Psychopsis Mendenhall 'Hildos' FCC/AOS (Butterfly x papilio) Advice
 

I just got a blooming size Psychopsis Mendenhall 'Hildos' FCC/AOS (Butterfly x papilio). It's in a loose bark media and the plant is loose in the pot. I tied it to a stake that was in the pot and that secured it. I'm new to this orchid and care recommendations online (surprise, Surprised) are mixed. What are your tips for success?

:bump:

I care for mine as an oncidium. South/east window water 2x a week. Potted in small bark. Never cut the flower stalk until it turns brown.

Carol's comment is spot on. Treat them like Oncidiums, but NOT Tolumnias. Years ago I was enchanted by both what were then called "Dancing Lady" orchids and Butterfly orchids. At the time (the early 1980s) both of these types of orchids were classed in the genus Oncidium. I tried a few of the Dancing Ladies, killed every last poor one, tried a few more, killed them all, and decided that anything called "Oncidium" was fated to die in my hands. So I never even tried a "Mule-Eared Oncidium". Then some brilliant, possibly bored, taxonomist decided that neither of the two I had admired were Oncidiums at all - rather, the Dancing Ladies were Tolumnia and the Butterflies were Psychopsis. Suddenly those coveted butterflies weren't a Genus of Sad Death in my hands so I bought one. It was amazing so I bought another. Both remained happy and alive so I bought several more. No Psychopsis has EVER died in my care! Ever.

My Psychopsis are in an East window, at the top of my grow window over the sink, where they get good morning light, and less the rest of the day. The humidity there hovers around 60% or higher. The papilio is a seedling and so I watch it like a hawk, watering whenever it looks thirsty; it's in small chunk bark and has three new growths which will force a repot. My others are all mature plants. One is in a clay pot so I keep an eye on how it's watered, but the others are both in plastic pots (and both are the same varietal as yours) and get watered when I can no longer remember the last time I watered them. All are in medium chunk bark. Of these two, one is in bloom and the second is just initiating what I hope is a new spike.

I've found Psychopsis to be a very tough, hardy plant. Don't let them get cold but they can tolerate cooler temperatures than can a Phal, but can also tolerate heat, though in heat you want to pay attention to providing good air movement. Also, mine seem to get a bit sluggish when the heat remains high. In my experience they like the humidity on the higher side but will tolerate it lower. Mine do very well in the same area as my Phals, but with stronger light. And don't let me forget to mention air movement!

With lower light you'll get somewhat larger flowers, while with higher light they'll be a bit smaller but perhaps a bit more frequent. And as Carol said, don't cut the stem after the flower fades because usually they keep popping out more buds after the open bloom fades.

Good luck!

Awesome insight! I've noticed that the roots don't turn green or only very slightly. Is that normal?

Nothing to worry about. The roots in the medium are absorbing plenty of moisture, as the roots you see are getting enough. If you're concerned, though, you could follow Carol's watering method and soak the whole pot in water for about 10 minutes. I'm not a soaker myself, but it's utterly harmless.

Wren, glad you mentioned getting mixed info. All I find on temp requirements is that it is a warm growing plant, but never find a max temp listed. Mine is inside currently in a west window. Our temps outside now are averaging about 95*. Is this too hot? Is it too late to take it from air conditioning into this heat?

They'll tolerate this kind of heat, but I wouldn't move it directly from A/C right into it. The temperature and condition change will shock the plant.

If you're concerned, move it outside to a shadier area and then gradually move it where you want it. I don't think full sun is a good idea, though. I use clay pots and I often soak to get the pots good and wet. That cools the roots, provides a tiny bit of humidity and doesn't immediately wick water from the media.

Thank you! Shocking is the last thing I want to do be ause it is blooming. Good to know for next year. I will write it in my log.

---------- Post added at 02:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 PM ----------

There is not a cooler spot out there. We are dying here! I just want it to be as beautiful as it has potential for. But next spring......thank you.

do you have the kind with the mottled leaves? It is possible that if you give them light up to the point where the mottling is prominent, then that might be the perfect light. I have one (a large one) and am trying this. They have thick leaves, and to me, this means "higher sun."

The only real difference you'll see based on lighting is that in lower light, roughly at the level a Phalaenopsis likes, you'll get larger and more colorful flowers, while at a higher light level you'll get smaller flowers. However, you still want to keep the plant in light less than what a Cattleya wants.

Good. Moved it to a little brighter window. I love this flower ever since someone compare it to a samurai in full gear. My husband has taught martial art for years.