Monn. Millenium Magic "WitchCraft" Whats going on?
 

Okay I have gotten this orchid from Kawamotto was in excellent condition, the spike is doing great something is up though with the leaves....Please tell me it is not sick!!!

Fungus. Increase light and air circulation immediately. I'm afraid those damaged leaves won't recover, but the rest of the plant will be protected by more light and air.

Okay front porch here we come then....

---------- Post added at 11:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 AM ----------

Will it spread to my others?

I am not sure, thanks God I do not have these problems, but with increasing number of my orchids you never know. I would ask someone who is more educated about this if you should actually cut these sick leaves, which is something I would probably do immediately, but not sure.

I cut disease leaves and sprayed w fungicide. Took out of moss placed in dry bark. Roots were slightly slightly squishy but firm still. Placed in bright bright sunny light. So heres praying!

I hope it will be just fine! Mine, when it came, dropped one leaf, I assume travel shock and also new location, it gets direct evening sun for some few hours, and it seems very happy, pushing 2 spikes now.

Mine came with 2 spikes one was broken and has slowly died since, my other is starting to turn green and is still happy other than the two leaves on it.

Here is praying, again... its leaned up against my hibiscus outside getting some fresh air and not to direct sun....

Monn. Millenium Magic belongs in and is a hybrid of the Catasetinae family (Cycnoches, Catasetums, Mormodes, and Clowesi) which tend to lose their leaves as the spike elongates which is what yours is doing.

The best info and culture advice comes from Fred Clark of Sunset Valley orchids.

Sunset Valley Orchids - Superior Hybrids for Orchid Enthusiasts

The most important advice is about watering your plant and what he states is really what needs to be followed.

Good Luck with yours, mine has yet to begin to set a spike yet, hoping it starts soon!

Judi

Mine came this way. But I went ahead and put him in lighter media. I think to humid now for spag. Potting. So hopefully roots will continue to perk up. They were still firm. Just slightly squishy.

---------- Post added at 03:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:46 PM ----------

And as always thanks for the amazing help!!

once the flowers are in full bloom, you will notice that the leaves will start to fall off the canes(your plant is now starting to drop leaves do not cut it for it still needs to produce food for the cane=its not yellowing because it is sick it is dropping leaves and yellowing of leaves is normal for this kind of plant)....do not freak it means the cycle has began....
when the leaves and flowers are all gone it means its time to start the rest period.
I usually unpot it and clean the roots and put it in a bright place and refrain from water and fertilizer until it grows a five inch plant that's when I pot it again and resume fertilizer/water regimen.

Okay thank you bud. this is a new world for me. You bareroot them for winter? I have a cat. Frilly doris on the way so will be good information 2 have!! I was not expecting leaf loss this early.

The new growth has a reasonable increase. It has reached the end of the growth cycle.
Now if the leaves start to turn yellow beginning with the basal leaves, this is quite a natural thing. Nothing to worry about. A little damage of visible spots (eventually old sucking points of Thrips), but no reason to get alarmed.
In a sunny area the growing season should last a little longer, and I guess this reaction was eventually triggered by transportation stress.
I am not a friend of growing Catasetums in sphagnum, but for Texas this may work well. I would have left it in sphagnum, but would now start to withdraw watering (but not stop completely).
The best time to take the plant out of the potting medium and to repot is early spring, when the new growth is starting.
With all this changes, one flower spike is enough for the plant. It should not tire out completely.
Don't forget to post a pic of the flowers please.

I just noticed my plant have also spiked today....we can compare flowers soon.

Can you ....explain your method a little more. again this winter rest. For my orchids has me a little Confused

Euplusia gave you a very informative advice.

Your medium is sphagnum moss and it is advisable for your grow zone.
Instead of watering every other day, you want to do it every 3 days until you have full blooms.
Then you water weekly.
when you have no more leaves and flowers are gone, unpot it and clean the roots and put it on a bright place maybe inside an empty pot.
do not at any point water or fertilize this while in rest. the canes are plump enough to support a new growing baby.
if you see that the old cane have produced a five inches plant= pot it in moss and start water and fertilizer.

For me...Now in autumn I have to check the weather report daily (exactly what Arthur Holst mentions in his great book) and do not water as thoroughly as I can do during the warm days of summer.
It is also important to reduce fertilizing and especially to reduce the amount of nitrogen. But a long autumn is important to build up strong bulbs.
I leave my plants potted during the winter rest and give a few drops of water to keep the roots alive.
In a good autumn and winter there is some green foliage on the Catasetums until January.
Remember that the dry season in Central Amazonia lasts 60 days, at its borders 90 days, and only plants from areas under the tropics, from Mexico and southern Brazil/Argentina keep a longer rest.

Awesome, thanks to everyone for the amazing advice.
I will definitely post pictures once it has bloomed, when I first got it the spike was a yellowish white color it is now starting to turn green. I am not sure how much longer it will be before blooming though. I quite honestly got this plant....3 weeks ago maybe....