disa flask - Orchid Board

disalover · #1 12-04-2014, 03:28 AM

I am thinking of buying a disa flask from a nursery in the cape that has 10-15 seedlings. I asked the what species they have. I would just like to know how I should deflask them. Happy gardening!

---------- Post added at 05:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:14 AM ----------

They have all the uniflora cultivars.

WhiteRabbit · #2 12-04-2014, 09:58 PM

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #3 12-04-2014, 11:33 PM

Do keep in mind that when I give you this piece of advice you are more than free to do whatever you desire after you receive it. However, I do have good intentions and I definitely do not mean any offense. I'm also not being condescending or arrogant - I'm telling you my honest opinion according to my personal growing experience.

With my disclaimer out of the way...

I recommend trying adult near blooming sized or blooming sized Disas instead of seedlings. Seedlings are very, very difficult to harden off right if you haven't had the experience.

You may be getting 10 - 15 plants per flask, but how good are you at getting even 10% of those freshly deflasked seedlings to survive? With Disas, it is very easy to experience a 100% loss in seedlings very, very fast, (in some cases within 1 week).

Since it will be your first attempt with Disas, I really, really, really, really mean it when I say, if you want to avoid heartbreak and disappointment, go find yourself someone willing to sell you a blooming sized Disa uniflora, you will be far happier with this choice - trust me on this one.

It may not be something anybody wants to hear for advice, but I'm telling you the truth, and I have nothing to gain from telling you otherwise.

I also highly recommend you try growing Cynorkis spp. or Stenoglottis spp. first, particularly Stenoglottis. You will experience firsthand, why I'm saying what I'm saying, because Cynorkis and Stenoglottis are very easy for most people who've had extensive experience in growing terrestrial orchids that form root tuberoids, but for those inexperienced with this group of orchids, there's plenty of room for mistakes that can cost you the plant. If you cannot grow these right, don't expect to grow Disas well right off the bat. If you do, great. If you don't, don't be surprised - you're not alone.

Again, if you want to go ahead and get the seedlings to give it a go, you're more than free to do so.

---------- Post added at 07:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:10 PM ----------

You know what, if you're able to find this orchid sold in South Africa, try growing Bonatea speciosa. The flowers are not spectacularly colored, but the flowers are good sized, and they are reported to be relatively easy to grow. They're fragrant. Not to mention, it could provide some valuable lessons in trying to grow orchids with root tuberoids.

Btw, I call them root tuberoids because the tuberoids, (the little potato-like storage organs), are made from the same type of cellular material as those of roots.

So, the challenge really is - don't rot the roots out, because if you do, there isn't a whole lot to salvage. Particularly with Disas.

Kinda also wanted to say, I started growing near blooming sized or blooming sized Disas, and have made far greater strides in learning about these orchids than I ever did in growing seedlings. Growing seedlings of Disas has been a major challenge for me, and I will have to say that it will be a while before I can say I got it down. This is coming from someone who has grown multiple species of Disas before. Something to think about...

disalover · #4 12-04-2014, 11:42 PM

O, I asked them if I can change the flask I reserved with one of there phragmipediums. I also asked duckitt nurseries where i can buy from them. They have blooming planta aat this moment.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #5 12-04-2014, 11:44 PM

You will not regret this move.

I believe you will be far happier. Which is why we're in the hobby to begin with.

Andrew · #6 12-04-2014, 11:49 PM

I pretty much do what is described on the Western Orchids site (scroll about 3/4 down the page). I don't use a lengthy, hardening off period and I find it's better to get the seedlings into 'mature plant' conditions as soon as possible or you start to run into problems with fungus. Sometimes this causes the leaves to collapse as seedlings in flask don't have a think cuticle layer on their leaves to prevent water loss but new, hardened leaves quickly grow from the centre of the rosettes and the plants barely skip a beat. I'd advise against letting any seedlings flower in their first year as they often don't have enough reserves left to produce a new tuber and you end up losing the plant.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #7 12-04-2014, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andrew

I pretty much do what is described on the Western Orchids site (scroll about 3/4 down the page). I don't use a lengthy, hardening off period and I find it's better to get the seedlings into 'mature plant' conditions as soon as possible or you start to run into problems with fungus. Sometimes this causes the leaves to collapse as seedlings in flask don't have a think cuticle layer on their leaves to prevent water loss but new, hardened leaves quickly grow from the centre of the rosettes and the plants barely skip a beat. I'd advise against letting any seedlings flower in their first year as they often don't have enough reserves left to produce a new tuber and you end up losing the plant.

I must not be doing it right, 'cause I've done that before, and all the Disa seedlings I've ever tried not only go flaccid, they just plain died.

I have photos too. Maybe if I provided the photos, some advice about how to make adjustments to culture would be greatly appreciated.