Failing roots on new orchid. Should I switch to s/h now?

[AndreaK]

This arrived in bud on March 16th, from SVO. I wanted to wait on the repotting this plant because it is in bud again after flowering, but being curious I decided to peak and found decaying roots.
As you can see from the pictures, most of the roots were gray/brown and mushy. I have just been running r/o water through the pot weekly - no soaking. It was in small bark, with a small ball of sphag. in the center. I hope the few roots it does have will be enough to salvage the plant. It was actually 2 small plants in one pot - BONUS! It has a few tiny new roots (see pictures - use microscope lol) starting to grow. Does it appear to be placed in the proper location in the pot? I will wait for replies before I fill with PrimeAgra. Or should I plant one in bark and the other in s/h? Do you suggest soaking it in Physan due to the root rot?
Thanks for any input.

[Ray]

First of all, you now have two, separate plants; I suggest potting them up separately. As is, if one of them fails and starts to rot, it will threaten the other.

As you've already gone this far, go ahead and pot them up. I strongly suggest a root growth stimulant, and definitely invert plastic bags over the pots, and keep the, shady and warm and shady while they grow new roots.

[estación seca]

The plant you show is just beginning new roots. This is a good time to move to S/H.

Because the plant doesn't have many roots, it will be very important to follow Ray's advice. Treat with a kelp product. I like the KelpMax Ray sells. This promotes new root formation. I treat all plants I move to S/H with KelpMax.

Keep the humidity high. This will minimize water loss through the leaves at a time when the roots may not be able to provide as much water as is optimal.

Keep the plant very warm. Consider a heat mat. Warmer temperatures lead to faster new root growth.

[AndreaK]

Originally Posted by estación seca

The plant you show is just beginning new roots. This is a good time to move to S/H.

Because the plant doesn't have many roots, it will be very important to follow Ray's advice. Treat with a kelp product. I like the KelpMax Ray sells. This promotes new root formation. I treat all plants I move to S/H with KelpMax.

Keep the humidity high. This will minimize water loss through the leaves at a time when the roots may not be able to provide as much water as is optimal.

Keep the plant very warm. Consider a heat mat. Warmer temperatures lead to faster new root growth.

I planted both separately. One in s/h, the other in bark. I have them on a heat mat, the temps. are running around 80°F days and 65 nights. Humidity is ranging 67-89%. I have been alternating Kelpmax and msu fertilizer for all my plants in s/h, along with flushing the media every three days with r/o water.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by AndreaK

I have been alternating Kelpmax and msu fertilizer for all my plants in s/h, along with flushing the media every three days with r/o water.

How often are you applying the KelpMax and fertilizer, and at what concentrations?

I have found that KelpMax has three different "modes" of application, always using one tablespoon per gallon:

Plants with no roots: immerse them completely for 1-2 hours before potting them up. Water in with the same solution, plus two more times in a row, as watering is needed.

Plants with decent roots, being repotted: water in with the solution and two more times in a row, as watering is needed.

Routine use: absolutely no more than once every three weeks; I find monthly is adequate, and easy to remember.

For plants in S/H culture, I feel it is advantageous to water with very dilute fertilizer every time you irrigate the plant, and that each watering is a full flush, brought about by filling the pot rapidly to the top and letting it drain down to reservoir level.

[estación seca]

Ray, the amount you're recommending here is different than what is on the label. My KelpMax bottle says:

- for a dip, use 1 ounce / 2 Tablespoons / 28ml per gallon / 3.78 liters water;

- for a drench, 2 teaspoons / 10ml to 1 ounce per gallon;

- for foliar (not for orchids; they won't take it up), 2 teaspoons per gallon.

I've been using 2 teaspoons per gallon, the drench dose, because I don't just dip my unpotted plants; I soak them for a couple of hours.

Will I see better results if I go up from 2 teaspoons per gallon to a Tablespoon?

Did you pick 1 Tablespoon per gallon because it's easier to measure than 2 teaspoons?

[AndreaK]

I have been starting plants by soaking in kelpmax ( 1 Tablespoon per gallon) around 2 hours, then watering them in with the same solution. I did alternate fert./kelp every other watering for the first 4 waterings (at 3 day intervals), then I switched to fertilizer every watering (following instructions per msu container), with kelpmax once a month (1 TBS. per gallon). I will switch to using Kelpmax for the first potting and 2 subsequent waterings per your suggestions. As far as flushing goes: I take my plants to the sink and fully flush the pots several times through with running water (r/o), then I empty the reservoir completely and refilling it with fertilizer solution at the recommended dosage. I repotted multiple plants mid-March; I have not seen very much root growth beyond the tiny bumps they had starting at the base of the plants going into the new pot. One plant does have one 1/4 " root almost entering the pellets. They are on a heat mat,75°- 80° F days/ 65°-68°F nights. Humidity has been ranging 58% to 89%, with the higher number being more common. Light air circulation is provided by a ceiling fan and the open south facing windows. The plants are not in the window for now, they are shaded. Mold has been an issue with the plants, hence the frequent, thorough flushings. I used Pysan once to try and knock it down. The mold seems to be getting less noticeable each time a flush is due. Any further suggestions for encouraging successful transitioning is welcome, barring patience. I know that one; albeit I struggle applying it in my daily life!

[estación seca]

My observation with rootless back bulbs has been that the higher humidity and warmer, the better they root. I have seen a number make root nubs like that and stall. When I move them to an even warmer and much more humid place, they take off. Your daytime temperatures are just OK on the heat mat.

I now put sick-rooted things into a large hurricane jar or aquarium to keep the humidity up. My growing room is in the upper 80s F / +/-30C by day now, and things are rooting much better than when it was in the upper 70s F / +/-24C.

Also, this may be a hybrid that only roots at a certain time of its growth cycle. But the fact you have root nubs suggests to me it wants to grow if you can give it what it wants.