New to Orchids and some question.

[catherinecarney]

Hi Rayleigh--

Welcome to the board!

I'm a newb, so I know my help will be limited, but here goes....

I have limited Den experience and I mostly grow species, though I've got a few den-phal hybrids (which may be what you have) here and there.

My understanding is that Dens like to be pot bound--based on that yours looks overpotted to me. Also, have you checked for dryness of the media before you water? It may appear dry on top or the edges but still be soggy in the middle in a larger pot. I use a bamboo skewer to check the middle of my pots before I water.

Have you checked the status of the roots? Not just the ones on top but the ones in the center of the mix? Also, most Dens seem to prefer fairly bright light--what is the light level that it's getting?

The picture of the stem damage worries me a bit. It could be mechanical damage (insect or animal--around here I have a cat that like to chew on my plants), but there's always the possibility of disease, and I don't know enough to tell you if that's the case. Hopefully one of our experienced members will be able to tell you more.

Hope this helps a bit!

Catherine

[GeorgiaVL]

, I am new to this forum but have been collecting orchids off and on for the past 12 years. I only have three Dendrobiums in my collection. One of them is Den spectabile that currently has several buds. I acquired this plant in early 2000 (it is now a specimen size) and I have it potted in a large porous clay pot (with good drainage) using a special bark mixture sold at Lowe’s. Because, I have had it for sometime, I pretty much know when it needs water. For the winter I have it sitting on a North-facing window with dappled sunlight, and seems to love it – like I said it has several buds. I have an overhead fan that I leave on 24/7. After the thaw I put it outside (in a shaded area) until early fall; before the frost starts I bring it back inside. This is what works for me.

My other Dendrobiums kingianum and tetragonum are currently happy planted in a small terrarium.

Now your plant
“The question that I had was, lately, I noticed that the cane is turning from green to whitish/grayish color. Is this normal or is something is wrong with the orchid?” The whitish/grayish color is the sheath drying or that dried out, nothing to worry about

“Also some parts of the cane is also having some sort of "hole" as you may notice in the picture below.” Do you have any pet? I have a cat that likes to bite my orchids living holes in either the bulb or leaves . If no pet, did you have the plant outdoor at any given time? Vermin also like to nibble on plants.

“ The plant is kept indoors next to a window. I think that the air is circulation alright. I for one would feel suffocated if the air circulation is poor. Other than that, there's no strong breeze of any kind that you might encounter outdoors.” When you say next to a window, does it receive indirect sunlight, lots of sun? Regarding air circulation, this can be from a fan or having the plant in a media that allows for good circulation to the roots, including a pot with good drainage. You could breath, but orchids need a different kind of air circulation to breath.

“The actual pot that the plant is in has lots of holes at the side. The ceramic pot is just a decorative pot used to store and keep the plant from falling over.” The decorative pot used to stabilize the plant, is probably also keeping the plant from having good air circulation on the roots and not allowing water to drain. Suggest repotting the plant in a porous clay pot, which will serve to stabilize the plant and give it good air circulation.


“So I guess no one here knows if anything is wrong with my orchid?” I suggest you read the advice on the following discussion (it is mainly for Phalaenopsis, but I think you will find good advice on that discussion)
“The Phal abuse ends here”

Although this is my first time posting, I have been using OB as a resource and know that there are many members in this forum with various expertise on growing orchids (including Den) and their care. Just adding my two cents.

[catherinecarney]

Hi Guest No More--

Welcome! Sounds like you have far more orchid experience than I do, so thanks for chiming in! Glad to hear you grow some species Dens too.

I hadn't even thought of referencing "the Phal abuse ends here" thread, but I agree that it has advice that is applicable to this Den as well. Rayleigh, it's a long thread, but the first 10-20 pages should give you a lot of good information.

Catherine

[GeorgiaVL]

Hi Rayleigh, below is some additional help from AOS.org

Dendrobium for Beginners

den-DROH-bee-um

Dendrobium is a diverse genus of orchids with different cultural needs. This culture information is for the phalenopsis-type dendrobiums pictured above. They are evergreen with thin, tall stems (pseudobulbs).


