How do I save my Dendrobium

[Nexogen]

The image of the plant and the keikis is not very well seen.
If you cut the pieces containing keikis (1cm left and right from cane) and wrap them with shpagnum mos and plant (make sure you do not damage those new roots) them in the same pot you will get a plant that in future years will bloom.
However, I think you should do this when you have roots at least 1".

[estación seca]

It's badly underwatered, and the first growths died as a result. There is a good chance it will make more growths from the base.

Yamamoto Dendrobiums once had care of nobile type Dens on their Web site. It's not hard once you learn it. Not all orchids should dry out. This kind needs to be wet in summer and dryish in winter.

Edit June 15 2020:
Yamamoto Dendrobiums in Japan hybridizes and produces a great number of these plants. Their Web site formerly had excellent growing information for hobbyists. Unfortunately it is no longer there. You can still look at the varieties they grow, and maybe see one very similar to yours.

I saved the page, and summarized it in a post in this thread:
Uncertain if Dendrobium is still alive

Yamamoto now has a page showing how to force Dendrobium nobile for Christmas flowering in Japan's climate. There is a lot to learn from that page, but it is intended for growers who can artificially heat and cool their greenhouses during off seasons. Note they use coconut husk for growing medium, which many orchidists would say retains too much water for orchids. For many orchids that is correct, but this is a very thirsty orchid.

[fairladyorchid]

That is good to know, and I will look up those instructions, thank you!

[Roberta]

With some water, I think you may be amazed at how this plant "revives". As long as the shriveled growths are still green, they're alive... and this is the time of year when they put out new growth (and new roots). Water freely. Do go light on the ferilizer - too much nitrogen and you grow keikis (baby plants) instead of flowers. But water, definitely.

I was taught early in my orchid growing "career" that nobile-type Dendrobiums needed to be dry from Halloween to Valentine's Day. Following that advice, I killed several plants - the people who came up with that scheme did not live in southern California where it can be blazing hot and very dry during the winter (In nature they may not get rain but they get dew... not the case in most of southern California, even near the coast) So it might need less water in winter, but still needs some.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Pot looks as if it may be too big for the amount of roots that the plant has. I don't know how badly damaged the root system is or how big it is now, but I would be cautious with the watering schedule. If you water when the potting media goes dry, it will most likely resume a good amount of turgidity on its own. If the growing area you have the plant in is at about 50 - 60% humidity, it will be ok. I would be more concerned about getting the lighting correct right now. But during the beginning of fall, the plant's dormancy would have to be observed. During dormancy, the plant should be watered very sparingly or the plant can rot to death.

[fairladyorchid]

You are all wonderful, thank you. I am watering it now and will increase watering. We are getting hot so I will be sure to water every other day.

[Fairorchids]

I appreciate that local climate conditions vary, but it helps to understand the conditions where the plant comes from = decideous mountain forests:

Spring and summer = plenty of rain, but mottled light. They can tolerate high light, if you water enough.

Fall: Much brighter as leaves come off the trees. It is much drier.

Winter: Quite cool and still bright. Virtually no rain.

In 'captivity':
Fertilize (light dose) regularly during spring & summer. STOP on Sept 15.
Significantly reduce watering on Oct 15 (till buds form). If canes start to shrivel, it is OK to water a little.

Modify as needed for local conditions, but do not be surprised if it does not flower if you can't observe the last two instructions.

[fairladyorchid]

Yes, that helps a great deal. I think I can pretty easily reconstruct those conditions. Even more so after the move. Thank you!

[Roberta]

One important factor in blooming that IS easy to achieve in southern California (outdoors) is a winter chill - they need that. Since we are pretty much frost-free, they can winter outdoors with no problem. When cold, all orchids need to be kept drier. So... water is easy to add when needed, heat is harder to add but isn't needed for these. An "easy" orchid is one that you have the conditions for without a lot of effort, a "hard" one is one for which one has to go to a lot of trouble and expense.... the orchids that go into those two categories vary according to one's location and climate.

[Nexogen]

With a keiki you have a great chance of having a plant, instead, if the cane base is dry-destroyed, you will wait indefinitely until there is a new growth ...
You can cut the Keiki side and leave the rest of the plant in the pot, it's the same thing, at least you have a chance.