solid leaf vs mottled sunlight needs -OR- YOU'RE DOING IT ALL WRONG, COCONUTS!!!!!!!!

[DirtyCoconuts]

So Roberta, any that need more light?

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by DirtyCoconuts

So Roberta, any that need more light?

Sorry, for whatever reason didn't see when you posted your list. I think all of those are on the low-light side. And warm-growing. The ones that I grow brighter are P. insigne, P. villosum, and their hybrids, don't see any of those on your list.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Awesome. I tried to look up the heritages and didn’t see any of the ones you listed so I thought I was okay

Thanks for lending me your encyclopedia (brain)!

[Roberta]

You're so welcome! Looking at them all again... maybe even a pattern... now I wonder if there are even any warmer-growing Paphs that want anything more than shade. (The ones for which I give more light tolerate cooler temps, don't know if they require it)

[Fairorchids]

In your group, I wouldn't describe Paph glaucophyllum as mottled leaf type. It is a sequential bloomer from Indonesia, usually a somewhat floppy leaved species.

You can grow most Paphs together, but if you have the option of catering to the preferences of each sub-group, then:

The strapleafed (green leaves) types are fine with intermediate to intermediate/cool temps, and low light (same as Phals). This covers insigne, villosum, spicerianum group and all the way through to the modern complex hybrids (bulldog types). This group needs cool nights (10-15 deg below day time) for 3 weeks in late Sept/early Oct to set buds, which will bloom in February/March. Should never go dry.

The mottled leaf (Maudiae types) would like same level of light, but prefer it slightly warmer. Non-seasonal bloomers, hybrids can bloom at any time of the year. Should never go dry.

Brachypetalums (niveum, bellatulum, concolor, etc.) want same conditions as the mottled leaf types. These should just dry out between waterings.

I can't grow Parvisepalums, so won't cover those here.

Sequential bloomers (primulinum, chamberlainianum, etc.): Same as mottled types.

Multiflorals: Higher light (similar to Cattleyas), untill you see the bud. Then move to lower light similar to other Paphs. Slightly warmer (like mottled leaf types). Should never go dry.

Phrags: Higher light (similar to Cattleyas). There are two groups:

Phrag. caudatum, longifolium & sargentianum (and their hybrids) want LOTS of water, but should not stand in water.

All others: I grow these standing in water about 1.1/2-2" deep. I drill holes in the pots about half way up, so there is some air movement through the pot.

I have a handout (when I speak on 'Slippers'), which outlines all of the variations.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Kim. I bow to you. :bow: that was a “full on” orchid lecture in a post and I immediately printed that sheet out to laminate!!

You just moved me several years into the paph zone!!

---------- Post added at 11:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 AM ----------

So, Kim, I clearly had them mixed up, P glaucophyllum is with the strap leaf types.

Is there a distinction between the thin straps and the thick? Or is that jus about maturity and size?

[Dorchid]

Great info!

[Fairorchids]

When you say thin & thick, do you mean narrow & wide?

Plants in sub-genera Paphiopedilum, Cochlopetalum & most Polyanthas all have non-mottled leaves. Yet, their preferred temp ranges & light levels differ slightly. Watering schedules are identical though.

The truly thick leaves are in the Brachypetalum group, which contains the plants that are OK going down to dry before watering again.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Yes, narrow vs wide. None are thick like a succulent.
Such a wealth of knowledge thanks!