An important reason why I will try a couple of times if I get a fatality on something that I think that I should have been able to grow. Sometimes one gets an individual plant with a death wish, where another one of the same species (or hybrid) grows under the same conditions. It's tempting to try to cheat death and rescue a waif and very satisfying if it works... but non-productive and dying plants take up space that can often be put to better use.

It's funny isn't it? How some work and some just don't? That was my situation with this, there is no reason why I shouldn't be able to grow it considering what I have but yet...... Similar story last year I bought a Masdevallia and a Dracula vampira. Of the two the vampira should have been more challenging, well the vampira is still going strong and the masdevallia is long gone.... Sometimes maybe the inexplicable challenge is what drives us with this hobby?

I'd love to hear your thoughts on sphag ES.

Try raising the temperature and lowering the light for Phals that aren't growing.

---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:51 PM ----------

What Dolly said. Don't ever completely soak the moss, except for orchids that use a lot of water, and it's during their growing season. Phals use much less water than most other orchids. With many Oncidiums, and well-rooted, actively growing Cattleyas, you can thoroughly soak the moss in summer. If healthy, they take up so much water it will dry rapidly. Not Phals.

Let the moss get quite dry for Phals. The top should be crisp. Run water quickly over the top of the moss, 1-2 seconds only. You will wet only the top. The water will diffuse through the moss, leaving it very slightly damp throughout, but still well aerated. Most people only need to water Phals in moss once every 7-10 days with this method, less when it's cooler in winter. If you goof up and soak the whole root ball, take the plant out of the pot and set the root ball in front of a fan to dry it.

Moss doesn't work well for Phals if you keep your house cool in the winter. Evaporative cooling makes the roots even cooler.

I run my phals pretty dry. Recently I repotted them and while the top was crispy, the root ball was damp. I don't tightly pack my moss and I always use clay pots which I believe breathe. My oncidiums I run damp, sometimes I water from the bottom or water them every day. I also have extensive air circulation which keeps things dried out. My two cents.

Next phal I get I'm gonna pot this way. Love clay pots with monopodials. I might just have to buy a phal just for this purpose :biggrin:

Oh geez ...... we have a real schiller killer in among us.

What part of the country are you growing in Nlamr?

Western New York......

Ok. From what I have read NYC has some of the best municipal water in the USA so probably not that. A quick look for your temperatures for the next week says quite cold at 40f at night a 65f in the day(West NYC). A sphagnum pot could easily stay wet for weeks at those temperatures and schilleriana need air to their roots.

If you are in a place like Buffalo NYC...50f days and 30f nights same issue.

Accidentally taking a cold draft overnight in either situation could easily be to much for a wet schilleriana to handle.

65ish is the minimum temp these plants technically like. As many others noted in the earlier posts, dry plants wont die(quickly) in the cold but wet will wither.

Another question. What point of the year did they appear to give up the first 3 times? Did the roots turn to mush, did the plant turn to mush? Was it gradual weakening or a fast decline?