Root question

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

The issue with pot size to root mass is due to moisture availability as well as where that moisture becomes concentrated at. The larger the pot, the more likely that the potting media in the center of the pot is where it stays the wettest the longest, especially when air circulation in the pot does not allow for that moisture towards the center of the pot to dry out after a period of time. That is when the odds of root rot start increasing. This is why in the '70's and 80's orchid growers used to put broken pieces of clay pots in the center of the functional pot, and lay the orchid's roots over the pile of clay shards, then put potting media around the roots.

In the wild, those roots are fully exposed to the air. The reason why they don't shrivel up and dry out in the wild is because they grow in areas where humidity is pretty high. It is very uncomfortable to live long term where tropical Phals naturally grow, partially because of the heat during the warm season, but also partially because of the humidity. While they may grow in areas where it is quite wet, the roots themselves do not experience sopping wet conditions at all times because of the large amount of exposure to the air they get. There is a balance between air and moisture that does not rot the roots out, but allows enough moisture to be absorbed by the Phal. In cultivation, it is up to the grower to find that happy balance.

[Mountaineer370]

Welcome to the Orchid Board!

Many orchids, including phals, do have a tendency to develop aerial roots. I wouldn't advise trying to bury them, as you may break them off accidentally, or end up with potting medium up so high that it's overflowing the pot and/or coming in contact with the lowest leaves.

As far as the leaning, that's another thing that phals have a tendency to do. One advantage in nature is that it lessens the likelihood of water standing in the crown. It's personal preference, but when I repot, I do try to straighten them, and even have a couple staked to help them stay more upright in the pot, but that's primarily because they're in plastic pots, and I'm trying to minimize the tipping-over risk. Well, that plus a limited growing space that means everyone has to be close together and stand up straight to take up the least amount of room.

I don't mean to pile on about the ice cubes, but it's true that ice is not something natural to orchids. My very first orchid came with instructions to water with ice, and I did that for a while only because I didn't know any better. If you must do it, be especially careful not to let them come into direct contact with the leaves or the roots; but it seems like it would be just as easy to mix up your orchid food and keep it in a container at room temperature.

[bil]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

The issue with pot size to root mass is due to moisture availability as well as where that moisture becomes concentrated at. The larger the pot, the more likely that the potting media in the center of the pot is where it stays the wettest the longest, especially when air circulation in the pot does not allow for that moisture towards the center of the pot to dry out after a period of time. That is when the odds of root rot start increasing.

This is absolutely right. The problem comes when people say "You mustn't use a pot that is too big" without clarifying a couple of points. It isn't the diameter of the pot that matters, it is the depth. It is OK to increase the diameter of the pot as much as you like in order to accommodate the roots, as long as you don't increase the depth.
It is all about air penetrating the medium. In a pot, it can't get in thru the sides or the bottom, or thru the bottom so it only really enters thru the top.
A coarse bark, 2" or so is fine for phals and cattleyas, and providing you sieve it to remove the fines, you can keep them in 14" pots that are very deep. However that requires a lot of bark and fertiliser and water and time spent watering.
When you pot a fine rooted epiphylllum, and have to drop to fine bark, then the depth of the medium has to drop as air penetrates small bark slower. So, I never go above 4 inches, and I get very good results from den phals, for example in sieved fine bark, just 2" deep. In a 12" diam pot, when repotted, they had a huge mat of roots.
As soon as you mix in moss, or perlite etc, those items fill up the spaces between the bark chunks, and destroy its greatest virtue that it transfers air rapidly, and you can't overwater it.
Now you can grow phals in almost anything, but if you do grow them in moss, be aware that you really have to know what you are doing.

---------- Post added at 04:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:13 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Mountaineer370

One advantage in nature is that it lessens the likelihood of water standing in the crown.

Seriously. Try it. Fill the crown with ambient temp water in the morning when you water, and tell me how long it stays in there.

---------- Post added at 04:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Mountaineer370

it seems like it would be just as easy to mix up your orchid food and keep it in a container at room temperature.

If you do, it pays to keep it in a light proof container, or else algae will grow in there.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Originally Posted by Cheddarbob14

I would consider repotting more based off of the size of the pot it's currently in. I'm assuming there are drainage holes at the bottom, are there any on the sides? I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but pretty sure orchids in general, would prefer a little less room, vs too much room. You could run into issues with rot if the bark you have it potted in doesn't dry out fast enough. A lot of what you will learn with orchids over time is greatly affected by your growing conditions, i.e. indoors or outdoors, humidity, light, etc.. You have come to the right place for orchid knowledge, there's loads of it here.
Check out the potting/repotting thread located about 6 tabs down from the beginners thread. I'm still relatively new to orchids myself but have learned a ton in my short time here. Welcome to the orchid board!

