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  #21  
Old 09-04-2013, 01:24 AM
DweamGoiL DweamGoiL is offline
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Whatever light comes in from outside is the strongest during that time because of the orientation of the window. It seems redundant to have the grow light on at that time as well. I was always afraid of leaving the light on too long and causing adverse effects.

I guess also subconsciously it is because I also have hermit crabs in a large tank. Their setup is also automated, but instead of by time it's by temperature so I guess I am more inclined to automate cycles.

Last edited by DweamGoiL; 09-04-2013 at 01:32 AM..
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2013, 02:50 AM
naoki naoki is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LadySoren View Post
So, 12" was too close as stated. Now it's like 20+" away from the leaves. Too far?
Also, it's just that 23W CFL. I was reading and some things say fluorescents need to be supplemented by incandescent bulbs. Myth or fact?
There's no sunlight hitting these plants FYI. Not unless they get a brief time (30 min??) weekly in a sunny spot near our sliding glass door.
Any more advice?
With a similar reflector + 23W OttLite, I measured the intensity:

6" 480fc
12" 180fc
20" 70fc

I would place the plants around 6" (even for hybrid phals).

I don't see any reason that you need incadescent bulbs for Phals. It's an old method to add red light. Some other plants (mostly non-orchids) may prefer/require more red. For example, in addition to photosynthesis, plants use sensors for different colors. Red light is important for something called photoperiodism (which is a mechanism for plants to tell the season by measuring the night length). But many orchids aren't photoperiodic.
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  #23  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:15 AM
Bill U. Bill U. is offline
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I have been using a setup much like the one that Bob suggested for you. I just use the smaller reflector size instead of the 10.5" reflector. I also use the 23 watt, 6500K CFL bulb.

I have had wonderful results of having my phals, cattleyas, and roses (I know, not orchids) under this type of setup. I have the timer set for 16 hours during the day. Some indoor growers vary the number of hours with the season- 16hrs/day for Spring and Summer, then 14hrs/day for Fall/Winter. It's a personal preference thing.

One way to measure the intensity of the light that your phals are receiving without having to go out and buy a fancy light meter is to use the free smartphone apps, "beeCam" or "light meter". There are several threads here on OB on the differences between the two, etc. I personally use BeeCam to help gauge the intensity to get the spacing right. I keep my phals around 2000-2500fc or so.
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  #24  
Old 09-07-2013, 09:08 PM
czygyny czygyny is offline
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I've been using plain old four foot fluorescents, with a warm white and cool white bulb, since the cost of plant tubes is so high, for many, many years for all my indoor plants, including my orchids, even in windows since the light is one sided and the exposure changes throughout the day, year and weather.

I use little T5s under my kitchen counters for smaller plants and propagation stations. Same cool/warm configuration.

I have everything on about 16-18 hours a day, because most of them are instrumental in treating my S.A.D. during the winter. Of course the fact that I have to buy more plants to grow under them all does not come into play at all.

LEDs and all the newer gadgets would be nice, but I'll have to wait for the cost to come down.
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  #25  
Old 09-21-2013, 03:02 PM
LadySoren LadySoren is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill U. View Post
I have been using a setup much like the one that Bob suggested for you. I just use the smaller reflector size instead of the 10.5" reflector. I also use the 23 watt, 6500K CFL bulb.

I have had wonderful results of having my phals, cattleyas, and roses (I know, not orchids) under this type of setup. I have the timer set for 16 hours during the day. Some indoor growers vary the number of hours with the season- 16hrs/day for Spring and Summer, then 14hrs/day for Fall/Winter. It's a personal preference thing.

One way to measure the intensity of the light that your phals are receiving without having to go out and buy a fancy light meter is to use the free smartphone apps, "beeCam" or "light meter". There are several threads here on OB on the differences between the two, etc. I personally use BeeCam to help gauge the intensity to get the spacing right. I keep my phals around 2000-2500fc or so.


About how big is your reflector? (the smaller size at walmart was 8.5" so not much smaller, wondering if they come smaller) And how far away is the bulb from the leaves?

I had mine at 12" like I had said earlier and one of my phals was very much not happy, it still isn't but idk what to do, I have moved it away from the direct rays of the light at this point which is off to the side about 30+" away. The bulb is 20"+ inches above my minis. I'm thinking that's way too far now, but my mini phals seem not to care what light they're in at all (leaves look just as good no matter what I've done to them). One even has a spike starting yay!
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  #26  
Old 09-22-2013, 10:06 AM
DweamGoiL DweamGoiL is offline
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I actually found I had to change my bulb to the higher 60-Watt. Now that the sun is not as plentiful due to the onset of the Fall, the orchid leaves are looking a bit dark.
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  #27  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:59 AM
Orchidhound56 Orchidhound56 is offline
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Remember, if you get the LED grow lights, is to get the new 5 watt diode ones instead of the old 1 watt diodes, watch out for Chinese made lights as they might burn out, get U.S.A made if possible or any other country, that is not China.


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  #28  
Old 09-23-2013, 12:27 PM
Bill U. Bill U. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LadySoren View Post
About how big is your reflector? (the smaller size at walmart was 8.5" so not much smaller, wondering if they come smaller) And how far away is the bulb from the leaves?

I had mine at 12" like I had said earlier and one of my phals was very much not happy, it still isn't but idk what to do, I have moved it away from the direct rays of the light at this point which is off to the side about 30+" away. The bulb is 20"+ inches above my minis. I'm thinking that's way too far now, but my mini phals seem not to care what light they're in at all (leaves look just as good no matter what I've done to them). One even has a spike starting yay!
My reflectors are about 5.5". I got mine from Home Depot for a couple dollars each. I use the 23w CFL (60 watt equivalent for incandescent) and I have them right about 6-7 inches or so from the top of the leaves of the phal- during summer, I will either move them up slightly or turn them off for a portion of the day to allow for the sun to give them what they need and cut down on my energy bills! haha.

If you want your light to be higher (away from the leaves), I would suggest getting a higher power bulb to compensate. It kind of depends upon what your space can provide. My experience with the mini phals is that they can take quite a beating in terms of "poor conditions", some may even argue that some generic story NOID hybrids are stronger/more tolerant to any sort of abuse because they were made to be sold on the large scale and handle abuse until they are sold (and sometimes even afterwards if the buyer doesn't care for it properly).

I have been debating on getting a higher bulb myself so I can use the 2 lights I have to cover a larger amount of area (higher-light loving plants closer obviously). Again, it depends upon what you would like to do/what your space allows. For the past month or so, my phals have been going without lights in a lightly shaded western window (because that's the only window direction I have in my room) and they have been doing fine with some dapple sunlight. I took care to slowly introduce them to it, so if that is something that may help your cause, it could be something to consider.

Let me know if you have more questions!

~Bill
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