The All-American are pricey, but I've heard good things about them. All I can say is to go with a well known company. When/if you need replacement parts, you'll be glad you did. I'm using my mother-in-law's from the 60's. Bought a new gasket for 8 bucks and I'm set.
As for size, I'd go big. 23 qt sounds good. Mine is only 8 quarts, which limits me to smaller flasks, which limits me to smaller batches of media. Still, I can fit 10 small baby food jars (two layers), or 4 big peanut butter jars. I'd say it's really just personal preference.
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