Water
Water your orchids in the morning so that the leaves are dry before night. How often to water depends on the potting media used, the type of pot (plastic or clay), and the size of the pot. Dendrobiums like to be in small pots and are usually much taller than the pot is wide. Because they are usually large plants in relatively small pots, watering twice a week is about average. They like to be almost dry before re-watering.

When watering, place the plant in the sink and use tepid water. Do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so. Be sure to let the plant drain completely.


This is a good time to look closely at your plant for any sign of insects or disease.


Light
Dendrobiums need lots of light, but not direct sun. A lightly shaded south window is best. East or west facing windows are satisfactory if bright (avoid direct sun except at the beginning or end of the day).

Temperature
Dendrobiums can withstand hot weather if adequate ventilation and humidity are provided. They are best grown when the temperature is between 65°F and 75°F in the day and between 55ºF to 60ºF at night.

Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature.

Fertilizer
Any balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20, etc.) can be used to fertilize your orchid. Feed weakly (1/4 strength) weekly works well for dendrobiums. Once a month use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix.

Tips
Use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity around your plants. Be sure the pot does not sit in water as this will rot the roots.

Give your plants room for air to circulate around them. Crowding of plants can lead to problems with insect infestations and fungus. A small fan will help provide good air circulation around your plants.

When your plant has finished blooming, you can cut the flowering stem at the point where it came out of the tall thin pseudobulbs. Do not cut off the tall thin stem because the new flower stem will grow from there. Continue watering and fertilizing and within a year a new growth will spike to begin the blooming cycle again!

When re-potting, use a small pot; using a large pot will slow growth and reduces flowering significantly. Re-pot every two to three years.

[james mickelso]

looks fine to me although the pics are kind of rough. dens flower and then go to sleep. the graying is the old sheath material that grays or browns with age and becomes papery. this will drop it's leaves and after a winters rest it will throw one or two new growths and flower next autumn. they like a somewhat dry winters rest.

[quiltergal]

Hi Rayleigh. What you have is a Phal type Dendrobium. The prefer warm conditons, bright light, and to dry out a bit between waterings. The papery sheaths that have turned gray are perfectly normal. However, it does appear that the mildew/mold has begun to creep up the sheath of the older cane. I can see a little new growth eye right next to the flowering cane.

Your media looks very old. I think it's probably time for a repot, possibly into a smaller pot. Dens in general like to be very pot bound. The roots should just fit very snugly in the pot. It will most likely sulk for awhile after repotting.

I never gave mine a winter rest. They aren't like nobile type Dens that require a 3 month cool/dry period. Once it's done flowering you should see the new growth start to emerge. Once that growth has matured it should flower if given enough light. Mine flowered at all different times of the year. Good luck!

[emosupremo]

This answer submitted by someone not familiar with Dendrobiums (which is why I read your post in the first instance).
Perhaps your orchid is a Dendrobium Victoria Reginae. If it is then perhaps you might contact Diamond Ochids (Peter Lin) who sold it to me at one of our monthly meetings in NY. Some info I garnered from the net: Philippine cloud forests > 5000'; 176" per season, >85% humidity, 59-73 degrees pot, plastic <flowers in> Spring on older leafless cane. high failure rate in cultivation

Again, I do not know if this was the answer to your original question. If it is a VR I don't think it gets a nobile-like rest. There is a picture on page 173 of Brian and Wilma Rittershausen's book which claims it a warm growing plant, deciduous in cultivation and nees a good rest in winter.

Tried to help bu "Caveat Emptor".

[hagfish]

Looks to me like one of the Dendrobium "nobile" hybrids. These are extremely common. Cane type Dendrobiums often tend to loose their leaves after the flowers fall. They undergo a dormancy and then new shoots form when the rains come. Many species are adapted to drought/monsoon seasonal cycles. I would say the hybrids tend not to need a dormancy. The holes in the stem look suspiciously like mouse damage. Mice are cute but are also incredibly destructive.

[Polarizeme]

You guys rock, I knew you'd come through!

[james mickelso]

After a fourth look I suggest you repot this into a better media as soon as possible. That old tree fern is decomposing quite fast and holding too much water. Even new sphagnum moss would be preferable. (did I say that??>!!!!) A medium bark with sponge rock or lava cinder and charcoal would be better. Stake this orchid with a sturdy stick or plant clip and when the new growth initiates, water it well. Every three days or so. Get some seaweed stuff from Ray and use that too.