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  #21  
Old 10-02-2012, 01:56 PM
DavidCampen DavidCampen is offline
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I have been using Dyna-Gro Orchid-Pro:
NPK 7-8-6 plus 2% Ca, 0.5% Mg, 0.1% Fe, 0.05%Cu,
0.05% Mn, 0.05% Zn and lesser amounts of B, Co and Mo.

I know that gardenias are high Fe requirement plants but for what it is worth: I bought a gardenia recently and potted it using a potting mix labeled for azeleas. I have been fertilizing it using the Orchid-Pro as with my orchids. I use RO water and use a chemical metering pump to add Orchid-Pro to the water going to my watering wand so that it has a TDS (approximated by EC) of 200-400 ppm. I use this whenever I water.

My gardenia started showing distinct chlorosis as described for Fe deficiency.
Missing nutrients cause plant problems

So this past month I have dosed the gardenia a couple of times with a solution of 5 ml Botanicare Cal-Mag (NPK 2-0-0 3.2% Ca, 1.2% Mg, 0.1% Fe) plus 0.25 g ferric ammonium citrate in 1 liter of water and the chlorosis has cleared up.

Last edited by DavidCampen; 10-02-2012 at 02:00 PM..
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  #22  
Old 10-08-2012, 02:20 AM
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AnonYMouse AnonYMouse is offline
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I lost that leaf but since then, no more leaf drop and the rest have greened up. Still has some yellow blotches, I think they are permanent.

Don't know if it was light levels, Mg, Ca and or something else that did the trick.

Thanks to all for your contribution.
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  #23  
Old 10-09-2012, 05:07 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnonYMouse View Post
And I will switch fertilizers when I've used up what I have.
I just could not resist responding to this statement as being a little like the person who says "I keep gaining about 5 pounds a week, but I will go on a diet as soon as I finish all the cakes, cookies and doughnuts I have in my freezer!"

If you even remotely suspect that the roots are not taking up the proper elements in your current fertilizer, CHANGE FERTILIZERS now!

CL
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  #24  
Old 10-09-2012, 06:43 PM
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I agree Cym Lady. I just switched to an MSU fertilizer. But, the other alternative, which I practiced spring through summer, was adding suppliments. I added Ironite, powdered milk, and Epsom Salts. I still plan to add the suppliments in the spring, and summer waterings, though, as I liked the results far too well. And, I have added extra calcium to the calcium hungry plants for the winter.
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  #25  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:34 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Leafmite,

I do not know if you have a chemistry background, but if you do not, I would be very careful about using supplements with the already balanced-for-orchids MSU fertilizer. Adding trace amounts of calcium with each watering should not do any damage, but large weekly amounts may do more harm than good.

Unless your water is seriously lacking in iron, which most is not, as an additive it is just not needed as the fertilizers carry it. ... and milk? I have grown orchids for over 50 years and the only thing I use milk on is a paper towel to clean off my leaves......

Go back to basics for the next 6 months with the MSU fertilizer alone, and see if your results are acceptable. If you want to start additions in 6 months, get a water and soil analysis before doing so.

In my opinion, most people get waaaaay too involved with recreating the wheel on additives to well researched fertilizer balances. They may have good results for a few months, and then if they have overdosed on the premise of "a little is good but more is better", the plants start showing strange symptoms.

CL

Last edited by Cym Ladye; 10-10-2012 at 07:39 PM..
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  #26  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:46 PM
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I have a degree in Chemical Engineering and have grown plants for thirty-seven years. I use lava rock, see, and can't use the tap water as we have a softner. Bark, sphagnum, CHC, all are slightly acidic and contain nutrients that feed a plant as they break down but the rock, unfortunately, breaks down far too slowly to help my orchids much and provides a different pH. I saw evidence that my plants were suffering with just the MSU formula (and, yes, I did buy the right formula). I just used what works for my other plants and had no further trouble. I also add eggshell. But you are right, someone inexperienced with plants or the suppliments might not understand how to balance them or how much should be added or realize that I have lava rock and use rain or distilled water. That does make a difference. Thanks for pointing that out, Cym Lady.
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  #27  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:53 PM
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I just wanted to add...I envy everyone who can use their tap water.
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  #28  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:47 PM
Cym Ladye Cym Ladye is offline
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Leafmite,

I have to ask why you chose to use only lava rock for your orchids? I am certain you know there are several types of lava rock, some do nothing more than attract salts and in a couple of years become toxic to the roots. If you have perfect water, very low in salts, it is possible to use it but otherwise I always suggest staying away from it as a medium.

Rain water has some nutrients but if you are using distilled you really have to start from scratch. Looks like you need to find a spring! Have you ever considered putting in a cut-off valve with an attachment in front of the softener as a bypass to use to water your orchids? Just a thought.......

CL

Last edited by Cym Ladye; 10-11-2012 at 08:51 PM..
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  #29  
Old 10-11-2012, 09:53 PM
Leisurely Leisurely is offline
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CL,
Thanks for turning on a light bulb for me.

I have Psychopsis papilio that was growing in lava rock when I purchased it four years ago. Since they don't like re-potting, I have left it in the lava rock all of these years. When the new root tips get about an inch long they brown at the tips and stop growing. It has spiked three times and each time they become about eight inches long they also brown at the end and die. Something tells me that I need to get my plant out of that lava rock before it is too late.
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  #30  
Old 10-12-2012, 12:24 AM
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My home is a combination of cool and humid (I have quite a few other plants) in the winter. I can't run fans as some of my plants don't like cool, moving air and the plants and orchids are in multiple places. Lava rock/net pots work for most, I grow some orchids mounted, two in a mix (vanilla and jewel), and one, a bulbo, is planted in sphagnum moss. I flush all my orchids well once a month. I can't use the hard water as I have a few orchids and non-orchids that are sensitive to water quality. Thanks, though, for trying to help. I have had the orchids in lava rock for some years now and they really do great so I am not too worried. For twelve years, I was using water from my goldfish pond to water all my plants and when I gave up the pond, that is when I began to have problems. I think the orchids will now be fine. Thanks for all the ideas!
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