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  #21  
Old 04-25-2012, 09:41 AM
OCO1 OCO1 is offline
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Now, I want to know - how do you post a new thread?? I want to ask a question, but can't find the new thread link! How/where??!!
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2012, 10:24 AM
nutgirl nutgirl is offline
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Choose the forum that applies to your question.
Click on the 'new thread' box at the upper left.

Maureen
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2012, 10:46 AM
Mira-Claude Mira-Claude is offline
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The trick I found most helpful was to know where each cattleya I have came from and adapt the care from there.

Even though most cattleyas seem to like high light, some do not tolerate it as well. I have some that take less light than phalaenopsis.

Most cattleyas also like to dry out between watering. But it does not hold true to them all. Some like to stay fairly humid while other needs rest periods up to 6 months.

Search where the orchids are from. Not the country but the region. Are they from a tropical forest, a swamp, a mountain front, near the sea?

Do they face high winds in nature or are they fairly protected?

Some cattleya will sulk easily if all their requirements are not provided for, others will grow like weed even under the most cruel neglect.

As for the medium used, I say go with the plants requirements, what you are used to work with and what you feel safe using.

It's the best tip I was ever given and it works all the time!
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2012, 09:08 PM
james mickelso's Avatar
james mickelso james mickelso is offline
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I see nice healthy new buds breaking at the base of some of the bbulbs in your pics. That is what you want to nurture. They are next seasons flowers depending on the species. Are you sure they are catts or could they be LC's or slc's or blc's? It makes a difference. Do you know the name of the orchids? The parentage? All of this info is important if you want to get the very best from them. The basics are 70-80 degrees day time and 60-65 at night. Depending of course on the parentage. Most prefer a good drenching and then let them dry out completely. That is why you want a course mix. Wynne, is your spag packed tightly or just loose? I have trouble here at the beach with too much moisture when I use anything other than medium bark. I buy the hard pine bark. I also use lava cinder from a volcano I drive by going up to the sierra. I never have trouble with salt build up. But then again I use RO or distilled water. If I leave anything I get planted in spag, it is dead in a month. So maybe you can shed some light on youyr methods.
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  #25  
Old 04-25-2012, 10:20 PM
Wynn Dee13 Wynn Dee13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james mickelso View Post
I see nice healthy new buds breaking at the base of some of the bbulbs in your pics. That is what you want to nurture. They are next seasons flowers depending on the species. Are you sure they are catts or could they be LC's or slc's or blc's? It makes a difference. Do you know the name of the orchids? The parentage? All of this info is important if you want to get the very best from them. The basics are 70-80 degrees day time and 60-65 at night. Depending of course on the parentage. Most prefer a good drenching and then let them dry out completely. That is why you want a course mix. Wynne, is your spag packed tightly or just loose? I have trouble here at the beach with too much moisture when I use anything other than medium bark. I buy the hard pine bark. I also use lava cinder from a volcano I drive by going up to the sierra. I never have trouble with salt build up. But then again I use RO or distilled water. If I leave anything I get planted in spag, it is dead in a month. So maybe you can shed some light on youyr methods.
I grow my Catts, mini catts, Laelia species, sophronitis species, and a few odds and ends in clay pots and New Zealand spaghnum moss. I usually use some styrofoam packing peanuts at the bottom of the pot. I try to pack the moss as loosely as I can. I then use stakes or rhizome clips to anchor the plant in the pot. The clay pots range from 2 inches to 6 inches. I usually don't use the spaghnum moss in plastic pots unless the pot has a lot of drainage. I only grow my two Phals and an Angraecum distichum in plastic pots with packing peanuts in the bottom and the spaghnum moss. Everything does great. I actually prefer the moss to anything else. I grow my plants under lights in my spare bedroom in the cold months so the moss helps with humidity. I grow almost everything outside when it is warm enough. I use those small 4 tier green houses that have a plastic cover so I can control the water while outside(you know about Seattle rain, right?). I have them (2 of them but might need 1 more this year) on my deck and I tie them to the deck so they don't fall over when it is windy. I keep the front open most of the time unless it is windy. They look like this:Mini Greenhouse- Four Levels I am more of an under waterer so I don't have a problem with the moss being too wet. I do have to repot almost once a year though because it breaks down and then it doesn't dry out fast enough when it is old. I know of a really good eBay seller that grows mostly catts and Laelias and he grows all his in clay pots with New Zealand spaghnum too. I do have a few bigger catts that are in plastic pots with a bark mix but am changing them over to a CHC mix to see how it goes. I hope this helps! If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask! Thanks for your interest.
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  #26  
Old 04-26-2012, 05:14 AM
flexdc flexdc is offline
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Just to chime in, I think the key is clay pots and pack the sphagnum loosely. I grow my phals that way and I mix some bark in just to give it some aeration.
I also have one of those plastic green houses. I use it to over winter my plants. I do keep a small heater in there during the winter for the cold nights when temps drop to the 40s. I think they are great.
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  #27  
Old 04-26-2012, 10:17 AM
dounoharm dounoharm is offline
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they are staying too wet cause they are in too much medium in too large a pot....repot asap into a chunkier mix in a smaller pot....gl
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