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01-22-2015, 01:30 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucker85
Commercial growers use Styrofoam peanuts to accomplish the same thing. What kind of 'false bottom' are you planning to put in?
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This is the first, I bought one from the shop, as if it didn't work I didn't want to buy any more. I drilled drainage holes all round the bottom, and I found that if you cut the end off a terracotta brick that's 4 cm thick, a normal 30 cm plant pot saucer fits perfectly, and I can of course melt drainage holes thru that.
I am then left with a 9 cm deep container for planting in, which should be ideal. Do you think I need side holes for ventilation as the planting medium will only be about 8cm deep?
Plus, I can screw the saucer to the brick to make the planting more stable.
I thought that a layer of styrofoam pellets would accumulate debris, and be too lightweight.
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Post Thanks / Like - 5 Likes
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01-22-2015, 01:47 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Location: Plantation, Florida
Age: 78
Posts: 5,994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bil
This is the first, I bought one from the shop, as if it didn't work I didn't want to buy any more. I drilled drainage holes all round the bottom, and I found that if you cut the end off a terracotta brick that's 4 cm thick, a normal 30 cm plant pot saucer fits perfectly, and I can of course melt drainage holes thru that.
I am then left with a 9 cm deep container for planting in, which should be ideal. Do you think I need side holes for ventilation as the planting medium will only be about 8cm deep?
Plus, I can screw the saucer to the brick to make the planting more stable.
I thought that a layer of styrofoam pellets would accumulate debris, and be too lightweight.
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I really like the saucer idea. I never would have thought of that but it's a very inventive solution to the problem. Good job.
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Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
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01-22-2015, 03:28 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucker85
I really like the saucer idea. I never would have thought of that but it's a very inventive solution to the problem. Good job.
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Thanks. More coincidence, in that it was just there, rather than creative genius, I'm afraid.
---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by kindrag23
I don't blame you for buying it. I bought 2 and we have had 70+ degree weather for 3 days now its pouring rain and 30*. I broke my promise too...no more orchids until spring...oops
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The lesson always is, if you don't buy it and go back, don't expect it to be there.
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Post Thanks / Like - 4 Likes
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01-25-2015, 01:08 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
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We all try things out and if they work, fine. If not, we try something else.
What was wrong with the first repot you made? When you repot a Cym. there should be no more than 2" from the division to the sides of the pot. In my opinion, your new pot is the wrong size for a Cym. which has a very aggressive root system. I grow all my plants in standard 6"W x 7"H (1 gal) or 8"W x 8.5"H (2gal) plastic pots plus a few 3-gal for the very large specimen show standards. All Asian species are potted in tall, narrow pots. The primary differences are that all these pots have straight sides to allow for the heavy root mass a Cym. will develop. I use 14" terracotta cache pots with 3 - 3" pots upside down in the bottom to bring the level of the 3-gal plastic pot level to the top of the cache pot for the patio plants.
If you plant directly into a decorative terracotta pot, chances are you will have to break the pot down the road to remove the plant when it outgrows the pot. In any case I do not see the need for the saucer or for extra holes for drainage if you still want to plant directly into the new pot. After all your work on this remember: "The only reason we put orchids in pots is to keep them from falling over." In nature almost all are epiphytes , happily living on trees!
Your pot would be fine for a small Catt alliance orchid.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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01-26-2015, 04:03 AM
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Join Date: May 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cym Ladye
We all try things out and if they work, fine. If not, we try something else.
What was wrong with the first repot you made? When you repot a Cym. there should be no more than 2" from the division to the sides of the pot. In my opinion, your new pot is the wrong size for a Cym. which has a very aggressive root system. I grow all my plants in standard 6"W x 7"H (1 gal) or 8"W x 8.5"H (2gal) plastic pots plus a few 3-gal for the very large specimen show standards. All Asian species are potted in tall, narrow pots. The primary differences are that all these pots have straight sides to allow for the heavy root mass a Cym. will develop. I use 14" terracotta cache pots with 3 - 3" pots upside down in the bottom to bring the level of the 3-gal plastic pot level to the top of the cache pot for the patio plants.
If you plant directly into a decorative terracotta pot, chances are you will have to break the pot down the road to remove the plant when it outgrows the pot. In any case I do not see the need for the saucer or for extra holes for drainage if you still want to plant directly into the new pot. After all your work on this remember: "The only reason we put orchids in pots is to keep them from falling over." In nature almost all are epiphytes , happily living on trees!
Your pot would be fine for a small Catt alliance orchid.
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Slight misunderstanding, I fear. I would never put Cymbidia in a bowl like that. As you say, they have a way bigger root mass and aren't epiphytic, and I put them in more cylindrical pots.
These black bowls are plastic, and are more for plants where a more shallow medium is desired.
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