Going Bonkers: Trouble with re-potting and root rot: Please Advise

[Wild Orchid]

Originally Posted by SHag42

I do have one question. one of them has a few roots that are green but flat, is that something to worry about they are firm?

Not an expert but I don't think the shape matters. As someone on the forum said - where's green, there's life, and where's life there's hope.

Good luck!

[SHag42]

Thanks Wild orchid, just wasn't sure about that one. So i will leave those roots be.

---------- Post added at 11:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------

I did read a care sheet a few days ago from a nursery i found online but I can't find it now. that said you should always repot an orchid in what in came in and if you wished to change it to a new media it should be done slowly over a few years. I believe what it said was if the orchid was grown in moss and you wanted to switch to bark with the first repotting you should only add about 1/4 bark to 3/4 moss, the next year go to 1/2 bark and 1/2 moss etc. This was talking about phals not sure if it applied to all orchids. has anyone else read on heard of this?

[Gthumbz89]

[QUOTE=Wild Orchid;606249]
Within last two years I have also learned by trial and error that most old roots, no matter how healthy they are hate new environment.
QUOTE]

Very true. As an example arieal roots that are potted tend to die off... the same is true for potted roots being unpotted. It is not unreasonable to assume that the roots get shocked and die off.
As far as the sulking plant issue is concerned. Every orchid that I have had mail ordered has sulked for a couple of months before growing. They are just adjusting to the new growing conditions. No amount of superthrive or KLN can force a plant to go against its inner clock so unfortunately you'll just have to wait for the plant to adjust. Just my

[RosieC]

Just a thought... but sometimes the roots are already going bad when you get them and nothing is going to stop that, they are actually further gone that they appear on the outside.

It's not always the case, but don't blame yourself if you start out with one already rotting

[Orchid Whisperer]

Hi SHag42

This is what works for me, for many orchids, but especially Phals.

A new plant's roots & leaves get a quick inspection before purchase if possible (of course, this does not apply to mail/online purchases). As soon as it comes home, all growing medium that it is potted in gets thrown out. All dead or sickly roots are trimmed off with flame-sterilized tools (assuming you also have good roots). Rinse off the roots, inspect again for bugs, signs of disease, treat if needed.

Assuming all looks OK, I pot it up. For Phals, I use terra cotta pots only (the unglazed pot wicks excess moisture away, reduces the chance of overly wet root conditions and rot). I use coarse bark-based media for Phals, with some coarse charcoal mixed in. I pot the plant with DRY medium. I wait a day or 2 before watering in case any roots were bruised/cut and need to heal over (I have never found a short dry period to be harmful).

When you start watering, water thoroughly, but not too often. Run a lot of water through the medium, let it drain. Water again when the medium is just barely damp. A good monitor for moisture is a bamboo or wooden skewer inserted deep into the medium; it stays in the pot all the time, pull it out slightly when you think the plant needs water, if it is damp, wait a day. Until the plant seems to be growing new roots, keep it in a bit more shade than your other Phals.

I don't use fertilizer (or things like KLN or seaweed extract) until I see the plant actively growing on its own first.

This is what works for me. FWIW, I have not lost a Phal, new or old, in close to 10 years. My Phals have been outside all summer during the wettest year in history in my part of Georgia. All are growing strong, with healthy root systems.

[Edward Brookes]

I cannot see that you are doing anything wrong at all, & so I feel that you are getting plants that are already declining. The shops are not remotely interested in cultivation of Phalaenopsis, only in selling a product. Always be cautious in the use of chemicals, as you seem to be now. perhaps you could try leaving one new purchase as it was when you bought it, but keep it in your good environment, with routine care as you maintain, & wait for it to become active BEFORE transplanting into new media. Just a suggestion.

[SHag42]

Originally Posted by RosieC

Just a thought... but sometimes the roots are already going bad when you get them and nothing is going to stop that, they are actually further gone that they appear on the outside.

It's not always the case, but don't blame yourself if you start out with one already rotting

And this could in fact be the case. Most of the plants I have bought have had a case of the rot. A few have not and have fared better with less root loss. I do have some that I ordered that appear to have decent roots but I have been afraid to pot them. Don't want to mess up a plant I spent more money on. Thanks alot RosieC for the input.

---------- Post added at 08:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

Hi SHag42

Hi Orchid Whisper

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

Assuming all looks OK, I pot it up. For Phals, I use terra cotta pots only'

I did only use the terra cotta pots till I got root rot in some of them and joined this board and read about the benefits of using clear plastic pots. I drill lots of holes in those to give them more air.

