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  #11  
Old 03-13-2014, 10:49 AM
gardengirl13 gardengirl13 is offline
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My bllra is in a sunny western window. I was worried it was too bright sun for him since he'd get sun from about 1:30 to 5:00 (well towards the end of the day it'd be weaker due to the trees and time of year) His leaves felt warmish, but never hot. So he's now in the same window but on the southern side which gets some sun, but not as direct. I water him like you, once he's nearly dried out. I also mist him twice a week as well. In winter our humidity is not great, but we run humidifiers all the time. Aside from really cold days where it can get down to about 15-20% it normally runs about 35%. Which isn't great I know, but that's winter in the NE for you sadly. I had humidity trays in the other house, but need to buy smaller ones for the window sills here. But he is sitting above the kitchen sink, so he get slightly more there.

Also if this window is getting this much sun, it might be more west south west, I'm going to have to check on this. But in summer those windows will get less sun due to leaves on the trees. I won't know until then. Maybe I'll water him a bit more now to see if I can get a spike, if not in the next couple weeks I'll slow it down to normal again so he doesn't get too soggy.
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2014, 11:20 AM
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Fairorchids Fairorchids is offline
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This is actually a choice/balancing act, which everyone has to work out on their own. Aside from the time & possible success rate in raising smaller plants, there is a question of flower quality.

If it is a meristem, you know what you will get eventually (unless you kill the plant).

If it is a seedling, you might spend 2-8 years raising it (depending upon genus), only to find out that the flower is not worth looking at.

As to a plant group having been picked over, most resellers do not have the time to do this. They need to turn their inventory, otherwise they are not making any money. While other hobbyists might have been there before you, their idea of what is desirable probably varies from yours. If you see something in bloom, and you like it - just buy it.

Alternatively, you would have to buy 5-10 seedlings of whatever tickles your fancy, bloom them out, and keep only the 1 or 2 that you really like. If you consider the cost of this, you quickly realize that the most economical approach is buying plants in bloom (or divisions of something known).

Personally I do both (and that's why I am running out of room). In seedling groups purchased at reasonable prices, there are usually both dogs and absolutely stunning flowers - but sometimes none that I want to keep. On the other hand, breeding quality Paphs can be anywhere from $50 to 5,000 per plant.
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2014, 11:21 AM
Orchid Whisperer Orchid Whisperer is offline
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I personally enjoy bringing a plant from a seedling up to blooming size. It can take a while, though. If you don't mind the wait, buying seedlings gives you the opportunity to obtain a smaller plant of a hybrid or species that otherwise might be quite expensive as an adult.

Carter & Holmes is a good vendor, and others have recommended good sources in some of the earlier posts. Whatever you decide to do, good luck!
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2014, 11:48 AM
gardengirl13 gardengirl13 is offline
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OK I think I got it. I'm going to buy a couple plants from carter and holmes and a couple from big leaf, and then a couple from the local place so I have some instant gratification. That way I'll have a couple who will bloom in two years a couple next year and a couple now.

I was hesitant, but seeing that they might acclimate to my house better as youngsters makes me feel a little better about it. I'll post photos, of course. ha ha! Thanks so much everyone! Now I hope that one phal from big leaf didn't sell out on me!! I had a few in my cart and one already disappeared!!
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2014, 12:55 PM
quiltergal quiltergal is offline
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What are you ordering from Big Leaf? Peter is my favorite vendor. I have several seedlings from him and they are all doing really well.
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2014, 01:07 PM
Pilot Pilot is offline
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I no longer buy seedlings. For example, I wanted a Phal Samera and Peter had both seedlings and booming size. The price was double but I know I struggle with seedlings and so I just saved a little on her and got one great plant rather than save on trying to survive a seedling.


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  #17  
Old 03-13-2014, 01:07 PM
gardengirl13 gardengirl13 is offline
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Haven't made up my mind yet!! ha ha!! I have about 15 in my cart! I'm in trouble I think!!

This one is NOT in my cart, but I can't tell you how much I want it!! so cute!!!!

Phal Joy Spring Tina 'Anaconda' [Tu127] - $500.00 : Big Leaf Orchids, Fragrant and Novelty Phalaenopsis
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2014, 01:12 PM
Pilot Pilot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gardengirl13 View Post
Haven't made up my mind yet!! ha ha!! I have about 15 in my cart! I'm in trouble I think!!



This one is NOT in my cart, but I can't tell you how much I want it!! so cute!!!!



Phal Joy Spring Tina 'Anaconda' [Tu127] - $500.00 : Big Leaf Orchids, Fragrant and Novelty Phalaenopsis

Uh yeah that's one I've swooned over for a long time. It's amazing.

Don't get the blooming size Phal. They're hideous and ugly. (And I want to get one more).

I'm kidding of course. I love Peter's plants. You won't be disappointed.


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  #19  
Old 03-13-2014, 01:43 PM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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Just to confuse you a little more, you should take a look at H.P. Norton's website called Orchidview. He's a well respected phalaenopsis breeder.

http://www.orchidview.com/about.htm
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2014, 02:21 PM
Paul Paul is offline
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Your question is very subjective as you know.

If you are having issue blooming bs plants, then I also agree that you need to determine what the issue(s) are with those. Otherwise you may find that 5yrs down the road you have a bunch of what were once seedlings that still aren't blooming for you.

Personally, I buy bs plants as I do not have the patience to wait on a seedling. Furthermore, as with the young of most organisms, seedlings tend to be more fragile than mature plants. Then too, as has been mentioned, when you buy a plant in bloom, you know what the flowers will look like -- not necessarily so with a seedling. (And even with mericlones, -- due to possible errors in chromosome replication or other mutation which can occur during mitosis -- you can wind up with flowers that differ from what the parent plant has.)

On the other hand, the initial outlay for seedlings is considerably lower than that of a bs plant. If the seedlings were from seed, then you also have the possible benefit of winding up with a plant that has unusually superb blooms compared to the norm for that species or cross. (Although, yes, you could wind up with flowers that are incredibly ugly as well.) Then too, some folks greatly enjoy the process of raising plants up from seeds/seedlings.

With regard to your shelving unit:
Got a picture?
I assume the shelves are adjustable?
What are the dimensions?
What light source?

IME, you will need to place the plants very close to the light source -- however, keep in mind I use fluorescent tubes. If you were to use a HPS or some other light sources, it likely would be a very different story. My minicatts are positioned so their leaves are within a 3inches or less of the light bulbs. My few phals are roughly 6 inches from the light bulbs. To accommodate this, the lights are on chains so I can raise or lower the fixtures and many of the plants are seated on inverted pots so I can raise those that need to be closer to the light while leaving those that don't want as much further away. Also -- keeping in mind that the light output for 4ft fluorescent tubes is much weaker in the last 6inches of the tube at either end, I place those plants requiring less light closer to the ends on inverted pots. The last 3 inches or so on either end I consider "dead" space as far as plants go.

The most common cause for orchids not blooming is insufficient light. This can be an issue even for lower light plants like phals. Under such conditions, the plant simply will not have been able to amass enough energy to bloom. Then there are other factors that some plants have. For instance, many phals require a 10F degree or more drop between day and night temps to trigger spiking.

Oh and that phal you linked to is very neat -- but there isn't ANY plant I want THAT badly.

Last edited by Paul; 03-13-2014 at 02:23 PM..
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