Phrag fischeri crown rot. - Page 3 - Orchid Board

slipperfreak · #21 03-16-2010, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinhT

I guess I'm not sure about regular pumice but the Kanuma, Akadama and Huga pumice are acidic media, according to the bonsai vendor that I purchased the pumice from. At least that's what I was told. So if fischeri is calcio-lo-whatever, it would probably be a good candidate to try in rockwool, right? Since rockwool is high in Ca and Mg...

Yep I think fischeri would be a great candidate for rockwool culture.

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #22 03-16-2010, 09:22 PM

To answer Tracy's question, I water the plant whenever it dries out. I don't put it in a saucer.

I don't know what the pH of pumice is, I can find out...

So, what you're telling me is that Phrag fischeri grows on limestone rocks?!

Well, hell! I've got a bag of limestone! I can change it out to that media in no time!

I know it works on Paph niveum, so I don't see why it wouldn't work for Phrag fischeri!

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #23 03-16-2010, 09:32 PM

While I didn't find the numerical values for the pH of pumice, it is not acidic.

slipperfreak · #24 03-16-2010, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

To answer Tracy's question, I water the plant whenever it dries out. I don't put it in a saucer.

I don't know what the pH of pumice is, I can find out...

So, what you're telling me is that Phrag fischeri grows on limestone rocks?!

Well, hell! I've got a bag of limestone! I can change it out to that media in no time!

I know it works on Paph niveum, so I don't see why it wouldn't work for Phrag fischeri!

You can certainly try that.

It also likes to be grown wet, so I would recommend growing it in a saucer of water if you can't keep it constantly wet.

jeffg · #25 03-16-2010, 11:23 PM

I have a Don Wimber that started doing the same thing. Brown lines of rot in the leaves. Like you I pulled them and tried to get all of it out. A commercial Phrag grower I consulted said he sprays them with Lysol. I wasn't too sure about this until I visited his set up, and low and behold, there were cans of Lysol in the GH's! So I tried it and, so far, it has stopped the spread and the plant is coming back. He also said it occurs from water that sits down in the leaves.

Per the pH, I also learned from this guy that he adds a teaspoon of lime powder (not pellets) to each plant every 3 months and only fertilizes with Peter's Cal/Mag by foliar application once the leaves are wet - none in the media. Since he's been doing this 40 years and has some truly amazing plants, I've taken to try it with mine. So far, so good.

slipperfreak · #26 03-16-2010, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffg

Per the pH, I also learned from this guy that he adds a teaspoon of lime powder (not pellets) to each plant every 3 months and only fertilizes with Peter's Cal/Mag by foliar application once the leaves are wet - none in the media. Since he's been doing this 40 years and has some truly amazing plants, I've taken to try it with mine. So far, so good.

He probably does this because he uses pure water (RO, distilled, rain) which contains no Ca or Mg. All plants require Ca and Mg to grow, even if they aren't calcicoles.

The foliar sprays are probably to avoid burning the roots. It is disputed how effective foliar sprays are, but some people do swear by it.

Interesting to hear about his methods!

King_of_orchid_growing:) · #27 03-17-2010, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffg

I have a Don Wimber that started doing the same thing. Brown lines of rot in the leaves. Like you I pulled them and tried to get all of it out. A commercial Phrag grower I consulted said he sprays them with Lysol. I wasn't too sure about this until I visited his set up, and low and behold, there were cans of Lysol in the GH's! So I tried it and, so far, it has stopped the spread and the plant is coming back. He also said it occurs from water that sits down in the leaves.

I'll have to try out the Lysol thing.

Thanks!