Limp and wrinkly phal leaves because of humidity?

[mtessa]

Hello! I'm currently having issues with my phals. My cattleyas seem to be doing better.

The leaves on my phals started wrinkling and going limp a few weeks ago when the temperature dropped. My apartment has a floor to ceiling glass windows, and I'm having issues with humidity and even temperature because of the glass.

I'm running two humidifiers, but I can only raise the humidity to 35-40%, the humidity is around 15-25% without it. I have also been lightly misting several times a day. The current temperature in my area is 1°C
to -10°C.

I don't believe I'm underwatering the orchids. They were repotted last month (same medium), but maybe they are not established yet, so they're struggling? Are the limp and wrinkled leaves permanent?

What else can I do to help the phals 'recover' and reduce stress on the plants this winter?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

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[Ray]

You're probably correct about the "iffy" root system and the inability to take up enough water. That, coupled with dry air, means the foliar loss of water is greater than the root uptake. If the plants got too cool (less than about 20C) with wet roots, that could cause them to fail faster.

My approach would be to make sure the medium stays moist but airy, keep it very warm and shady, and then invert a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to trap the humidity, slowing the desiccation process.

[mtessa]

Originally Posted by Ray

You're probably correct about the "iffy" root system and the inability to take up enough water. That, coupled with dry air, means the foliar loss of water is greater than the root uptake. If the plants got too cool (less than about 20C) with wet roots, that could cause them to fail faster.

My approach would be to make sure the medium stays moist but airy, keep it very warm and shady, and then invert a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot to trap the humidity, slowing the desiccation process.

Thanks Ray. The phals are currently a foot away from a south/southeastern window but I'm thinking of moving them because it cooler there. The problem is the new location will be barely getting any light. I may use artificial lights. How important is light during winter?

[Ray]

The plants need light every day, but phalaenopsis are not particularly demanding of it. Look for a white LED floodlight of about 10 watts or more, and place it above the plant so that you see a very fuzzy shadow if you put your hand 1 foot from the plant.

[fishmom]

In addition to Ray's good advice, remember that the new medium you used when you repotted is probably holding less water than the old medium you discarded.

[ArronOB]

And your question on whether limp and wrinkled leaves are permanent: not permanent, they can rehabilitate quite nicely once conditions return to favourable and if they are otherwise healthy.

As phals don’t have pseudobulbs then the thick fleshy leaves are presumably involved in water storage.

[mtessa]

Originally Posted by fishmom

In addition to Ray's good advice, remember that the new medium you used when you repotted is probably holding less water than the old medium you discarded.

I caused root rot to two of my cattleyas so I think I'm being a bit too cautious about watering. Thank you for the advice.

[WaterWitchin]

mtessa, when you repotted your phals was it to a new bark medium mixture? A lot of times, especially depending on the bark, the medium requires a good soak in water prior to using it. Did you soak the new medium before potting if it contains bark? That could be a part of the problem. Your bark may not be retaining enough water yet.

[mtessa]

Originally Posted by WaterWitchin

mtessa, when you repotted your phals was it to a new bark medium mixture? A lot of times, especially depending on the bark, the medium requires a good soak in water prior to using it. Did you soak the new medium before potting if it contains bark? That could be a part of the problem. Your bark may not be retaining enough water yet.

Yes, I used new orchiata bark. I didn't presoak it because their website states not to. I watered last Saturday and just watered again today as the bark did look a bit dry. I usually water weekly. I noticed that the some of the roots are not as plump when watered compared to before.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by mtessa

Yes, I used new orchiata bark. I didn't presoak it because their website states not to. I watered last Saturday and just watered again today as the bark did look a bit dry. I usually water weekly. I noticed that the some of the roots are not as plump when watered compared to before.

That's correct, you do not want to soak Orchiata, which extracts some of the dolomite used when they aged it.

Instead, before you use the stuff, pour just enough boiling-, or at least very hot water over it to wet it, which starts to "open up" the internal structure. 15 minutes later, repeat. When it's cool, it's ready to use.

Now that you have the plant potted, you can improve its water-holding capacity by flooding the pot with tepid water, wait 15-30 minutes and repeat. After you've watered that way a time or two, it'll be fine.