Bending creeping/climbing plants to fit
 

How do you do it?

I have heard talk of bending plants with lengthy growth habits to fit inside pots or baskets, but I've never quite understood how it is achieved. My guess is that it's effected by training the new rhizome/bulbs into the desired direction similarly to how one might train a spike, but I've yet to see it demonstrated. I ask because I just bought a Coelogyne pandurata, which I suspect will be trouble in that regard (its 3 bulbs are already 5 and 6 cm apart and the new growth is aiming off in the same direction).

I will occasionally poke at the new growths on some of my Cattleyas to judge their pliability, but the verdict is always "too stiff" or "too fragile". I had minor success with a small Bulbophyllum, but that one rambled too much for such efforts to be worthwhile.

Hey there! The only bending/ training that I have done are with phals. When they are in spike I simply rotate them a quarter turn or so every few days (depending on how quickly the spike is growing). It can create more of a spiral as opposed to the longer pendulous spike (I tend to get some very long spikes so this helps me save space). I don't do it on all of them, just when I feel like experimenting or if I know I want a certain one and a certain location that's not going to accommodate a long spike.

I’ve got a few cattleyas that have growths sticking out, daring me to snap them. Mostly I just work around them. But some are pliable enough I put a skewer **in the pot, not in the growth** to keep it slightly more upright. Usually it happens when the growth isn’t fully matured yet. I’ve read somewhere that if the leaves don’t grow upright then it’s possible they’re not getting enough light. While this may be true for some, it probably depends on the species.

All sympodial (growing along a rhizome) orchids will eventually climb out of their pots. Some do it faster, if they have more space between pseudobulbs, Coelogynes especially do tend to ramble. You can somewhat guide them to make the pot fit them a bit longer. Shallow bulb pans help - large surface area relative to depth gives a larger "target".

I generally leave my phal spikes alone too, assuming they have necessary space. I occasionally rotate the couple that have room and let the rest grow naturally. Of course, this year I had a plant that started tipping over once the spike bloomed (despite being in a terracotta pot with ballast rocks), so I might have to be less lax in the future.

from what i have seen in bonsai and floral arranging videos (expert!) most training is done with aids while the plant is growing. like a plastic sheet bent around the pot to train the growth back up and in. or using a plastic spoon under a growth that is pointing down into the media.

these allow the plant to be bent by itself and slowly rather than at a human pace