What the MSU fertilizer looks like?

[kiki-do]

My MSU came in liquid form...easy breezy....1 oz. per gallon of water. No residue.

[Ross]

Originally Posted by kiki-do

My MSU came in liquid form...easy breezy....1 oz. per gallon of water. No residue.

That was nice when Ray provided gallon jugs of the concentrate, but now it's quarts? I just buy the big tubs of powder and make my own concentrate a gallon at a time. I'm surprised how fast one goes though a gallon of concentrate.

[Ray]

Ross,

I discontinued the gallons because hardly anyone ordered them!

[Ross]

Originally Posted by Ray

Ross,

I discontinued the gallons because hardly anyone ordered them!

No problem Ray! I just make up my own concentrate as per your instructions.

[Ocelaris]

Newflasker, you said you got a pH of 4.25 with the MSU formula, was that with RO? And was that specifically the Ray's Greencare? Is that what is to be expected?

Ross I thought you measured pH also, do you monitor that?

The reason I ask, I know there are various solubilities of nutrients at different pH levels. I'm considering changing from RO to straight carbon filtered tap water since my dissolved nutrient load is so low, something on the level of 1 grain per gallon.

If you know your pH levels after mixing, it would be helpful to know. Last time I owned a pH meter, I ended up letting the bulb dry out, maybe there are better technologies, but I always worried about calibration etc...

Basically, what pH should the different MSU formulas come out to, i.e. what is the RO version aiming for, and what are the tolerances of usefulness if we use the well water formula with low dissolved carbonates/calcium/magnesium water etc...

Assuming we start with a little higher pH at the beginning of watering, and over the few days it becomes more acidic as organics in the medium break down, absorption of CO2 etc... what pH/alkalinity should we ideally be shooting for, and what contribution do the two MSU formulas give to the base of water. I never fully understood alkalinity, so if I'm shooting in the wrong direction, or if it's not pertinent, feel free to say so.

After all, I'm a realist, and most people, myself included have lackadaisical culture practices. But... But that doesn't mean I don't want to know what I SHOULD be doing, if I have the time energy I might end up doing it properly, or developing a system which helps me get to that point properly without so much effort...

[Ross]

Yes I measure pH. Mine ran at optimum for RO water plus MSU (5.5-6.5) so I haven't been checking recently. Don't let the bulb dry out. Mine is soaked in buffer solution (soaking solution).

[orchids3]

Here in Florida the humidity is so high that the MSU absorbs water and makes it own "Wet Solution". Is it better to go ahead an mix it up in known quantities? At least you know what you have in the mix. Or is there a secret to measuring wet fertilizer? Jacks does the same thing. It helps to keep Both in a cool dry place in the house. Controlled release fertilizer also needs cool dry.

[Ross]

Originally Posted by orchids3

Here in Florida the humidity is so high that the MSU absorbs water and makes it own "Wet Solution". Is it better to go ahead an mix it up in known quantities? At least you know what you have in the mix. Or is there a secret to measuring wet fertilizer? Jacks does the same thing. It helps to keep Both in a cool dry place in the house. Controlled release fertilizer also needs cool dry.

If you don't open the container, it shouldn't get "wet". But if it does, yes. Mix as per my blend (Ray's recommendation) which is 3.5 cups 'wetted' powder per gallon warn to hot water to make stock solution. For 125ppm Nitrogen you would add 1 tablespoon (1/2 oz) stock solution to gallon of water.

[Ray]

A word about that "nutrient availability versus pH" chart: According to Bill Argo, the guy who came up with the MSU formulation, that study was done with one specific fertilizer and one type of soil, and analysis was done on the liquid that ran through the soil.

The huge variety of minerals and organic matter in soil interact greatly with the fertilizers in them. By contrast, most orchid media do not, to a significant degree, anyway. That means that "if its in solution, its available to the plant".

[newflasker]

Originally Posted by Ocelaris

Newflasker, you said you got a pH of 4.25 with the MSU formula, was that with RO? And was that specifically the Ray's Greencare? Is that what is to be expected?

Hi Ocelaris,

I prepared 1.25 gram/liter my MSU fertilizer with distilled water. pH at 4.25 is too low. I am not sure it's the same with GreenCare or not so I ask for your opinion. pH between 5.4 - 6.0 is good for young seedlings. I have to adjust pH using ammoniac.