Cypripedium tibeticum - Page 2 - Orchid Board

trdyl · #11 03-25-2010, 01:10 PM

I really like this Cyp.

LinhT · #12 03-25-2010, 01:15 PM

Thanks for the post. Would you be able to give me some detailed culture for how you plan on growing this?

slipperfreak · #13 03-25-2010, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinhT

Thanks for the post. Would you be able to give me some detailed culture for how you plan on growing this?

Of course!

I don't plan on growing it outside. Cyp tibeticum CAN be grown outside here, but it needs some winter protection. Because our winters can be really nasty, I don't want to risk losing it. If this is a froschii, its hardiness is probably even less guaranteed.

It will be grown in a pot. It's currently in a 4.5" pot, but will need to be moved to a larger container - Cyps like lots of space (particularly in terms of pot width as the roots grow horizontally). I will not repot it for at least a year though (probably 2 years, depending on growth rate), as it was potted recently and disturbing the roots before they get a chance to establish will weaken the plant.

It is in a very sandy mix with large chunks of perlite and LECA added. This mix is decent, though it could be a bit grittier. This type of Cyp is quite easy to rot, and the potting mix should be mostly inert. I will be watering it very carefully and maintaining good air movement around the plant. The plant is kept in fairly bright light (as for Cattleyas), not receiving direct sun during the afternoon. In the summer the pot will be placed outside in dappled shade. The plant will be fertilized at 1/4 strength every two weeks to start - I may increase the concentration to half strength. Fertilization will end when the leaves start to yellow. Once the leaves have died back the plant will be placed in the refrigerator for 3-4 months for dormancy. During that time the soil will be kept just barely damp. Next spring the plant will be removed from the fridge and watered carefully. Once the leaves start to unfurl fertilization will be resumed.

This year I will try to keep the plant green as long as possible - I don't want it going dormant in July or August. If it goes dormant in October or November it will be perfect. Hopefully I can keep it in a growth cycle where it will flower every March - that way I get Cyp flowers two months before the season starts! I may actually try to get it to flower in time for our show next February. As long as the plant gets at least 3 months dormancy, it will come up and flower every year.

Tindomul · #14 03-25-2010, 02:41 PM

Wonderful info!! Joe I may get into these now thanks to you!

slipperfreak · #15 03-25-2010, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tindomul

Wonderful info!! Joe I may get into these now thanks to you!

Oh no! I've worsened your orchid addiction!

I'm an enabler.

They make extraordinary plants, whether in pots or in the garden. Pot culture is definitely trickier than garden cultivation though. They need a lot of attention. In the case of many of the Chinese species, it's like growing a tiny seedling for the plant's entire life. But worth it!

There are easier species to start out with, like reginae and parviflorum. The two keys to growing are good drainage (but consistent moisture) and proper dormancy. That, and keep them out of hot afternoon sun.

Tindomul · #16 03-26-2010, 12:00 PM

I think I would like to try these very much. Thanks for the advice Joe!!

LinhT · #17 03-29-2010, 05:36 PM

Joe, what exactly is in the mix? Is it just perlite/LECA/sand? Thanks for all the info.

slipperfreak · #18 03-29-2010, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinhT

Joe, what exactly is in the mix? Is it just perlite/LECA/sand? Thanks for all the info.

I didn't make the mix so I can't say for sure what is in it, but I would guess about 50% loam or compost, 30% sand, 10% perlite, and 10% LECA. The mix is fairly heavy and I have to be very careful with watering. But it is definitely a lot better draining than your average potting soil or garden soil (both of which would be unacceptable for growing Cyps in pots). But I would have cut the compost down to 30% and had the rest inorganic (and that's what I'll repot it in when the time comes).

LinhT · #19 03-30-2010, 12:08 PM

Thanks, Joe!

slipperfreak · #20 04-01-2010, 03:32 PM

So Pascal from Phytesia (where this plant originally came from) has confirmed that this is a froschii. Cyp froschii is a rare ecotype of tibeticum that is very similar but has taller stems and lighter colored flowers. I ahd guessed this at first as I allude to in the original post, but doubted it mostly because of the rarity of froschii. Needless to say I'm quite excited to have this species in my collection and can't wait to see what it does next year. What's funny is that I was hesitant to buy this plant, and I would've really missed out if I hadn't!

Thanks to everyone for the comments!