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisper

I use coarse bark-based media for Phals, with some coarse charcoal mixed in. I pot the plant with DRY medium.

When you say that you pot them dry have you soaked the bark and let it dry out or just used it straight out of the bag?

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisper

I wait a day or 2 before watering in case any roots were bruised/cut and need to heal over

I have been waiting a week or two before watering but the medium was wet when I put it in.

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisper

A good monitor for moisture is a bamboo or wooden skewer inserted deep into the medium;

I have been trying to use the skewer method. But a few times I think I have let them go to dry in fear of over watering.

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisper

Until the plant seems to be growing new roots, keep it in a bit more shade than your other Phals.

Have been doing this although most of my area is shade which good be adding to the problem.

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisper

I don't use fertilizer (or things like KLN or seaweed extract) until I see the plant actively growing on its own first.

OK this makes sense now that I think about it.


I have one phal that is about 4 years old I think. It has always done really well for me till we had all the rain. then it got root rot and a fungus. The medium was old and worn out. It had been in the same pot and media that it came in. When I took it out most of the bark had turned to soil. I re-potted in a terra cotta pot trim off the bad leaves and roots and it is looking great now. No problems and has 3 beautiful blooms. I figured this one is just tough because it has been with me all this time in the same place and I have to say I put it through a lot.

Thank you so much for all this great advise. I will make some changes to my re-potting regime.

---------- Post added at 09:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Edward Brookes

I cannot see that you are doing anything wrong at all, & so I feel that you are getting plants that are already declining. The shops are not remotely interested in cultivation of Phalaenopsis, only in selling a product. Always be cautious in the use of chemicals, as you seem to be now. perhaps you could try leaving one new purchase as it was when you bought it, but keep it in your good environment, with routine care as you maintain, & wait for it to become active BEFORE transplanting into new media. Just a suggestion.

I think I will start holding off on the chemicals for a while it could be doing more damage than good.

I will have to try next time letting one stay as it is. They are just always in sopping tightly packed spag and I hate that stuff. sometimes for my minis I do use a little spag mixed in but I do not pack it tightly.

[Edward Brookes]

I was wondering if you ever use foliar feeding for your plants? I think it is a neglected method, which is unfortunate because it is effective, & when plants are in trouble, such as with root rot, it can do wonders as a pick up & grow treatment. I use it in the late afternoon, & aim to get the VERY fine spray on the underside of the leaves. That is where the stomata are most numerous, & they open at night. I was taught this by a grower whose rather tumbled - down greenhouse was permanently jammed with phals in spike. He used only organic feeds, especially seaweed extract. I can't recall ever detecting any unpleasant smell, because the mist of very dilute fertilizer was so light.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Regarding the medium, if it is a mix that contains coir or coconut husk chips, I soak it an rinse it thoroughly, then let it air dry.

Also, if the medium is a mix that contains fines or dust, I rinse it/dry it.

If the medium is more or less clean, no fine particles, I usually use it as-is.

[SHag42]

Originally Posted by Edward Brookes

I was wondering if you ever use foliar feeding for your plants? I think it is a neglected method, which is unfortunate because it is effective, & when plants are in trouble, such as with root rot, it can do wonders as a pick up & grow treatment. I use it in the late afternoon, & aim to get the VERY fine spray on the underside of the leaves. That is where the stomata are most numerous, & they open at night. I was taught this by a grower whose rather tumbled - down greenhouse was permanently jammed with phals in spike. He used only organic feeds, especially seaweed extract. I can't recall ever detecting any unpleasant smell, because the mist of very dilute fertilizer was so light.

I do mist with seaweed sometimes, but some people do not recommend it due to it causing fungus. I mist sometimes in the morning if it is going to be a hot day with just plain water but most of the time I do it after I get home from work which is about 5:30pm. Do you think I should do it later in the evening? It is getting dark now about 8:30pm. I have a small bottle that puts out a very fine mist.
Thanks for the advise.

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer

Regarding the medium, if it is a mix that contains coir or coconut husk chips, I soak it an rinse it thoroughly, then let it air dry.

Also, if the medium is a mix that contains fines or dust, I rinse it/dry it.

If the medium is more or less clean, no fine particles, I usually use it as-is.

Thank you for the reply. I use the better gro special blend. It makes a lot of sense to not put wet medium on a plant that is suffering from rot root. I have noticed when they are first repotted they do not use much water. I will try one with dry medium and see how it goes. thanks a bunch