Your plants look pretty good to me so I think you're doing something right, just a couple of comments I have on this thread:
I think heatmats primarily stimulate root production by lifting cool root-zone temps back into the range the particular plant likes/needs. Bringing temps warmer than that optimal range probably won't do much if any good for the plant. Most wild Paphs live in somewhat shady locations with their roots in moist humus and litter, probably much cooler than the surrounding air. Ones from more exposed/bright locations (incl. multiflorals and some Parvis) might like slightly warmer roots, but all the info I've read and seen indicates these mostly grow in pockets of moist humus/litter over bedrock that should have more stable temps than the surrounding air, so I doubt cool root temps is an issue for most indoor-grown Paphs. I also doubt you'd see any problems putting your plants on a mat, but you probably don't need it.
Be careful using Pro-tekt, the primary idea behind it is to provide plants with a ready source of soluble silica but there's not much info out there on its efficacy, particularly in orchids. On top of that it's very alkaline (most orchids including most Paphs do best with neutral to acid irrigation water) and adds a lot of potassium, which some think is harmful in excess though this is pretty controversial. Sprinkling diatomaceous earth in pots may make some silica available to your plants without the other drawbacks of Protekt, plus DE helps keep molluscs in check.
You probably don't need KLN, Superthrive, AND seaweed/kelp since they're all doing pretty much the same thing, albeit maybe with varying efficacy for the price. If I had to choose between them I'd stick with the kelp since it's supposed to be more shelf-stable (the others break down fast if not stored cool and dark) and has a wider range of plant hormones. Probably no harm rotating them in moderation, though.
Lava rock should work well for many/most Paphs provided you water accordingly (ie frequently). Lava is pretty similar in properties to LECA, though LECA is considered a superior choice for s/h because it packs more evenly and probably wicks better. Sphagnum is likewise an excellent medium for Paphs with the right watering schedule, it's commonly used mixed with other media but I've seen some great Paphs grown in near-100% sphag.
Cutting the spike on the del x chamberlainianum (Paph Dellaina) is fine but unless a pod is growing then the vast majority of energy was already expended while the spike was growing and bud opening. Spikes/flowers just hanging out on a plant aren't sucking energy beyond the small amount of carbs the living cells need for maintenance; IMO cutting any spike while green more likely TAKES a small amount of energy from the plant by removing photosynthetic tissue and depriving the plant of opportunity to transport carbs and other nutrients back to the rest of the plant. In any case, if the flower is already fading then repotting shouldn't hasten that, Parvis fade/drop flowers pretty quickly anyway.
I haven't personally been keeping Paphs all that long (just a few years) and I definitely don't have all the answers, so you all please don't hesitate to disagree with or disregard anything I've written here!
I think part of the reason I'm so paranoid about these Paphs is because I've effectively killed every one I've ever had! 
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