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  #11  
Old 05-26-2015, 05:51 PM
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Very nice! I love the colors. What a worth-while project! In a few years, you'll have plenty of new bulbs to sell. They certainly multiply well.
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2015, 09:19 AM
orchidsarefun orchidsarefun is offline
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I don't know what I am going to do with them ! Maybe I will try and sell a couple at our show in February - most people want to see something in bloom and that is something that I don't think I can accomplish. Maybe its worth a try....... I am impressed with how hardy they are in that they can go a couple of months in my basement over Winter. Next year I will plant a couple in a barrel on the deck as they do put on an impressive show.
As of today, there are 20 in bloom. This is another variation that I like:
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  #13  
Old 05-30-2015, 03:19 AM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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Really gorgeous!

Interesting about the shorter spikes outdoors, it makes sense of why they can often bend their spikes when grown indoors and taller, when growing more naturally they are shorter spikes and less likely to bend.
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  #14  
Old 10-08-2015, 11:42 AM
orchidsarefun orchidsarefun is offline
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another photo as of today. Bulbs are a good size, rock hard and green. Evidently they appreciate my old orchid bark and sphagnum mix that I loosely dug into the bed. I have lots more mix for next year as I have done some major repotting.
Almost time for me to dig them up and overwinter in my basement. I am amazed that a tropical plant like this can withstand a rest period of almost 6 months without any ill effects. First year hibernation, they were about 1/2 inch in diameter, now some look like about 5 plus inches in diameter.


meant to add - all bulbs appeared to have survived !
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  #15  
Old 10-08-2015, 01:10 PM
Mandy2705 Mandy2705 is offline
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Orchidsarefun, when do you dig them up to overwinter in your basement? I have just one and I always wondered when I should do that.
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  #16  
Old 10-08-2015, 01:26 PM
orchidsarefun orchidsarefun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandy2705 View Post
Orchidsarefun, when do you dig them up to overwinter in your basement? I have just one and I always wondered when I should do that.
I wait until the foliage yellows and dies back, usually when temps have been around 35f for a while. However if there is a prolonged freeze forecast - below 32f - I am going to have to dig them up and cut off the foliage. Indoors you usually have to stop watering to induce dormancy, outdoors its got to be the temps. We have occasional rain that keeps them going- in fact I think I only watered these 2 or 3 times this year.
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  #17  
Old 10-08-2015, 01:58 PM
Mandy2705 Mandy2705 is offline
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Ok that's wonderful it's getting really cold in CO now, by the end of Oct there will be freezing temps overnight.
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2015, 11:42 PM
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A lot of plants in the Amaryllis family produce some or all apomictic seed - that is, seed that has no genetic contribution from the pollen, producing plants identical to the mother plant. This might be the case with some of your plants.

Hippeastrum (florist's "Amaryllis") definitely do better with free root run. The old advice about keeping them confined in small pots is completely wrong. They perform much better if the roots aren't allowed to dry out and die, but in a cold-winter climate there is only so much indoor space. People with just one or a few might consider growing them in containers, then wintering mostly dry near a window in the basement. For best flowering the equator of the bulb should be at or above the soil line.
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2015, 12:13 AM
orchidsarefun orchidsarefun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca View Post
A lot of plants in the Amaryllis family produce some or all apomictic seed - that is, seed that has no genetic contribution from the pollen, producing plants identical to the mother plant. This might be the case with some of your plants.

Hippeastrum (florist's "Amaryllis") definitely do better with free root run. The old advice about keeping them confined in small pots is completely wrong. They perform much better if the roots aren't allowed to dry out and die, but in a cold-winter climate there is only so much indoor space. People with just one or a few might consider growing them in containers, then wintering mostly dry near a window in the basement. For best flowering the equator of the bulb should be at or above the soil line.
I will keep a couple of larger bulbs upstairs potted up and start watering when they exit dormancy - which they will do at those warmer temps. It takes about 5 weeks, well it did with the mother plant last year. I will then let them grow on and bloom, then transplant them outdoors next year. Issue is definitely space.

Last edited by orchidsarefun; 10-09-2015 at 08:13 AM..
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2015, 01:18 AM
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Also, if a clump/bulb in active growth is lifted and lain on its side in warm shade for 6 weeks, then repotted and watering resumed, it will bloom again in another 6 weeks. This way blooms can be produced at any time of the year.
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