I agree, the pot is way too big (pots that are too large encourage wet medium, which often leads to root rot and loss of the plant).

Try an un-glazed terracotta pot, about 1/4 the surface area of the pot in your photo. Most of my Phals are in these. The un-glazed ceramic is porous and helps wick excess water away from the roots (wicking is beneficial, helps minimize root rot). For Phals, my pots are nearly all width = height, or close to it.

Count me in with the anti-ice cube crowd. In 35 years of orchid growing, I have never seen a tropical orchid that benefited from cold-shocking the roots.

[bil]

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

I agree, the pot is way too big (pots that are too large encourage wet medium, which often leads to root rot and loss of the plant).

That statement is meaningless, unless the type of medium is referenced. With coarse sieved bark, the pot can be 14 inches in diameter and 14" deep, and you can't overwater it. Been there, done that.
Switch to a finer medium, and the depth tolerance drops like a stone. 4" deep fine sieved bark is as deep as I dare go, and as for moss..... well, I only use pure moss in baskets, where it dries out from all sides, or in very specialist applications.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Originally Posted by bil

That statement is meaningless, unless the type of medium is referenced. With coarse sieved bark, the pot can be 14 inches in diameter and 14" deep, and you can't overwater it. Been there, done that.
Switch to a finer medium, and the depth tolerance drops like a stone. 4" deep fine sieved bark is as deep as I dare go, and as for moss..... well, I only use pure moss in baskets, where it dries out from all sides, or in very specialist applications.

bil:

I will state it for you this way. For the type of medium shown in the photo, the pot is way too big. Unless you have a vast outdoor growing area, or a greenhouse, or similar large space, it makes no sense to have 14 inch diameter pots (1 inch deep or 14 inches deep). Yes, a 14 inch wide x 14 inch deep pot of coarse sieved bark will stay too wet in the middle (unless you are in an arid or semi-arid climate, like Spain). It is far easier to maintain a plant of the size shown in a pot 1/4 of the width shown (a standard 4 to 6 inch diameter pot). Although I recommend terracotta pots because they dry faster, some people like plastic, use whatever works.

I get that you like big wide flat pots. I have understood that this is your opinion for more than 2 years. This mode of growing is not practical for the vast majority of growers that I know personally, or that I have met online.

You are free to offer your advice. I don't state that your advice is meaningless. My advice is not meaningless either.

[bil]

I am not saying your advice is meaningless. What I am saying is that a statement on pot sizes is meaningless unless it is qualified by depth and type of media.

I get it that people can't all house big pots, but phals aren't small plants.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Originally Posted by bil

I am not saying your advice is meaningless. What I am saying is that a statement on pot sizes is meaningless unless it is qualified by depth and type of media.

In the context of this post, the statement is not meaningless. Qualifying information: you can see the size of the pot, and the medium, in the original post. Diameter too big relative to plant size, regardless of depth.

Originally Posted by bil

I get it that people can't all house big pots, but phals aren't small plants.

That varies greatly depending on the Phalaenopsis hybrid, or species. Some are small. The plant in the photo is also small. Even if it becomes larger later in life, at this point in it's life, it is too small for the pot shown.

[bil]

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

Diameter too big relative to plant size, regardless of depth.

and again, I appreciate that diameter has relevance to the available space, but diameter has no relevance to the plant.

Unless of course you can show me how?

For example, the plant in question.

6" diam 6" deep
or
6" diam 8" deep

Both the same risk of root rot, or does depth have relevance after all?

Which has the higher risk of root rot?

6" diam 6" deep
or
16" diam 3" deep ??

[Orchid Whisperer]

Originally Posted by bil

and again, I appreciate that diameter has relevance to the available space, but diameter has no relevance to the plant.

Unless of course you can show me how?

For example, the plant in question.

6" diam 6" deep
or
6" diam 8" deep

Both the same risk of root rot, or does depth have relevance after all?

Which has the higher risk of root rot?

6" diam 6" deep
or
16" diam 3" deep ??

You are heading down a rabbit hole that has no relevance to the original post, or my reply to the OP. Have fun.