Miltoniopsis and Brassia hybrid problem bloomers
 

:hello Sorry it's been a while! I hope you're all well!
I've been thinking long and hard recently about what to do with 2 'problem plants' of mine. A Brassia Chieftain (longissima x verruccosa) and a Miltoniopsis Anneville. The Brassia, in particular, grows like a weed. In fact, it might be a candidate for the amazing blob-tripling in size in a year. Mltps also growing well. But, you've guessed it, not a sign of a spike from either of them. I've used the same fertilizing and light regime with them as I have my Oncidiums (Sweet Sugar and ornithorhynchum-both blooming like crazy) I've tried a rest period for the Brassia, diurnal difference is good for both. But zilch. Nada. Not a whisper.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Kay
x

PS Sorry, realised I left out this crucial info. Mltps has bloomed in past (but not for me). Brassia I've raised from seedling, yet to bloom but now so huge it's bursting out of edge of 6" pot. 6 leads and counting...

I am very interested to see what others might have to say as I own a Brassia - my first one. So, I'm bumping you!

Simplest answer... Oncidium ornithorhyncum and Sweet Sugar are relatively tolerant of low/medium light for Oncidum alliance plants. What makes them happy might not be quite enough for the Brassia and Miltoniopsis.

I was thinking more light may be the answer too - I have a Mtssa that grows like a weed, but only seems to bloom after being outdoors for a while - I guess it just doesn't get enough light in my windows. I have it on front porch where it gets direct early morning light - in the summer it gets light in the morning for a few hours ...

I have a couple other Onc alliance inter-generics that also haven't been blooming indoors - think I might need to get them outside too ...

KayKay, based on what others are saying - what window do you have yours in - east, south, west, north? Are there trees blocking sun or other structures?

I'm not convinced it's the light that's the problem, but you are right, I guess it's the most usual cause. I have them growing outside on a South Western roof during the spring, summer and early autumn- just behind a cattleya (now in bloom, so indication of light there!) It's the time of year now that I can't give them much light, so will put them in a brighter place come the spring and see what happens there...
Has anyone got any other tips for getting these beautiful plants to flower?
Kay
x

According to the book "Understanding Orchids" Brassia require strong light in order to bloom. The book says they bloom in the spring. I see that you mention that the plant is growing very rapidly. It is possible to give a plant too much nitrogen in the period before blooming. It can force a plant to use it's energy to grow foliage rather than flowers. Possibly decreasing fertilizer and increasing the light as we get closer to spring may help. Just a suggestion. I don't grow Brassia myself. Good luck.

Can you add a grow light, if you can't find more light inside?

I have yet to get my Brassia to rebloom (just bought it last year) but it has a lot of new growth as well. I've got it in a west window where there is an abundance of direct light during the winter. It seems to be thoroughly enjoying it at the moment.

Howdy
Well from experiences of my own, I have Brassia Rex, also a problem bloomer for many, as well as Dego Winter Wonderland White Fairy -- both grow and grow and grow.

In a newsletter from Barfields at the orchid works, and intergeneric plug producer in Hawaii, he mentioned putting some poor bloomers outside to fend for themselves. He and I are both convinced that we were giving them too much ferilizer, and they were "lazy"

The Clark family over to Kalapana, also in Hawaii have mentioned before how certain ones, including the dego wwwf how they seem to want to be 55 pounds before blooming.

1 -- either they need to be larger to begin blooming, or 2--they are being overfed (despite the little you may be using).

I put my Brassia on a diet of fert from bud break of new growth for only two months--after that only water. It worked, and I got bloom spikes after waiitng ten years. I did everything that the other folks said -- more water, less water, more light, less light, more heat, less heat, but always about 200ppm N -- It was only when I dropped the N by half that I saw spikes on these bloomerpoopers.

I use 20-20-20 at 3/4 teasp per gallon for about 200ppm N

I cut it down to about a 1/4 tsp or so. No one else seems to mind the draw down, and all my oncidium intergenerics have bloomed with more spikes and buds.

My educated guess is that too much Nitrogen (N) being fed to them.

Cut your fert in half while keeping else the same, and I bet you get some spikes in their next cycle.

Take care
May all your orchids bloom like crazy

Rex
aka POLKA

oops
I realized I only answered half of the query

I also grow some Miltoniopsis here in East Texas (guess I like the challenges, eh?)

I have M. Rene Komoda that is very happy with me, as well as M. Wild West, and Yosemite Sam, and for these babies I have them in the greenhouse near the wet wall -- a contraption for evaporating moisture into the air to cool it down. So in summer, I can keep the air temp below 90, usually about 85 or so -- the closer the cooler. they are 60 at night in the winter.

I can say that my miltoniopsis are happiest when they are cooler, with lotsa air movement, and again starvation rations on the fertilizer. They also repsonded with more spikes, and longer spikes on the less N regimen.

Again, hope this helps
Take care
May all your orchids bloom like crazy

Rex
aka Polka