Using glue to seal fractures on phalaenopsis roots?

[Phalaenoptics]

Has anyone ever heard of using glue to seal fractures on phal roots? Or what would be your recommended method?

The reason why some people put cinnamon on their orchid roots is because they:
1.) believe it to be antifungal and
2.) probably want to dry out the wounds they made during repotting.
(and of course, the unnamed 3.) saw it on a youtube video.)

I believe this same reasoning is behind why these people recommend spraying hydrogen peroxide - to clean any cuts and fractures created during handling of the orchid roots, and prevent infection.

I've read about various glues being used to seal fractures: superglue, Elmer's glue, hot glue, and candlewax.

Whichever glue is used, I imagine it needs to be something that is 1.) waterproof once cured, 2.) something that can seal the broken velamen but leave the function of the cortex & inner root intact.

What's everyone's thoughts on this? I'm genuinely curious!

[edit]: I wanted to make it clear that I don't believe you should use cinnamon or hydrogen peroxide on roots. I was trying to express the thinking process of those who do 😅

[Ray]

Cinnamon is a decent fungicide and bactericide, but it is even a better desiccant. Overuse on roots will kill them.

In my opinion, drugstore H2O2 should never be applied to roots. It is entirely to oxidative, releasing an immense amount of energy almost instantly that can damage delicate tissues. Any disinfecting action is transient at best.

I have never heard of waterproof glues used to "fix" broken roots successfully. They tend to have solvents that, by themselves, can be damaging. Elmer's, or other casein-based glues have a water solvent, but really are not waterproof. Once dry, they take a while to rewet and reliquify, but if left in moist medium, they will wash away over time.

[rbarata]

Whenever I brake a root, from a Phal or any other orchid/plant, I say to myself "Damn!" and then I forget it.
It's better to leave it than making it worse.

[claypot]

What you say you have broken is not the "root" itself but the spongy velamen protection layer. The real root is the thread like filament which runs inside the sponge. So when you break the sponge the root is still intact. I would suggest that gluing the breakage would have little other than cosmetic effect. . Once broken the whole root string will not be able to progress anyway although it can still protect the root thread and collect moisture for it to access as it wants to take it.

[Phalaenoptics]

Originally Posted by claypot

What you say you have broken is not the "root" itself but the spongy velamen protection layer. The real root is the thread like filament which runs inside the sponge. So when you break the sponge the root is still intact. I would suggest that gluing the breakage would have little other than cosmetic effect. . Once broken the whole root string will not be able to progress anyway although it can still protect the root thread and collect moisture for it to access as it wants to take it.

Actually, the whole root can continue after the fracture point! From what I've seen, phalaenopsis roots can and do naturally grow and segment. Look at any phal root that is squeezing itself out of a slot in the pot 😂

I've also had new green growing root tips appear from roots that I thought were damaged! So the velamen and spongey cortex can continue growing as long as the inner root (the vascular tissues aka "that white string/filament") is still alive.

I think the question I'm after is: theoretically, if you fracture a healthy growing root, is there a way to seal the cut so that you can keep pathogens from entering the fresh wound?

I know some people just let it dry out a bit and that will take care of it. I've also heard that some people treat it with heat? To cauterize the exposed tissue, I guess?

Or, in another case I've experienced: the root is healthy and living but at one point the outermost layer of velamen tears due to being exposed to the air and overly dry. The rest of the root continues happily as normal. Is there a way to seal the wound?

(I know practically it's probably not even worth worrying about, but this is my intellectual curiosity asking haha)

[SADE2020]

Originally Posted by rbarata

Whenever I brake a root, from a Phal or any other orchid/plant, I say to myself "Damn!" and then I forget it.
It's better to leave it than making it worse.

---------- Post added at 09:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:01 PM ----------

I use cinnamon and the sealed with candlewax when I cut flower spikes. But not on roots

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Phalaenoptics

I believe this same reasoning is behind spraying hydrogen peroxide - to clean any cuts and fractures created during handling of the orchid roots, and prevent infection.

I did once try that approach ------ for a while ---- and noticed that the orchids didn't do much growing of roots for relatively long periods of time -- eg. 2 months or more ------ quite a consistent outcome. It didn't kill the orchids or roots for the 3% concentration I used, but it was causing growth setbacks.

This isn't a directive to discourage anybody that tries that approach. It's only for mentioning that - if you notice the same thing when trying it, then could try not using it for other orchids ----- and see what the difference is.

Regarding cinnamon, I have seen posts about its drying effect on roots. So may need to watch out for that. And if the roots are inside the pot, and they get wet, the cinnamon would probably get washed off when watering.

And regarding glue and sealants ----- for the purpose of sealing roots --- I think that if orchids are in good growing conditions, then they will sort out the fractured root issue by themselves - naturally ------ as in they'll grow new roots, or may sprout side-shoot roots from existing branches.

I guess if the label says something like don't put on human skin, or don't put on humans, then maybe also best to not put on the roots. Candle wax might be ok, although, that would involve hot wax on root ...... so may need to consider what the heat might do.

Will the repaired fractured roots be remaining in open air? (eg. 'aerial roots') ----- or they will be buried into media? So may consider effects of water traps ----- or water that just gets into the sealed area, become trapped ----- eg. rotting issues. Not sure.

[Phalaenoptics]

Thanks, SP!

This is exactly the type of discussion I was hoping for haha.

I wanted to say - I don't use hydrogen peroxide or cinnamon on my orchid roots, in case that wasn't clear. I have also tried hydrogen peroxide on roots in the past, following the recommended newbie advice, and then stopped because I had a bad experience where I think the hydrogen peroxide and the cinnamon contributed to it.

But I see a lot of beginner growers recommend these things to each other over and over again, so I wanted to bring up the reasoning they're following. Sorry if that was unclear.

You bring up a great point - aerial roots vs roots buried in the media. If roots are in the media and the wetness is applied to the fracture point, and the glue stays constantly wet, then it would invite the pathogens it's meant to seal out.

Whereas if the root is always exposed to the air, then the sealing agent would form the sort of callus/barrier that it's meant to form.

This question was kind of inspired by Ray's post on roots, and thinking about the fractures/microfractures on roots that can be done by repotting, or just accidentally during other circumstances. (I should have mentioned this in the OP!)

[Ray]

Originally Posted by claypot

The real root is the thread like filament which runs inside the sponge.

Really? The whole thing is the root.

That's like saying the "real finger" is the bone in the middle, without flesh or skin.

[Leafmite]

The roots will heal themselves. By leaving the roots exposed to air and keeping them dry for a few days, this prevents disease from entering the wounds in the roots before they are healed. I always assume my orchid roots have been cracked or nicked and since I like NZ sphagnum moss for Phals, I set the orchid in the empty pot for a couple of days before adding the moss.