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01-09-2020, 12:28 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
Posts: 13,939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subrosa
If the output rate drops while the TDS is still acceptable, and assuming that the inlet temperature and pressure haven't dropped, your sediment and/or carbon filters are clogged.
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Not what I have observed.
I have changed filters and found that the flow rate didn't improve. There's not much stuff in my water - the sediment filter never shows much. The carbon filter doesn't have much to do either. The TDS does increase, but it's subtle... a new membrane puts about 15 parts per million TDS, when it' on the way out it creeps up to close to 30. I wish that the filters were the cause... it's cheaper to replace filters. But I have tried replacing the filters more often, the membrane lifetime is about the same. So no, that's not the issue. I also backwash the membrane regularly, as the manufacturer recommends. The low ratio does cost in membrane life, but I'd rather deal with that than use more water.
Last edited by Roberta; 01-09-2020 at 12:30 PM..
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01-09-2020, 12:53 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,232
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Well, the one pictured is less than ten dollars more than a cheapie one (neither of which I own). So for a few extra bucks, this one would be leashed onto something and I wouldn't have to look for the last place I misplaced it. But is this the right stuff I found that we're talking about?
---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 AM ----------
And the float valve and hydraulic whatchamacallit... do these come with instructions of how to install? I'm not getting how I connect this to my water spigot. Or maybe this all gets put inline with the RO system and the idea is you just keep spigot turned on, like washing machine hoses?
Also as info, when it gets really cold here I have to share that RO spigot with the hose we fill up horse, alpaca, chicken waterers with. So the spigot is single (in a basement utility sink) and has a two way ball cock on it. So when the hose is utilized (through the basement window to back pasture) the RO side gets turned off.
I don't think that would be a big deal if the hydraulic thing and float get hooked in somehow along with the RO tubes. I don't need it to automatically fill up and leave the water spigot turned on all the time. What I need to figure out is how to not have the same mess I had earlier, where I forgot to set a timer and ran 25,000 gallons of water down the basement water drain over a period of almost a week. I want to use it like a "safety shutoff" when I do forget.
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01-09-2020, 12:55 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
Posts: 13,939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
Okay, is this kit I found on Amazon what you're talking about:
Malida 1/4" Tube Float Valve Kit for RO Water Reverse Osmosis System water filter Push to Connect Pipe Hose Tube Fitting
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This certainly works, I got my float valve at Home Depot, they sell them for evaporative coolers. (They didn't have it at my local store, I live in a relatively cool area, but they carry them at stores that are inland that have hot summers... ordered, and picked up at my local store, no shipping charge) It was totally easy to install in my "receiver" drum.. just drill a suitable hole, A nut to hold the valve in place, a compression fitting to hold the water tube.
This is what I use:
Float Valve
Last edited by Roberta; 01-09-2020 at 03:02 PM..
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01-09-2020, 08:02 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,250
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WW - there is absolutely nothing wrong with the "cheapie".
I will be happy to help you install it.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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01-10-2020, 07:49 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Zone: 6b
Location: PA coal country
Posts: 3,383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
Well, the one pictured is less than ten dollars more than a cheapie one (neither of which I own). So for a few extra bucks, this one would be leashed onto something and I wouldn't have to look for the last place I misplaced it. But is this the right stuff I found that we're talking about?
---------- Post added at 10:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 AM ----------
And the float valve and hydraulic whatchamacallit... do these come with instructions of how to install? I'm not getting how I connect this to my water spigot. Or maybe this all gets put inline with the RO system and the idea is you just keep spigot turned on, like washing machine hoses?
Also as info, when it gets really cold here I have to share that RO spigot with the hose we fill up horse, alpaca, chicken waterers with. So the spigot is single (in a basement utility sink) and has a two way ball cock on it. So when the hose is utilized (through the basement window to back pasture) the RO side gets turned off.
I don't think that would be a big deal if the hydraulic thing and float get hooked in somehow along with the RO tubes. I don't need it to automatically fill up and leave the water spigot turned on all the time. What I need to figure out is how to not have the same mess I had earlier, where I forgot to set a timer and ran 25,000 gallons of water down the basement water drain over a period of almost a week. I want to use it like a "safety shutoff" when I do forget.
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There are 2 flow paths through the auto shut off solenoid. One handles the finished water coming out of the unit, which is the one connected to the float valve. The other handles water coming out of the final prefilter stage before it entered the ro membrane. They should be marked, or at least readily distinguishable by comparing the unit to the illustration in the instructions.
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01-10-2020, 09:35 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
Posts: 15,250
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Look at my graphic above. The ports should be labeled “in” & “out”, but I described the connections, as well.
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01-10-2020, 10:16 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,232
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I've gotta get the stuff ordered and here. Then I'll be back with any questions. I'm sure it will be easy install once I actually have the pieces in hand. And a troop behind me to answer questions. Gracias for all the support/help/explanations thus far!
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01-10-2020, 10:30 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Zone: 6b
Location: PA coal country
Posts: 3,383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Look at my graphic above. The ports should be labeled “in” & “out”, but I described the connections, as well.
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One brand I've installed (Coralife if memory serves) marked the ports "in" and "out", but without marking which side of the system was for product water. But the unit is assymmetrical, so by comparing with the illustration the proper hook up became apparent.
__________________
Be who you are and say what you think. Those who matter don't mind and those who mind don't matter.
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01-10-2020, 10:39 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subrosa
One brand I've installed (Coralife if memory serves) marked the ports "in" and "out", but without marking which side of the system was for product water. But the unit is assymmetrical, so by comparing with the illustration the proper hook up became apparent.
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Yes Subrosa... "apparent" being the operative word. You forget who we're dealing with here... ME.
I'm the one who had to have remedial training to learn how to operate those push/click connectors to get my mister set up. What a pro I became by the time I got the RO going.
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01-10-2020, 12:05 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Zone: 6b
Location: PA coal country
Posts: 3,383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWitchin
Yes Subrosa... "apparent" being the operative word. You forget who we're dealing with here... ME.
I'm the one who had to have remedial training to learn how to operate those push/click connectors to get my mister set up. What a pro I became by the time I got the RO going.
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Hahaha! Well that's why friends are for!
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