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  #11  
Old 09-09-2008, 05:46 PM
cloudswinger cloudswinger is offline
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That french stuff happens to work on a particularly difficult fungal infection that wasn't being affected by other fungicides(or so I've read). It doesn't mean that it'd be suitable for your purposes.
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2008, 11:45 PM
gixrj18 gixrj18 is offline
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I use a systemic fungicide for maintainence, but I keep a spray bottle of copper on hand....to kill and dry out any fungus that does happen to slip through. I always apply it in the evening, though, for it will fry your plants in the heat. You also don't want to use it the same week as an algaecide treatment. Other than that, I haven't had any problems with it....and it's very effective. I know a commercial orchid grower that uses it once a month, on a large scale....he has no problems. I know it's very effective at drying up a fungus.

Last edited by gixrj18; 09-09-2008 at 11:47 PM..
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  #13  
Old 09-10-2008, 02:12 AM
Undergrounder Undergrounder is offline
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The reason is the standard systemic anti-rot fungacides are ridiculously expensive here, whereas a can of copper sulfide is cheap as chips.. and mancozeb is a surface fungacide, which i don't need.
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2008, 06:52 AM
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The "French stuff" - known to old-time orchid growers in the US as "Bordeaux Mix" - is a very good bactericide and fungicide, and used to be the "standard" treatment for rots.

It is well-established that copper compounds can damage thin leaved plants - think zygopetalum, as an example), and even Phyton, a commercial fungicide containing copper sulfate pentahydrate (21.4% CuSO4-5H20), should be used with caution on them. I have also heard that paph growers have had issues, as well.
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2008, 10:28 PM
orchids3 orchids3 is offline
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The chemist I talked to knew quite a bit about "Bordeaux Mix" probably because his family was Swiss and he is the second generation chemist. Bordeaux mix was origionally used to turn grapes an ugly blue so people would not steal them. The fact that it was a good fungicide was discovered later by accident. That it is also a phytotoxin in acid mixes is more important. Understand that plain old Corn meal soaked in water and put on plants after it is strained is also a good fungicide.
Has anyone tried it?

Last edited by orchids3; 09-11-2008 at 05:37 PM..
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2008, 02:04 PM
Leisurely Leisurely is offline
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In Florida, we have tillandsia, a common air plant that grows profusely in some varieties of trees and is a type of bromelaid. It can become so thick that it causes the tree to decline. There is also, of course the familiar Spanish moss. One of the controls for eliminating both is copper fungicide that is sprayed into the tree. If it kills bromelaids, what would it do to orchids? I think the answer is simple.
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2008, 05:30 PM
gixrj18 gixrj18 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leisurely View Post
In Florida, we have tillandsia, a common air plant that grows profusely in some varieties of trees and is a type of bromelaid. It can become so thick that it causes the tree to decline. There is also, of course the familiar Spanish moss. One of the controls for eliminating both is copper fungicide that is sprayed into the tree. If it kills bromelaids, what would it do to orchids? I think the answer is simple.
I guess it would depend on the dosage. Fertilizer can kill a plant, if you use enough of it....but we still feed that to our orchids. I guess the argument can go both ways, because there is lots of stuff that can kill a plant (under the right conditions) that are used on, and sold for plants every day! Just my

Last edited by gixrj18; 09-11-2008 at 05:37 PM..
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  #18  
Old 09-12-2008, 12:55 AM
snow snow is offline
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i,ve always kept a pennyin my pot of my favourite cats.
i just removed it.
hope it keeps blooming the way it has over the years
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  #19  
Old 09-19-2008, 03:11 PM
ChrisJGreen ChrisJGreen is offline
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I put a one pence in my spray bottle.
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  #20  
Old 09-20-2008, 10:02 AM
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Jasen hit the nail on the head. Dosage rate.

There are system funal infection of plants that are quite effectively eliminated with the use of Phyton, but it absolutely should not be used on a regular basis (it will build up to toxic levels), or in too strong of an application.
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