Phal wont spike HELP!
 

I was given a noid phal in may 2009. The owner had it for a while and it had not flowered in quite some time. After almost three years I am now getting a little anxious to see it bloom. The plant it self is in good condition the roots are enormous thicker than 1/4 inch and the whole plant is 18 inches wide. It very recently put out a new root above the bottom leaf of the plant. What can I do to get it to spike. I even did a temp drop for two weeks in the fall. Its by a west window with rice paper to diffuse and I have been weekly weakly fertilizing. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated...

Try upping the light a little more. I try to get a "tan" on my phals, meaning the leaves will have a slight reddish/purple tinge to them. I know I'm pushing the limits on the light if I see that reddish/purple tinge. Some of my other orchids, though, don't ever get that tinge, but their leaves are a bright apple green. That's also a good indicator (in my experience). Can you give us an idea of leaf color on your orchid? (Dark green leaves are usually an indicator that the light level is too low.)

If you're confident your light is good, another thing to try is watering with a solution of Epsom salt. Dissolve 1 tsp Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water (do not add additional fertilizer). Drench the pot and drain. Repeat immediately. (If you can capture the water for the repeat drenching, that is ok). Repeat one week later. Resume normal watering routine and give the plant ample light and try for a 10-20 degree temperature drop at night for 3-4 weeks. This has worked for me on a few of my phals that are a little stubborn when it comes to blooming.

Good luck!

leaves have some purple on them. i will try the salt thing. thanks for the suggestions. i so want to know what it looks like!!

I would try a temp drop (both day and night) of longer than two weeks in the fall. More like a month. I have also read that increasing the light during the temp. drop adds to the blooming success. I guess it imitates no leaves on the tree in winter. You could also try a bloom booster fertilizer (more middle number less nitrogen (1st number)) in late summer prior to the chill.

What is the formula of the fertilizer you're using, and how much do you use per gallon?

At what temperature are you growing it, and how low did it go at night during your chill treatment?

I agree with Grasshopper, increasing the light can often encourage spiking.

Don't use a high nitrogen fertilizer during blooming season. Too much nitrogen will cause a plant to grow leaves at the expense of spiking.

My guess is that your phal will eventually bloom. They usually do.

11-35-15 is the fert. 3/4 teaspoon per gallon. its in the house which is between 65-68 during the this time of year and went to 50-55 for the temp drop

A hybrid NOID almost three years yet no blooms...that seems odd...
your pictures show a healthy plant with robust roots...
I put my Phal in almost direct sunlight from 7am to 10am everyday (11am to 3pm will burn the leaves)... I checked your morning weather in NC...it will bring the cooler temps(daytime high is 70's the lowest is 55 this weekend...and it is getting warmer=unless you get one fluke frost weather then dont let the plant out)+ the bright light...might make it spike...

I read an article, of which I unfortunately don't have the link handy. But I think it said the temp drop needs to be for about 5 weeks to trigger spike, but if someone else remembers please correct me.

I think the problem might be the temperature drop requirement.

It is now pretty well established that they key to initiating phalaenopsis spikes is a 10°-15° drop in the average temperature for ten days to two weeks, NOT a 10°-15° day/night drop.

You certainly had the range and duration right, but you only dropped the average by about half of the required range.

For a more detailed explanation, including some experimental data, READ THIS.