Initiate Paph blooms?

[The Mutant]

I'm trying to get some of the Paphs I've recently purchased to bloom and figured they might want a temperature drop like Phals do to initiate some spikes. Is this correct thinking on my behalf?

If so, do they want a temperature drop for approximately six week like I've read here on OB somewhere that Phals want?

I've only chosen the ones that I consider being blooming sized, so none of my babies will be put through this, and only the ones that love a bit of lower temperatures that might be hard to achieve in a flat. To ensure this temperature drop I've put some of them outside on my balcony since the Swedish summer nights are not particularly warm (and the temperatures in general are low at the moment), and I thought to move them inside during the warmer days since my living room is my "cold" room at the moment, thus making sure they don't suffer too big a temperature fluctuation.

The ones I have outside right now are: Paph. gratrixianum, Paph. villosum, Paph. helenae, Paph. venustum, Paph. appletonianum, Paph. hainanense, and Paph. wardii. If any of these do not like temperatures down to 12*C, please let me know so they can go inside again!

So, is this a good idea or a bad one, or should I wait until autumn to do this since I don't know how long these low temperatures will last? I know that if it's okay for me to do this, they'll have a bit of weird flowering cycle as compared to the rest, but I think I could live with that.

[Ray]

As far as I can tell, paphs bloom based upon maturation of growths, not in response to outside stimuli.

12°C is no too cold, but I'd avoid much lower.

I am unsure of the point of avoiding temperature fluctuation. Plants' metabolisms are directly related to temperature - up to a limit, warmer=faster growth (temper that with shade as the temperatures rise). A warm day followed by a cool night means excellent development of plant stores during the metabolic stages, and reduced expenditure of them at night. The result is a healthier, better growing plant. That is the ideal for wine grapes, as an example.

By the way, to induce spiking, phals need about 10-14 days of an average temperature about 8-10°C lower than that at which they have been grown.

[The Mutant]

Thanks for your answer Ray.

They don't? So they don't need any kind of "stress factor" such as a temperature drop/dry season or similar to bloom?

The Paph. villosum has six fans and has never bloomed which was one of the reasons its former owner traded it to me. The Paph. helenae also has six fans, but has never bloomed, the gratrixianum has four and has never bloomed. I figured these guys might need something more to bloom but that is not the case then.

I'll try shading them then and leave them outdoors so they can enjoy the colder temperatures and the moving air.

[Ray]

I wouldn't think of the things some plants use to initiate blooming as being a "stress" as much as "cues". For example, cooling often goes along with a rainy season, and that is often accompanied- or followed by the hatching of insects - pollinators. Likewise, the short days that can trigger future blooming in some cattleya species is followed by spring, when the same things happen.

Helenae typically blooms in late summer/early fall.

Villosum is pretty much a "cold grower" in the first place, so outdoors is a good choice. They typically bloom in late winter/early spring.

There are lots of reasons a plant won't bloom, and sometimes it's genetically stubborn....

[camille1585]

I think what you need is patience! Paphs bloom once the fans mature, and the species tend to bloom at certain periods of the year. I looked all those up in Orchidwiz, and all bloom winter-early spring, and for nearly all (except helenae and wardii, not much info) it says that growers recommend a somewhat cooler and drier rest for 2 months in mid-late fall. Something interesting for gratrixianum, fans take 2-3 years to mature!

So I would keep the plants warm indoors, let them grow strong healthy fans over the summer, and then worry about the induction period in the fall.

[quiltergal]

I agree with Ray and Camille. I would only add that some Paphs are warm/hot growers. Putting them all outside in the cool air will slow down their growth. Some also like very bright light. For example I'm growing a druyi in Catt light. Quite a few of them can take up to 2500 fc.

[The Mutant]

Alright, then I'll do that and wait until autumn to let them get a bit colder temperatures.

It's not that I'm impatient, although it might seem like it, it's just that I want to do what I can for these little guys and I thought since they all like it a bit colder, why not give them that? And they'll get it, but not until later then.

It's good to know I "can" lower the temperatures enough for them without me and the kitties having to suffer (how about checking what temperatures they want before buying them? ).

Oh, I had no idea that the gratrixianum was such a slow grower. Almost on par with Mr. roth I think. Thanks for letting me know Camille!

[camille1585]

A lot of the ones you posted actually grow quite warm in ths summer if you go by Orchidwiz. I'm not going to look again, but for many the summer temps in habitat were something like 25-28°C (some were cooler), but then in the winter it goes down to between 2 and 8°C, depending on the species.

[Ray]

All of my paphs are on the same bench as the phals, so they stay pretty warm.

[The Mutant]

Originally Posted by Ray

All of my paphs are on the same bench as the phals, so they stay pretty warm.

Which species do you have?