My Ascocenda (Princess Mikasa) isn't reblooming

[rfalk]

Hi,
I'm new to the forum and to Vanda orchids and I am hoping for some help from the experts out there. I purchased my first Vanda (Ascocenda) about a year ago (in bloom) and have been working to get it to rebloom since. It is in a pot (coarse bark) and it seems to be healthy as I have had about 8" of new (big) root growth and about 8 new leaves. Unfortunately, no new flower spike.

I live in southern Wisconsin and give the orchid as much light as I can (southern exposure) and I even added a grow light for 3 extra hours per day in late winter which has helped lighten the dark green of the leaves. I mist daily and fertilize with 19-31-17 orchid fertilizer. I water twice a week (one soaking, lighter watering midweek). All my Paph's and spider ochids rebloom and are healthy. Indoor temps are between 55-70 year round, however humidity is low. I am running a humidifier and have the Vanda over a water tray and manage to hold the humidity to about 40-50%.

I have noticed that the Vanda's older flower spikes emerged about every other or every third leaf. I have had about 12 new leafs since last spike. Does this mean that something is not triggering flower spikes and all the energy is going to the leaves?

Perhaps I am just being impatient, but any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Bob

[CR7cristiano]

This is kind of in my expertise. First off, this is a strap leaf and the leaves don't necessarily need to be a light shade of green. Here are a few things I would suggest you adjust.
Increase the humidity a lot more.
Switch to a balanced fertilizer 20-20-20; I use tropi-gro orchid plus but i'm not sure if its available outside of Jamaica.
Fertilize every day when the weather in your area gets warm-hot. (Wet the roots first before fertilizing as this will wash away excess salts so you won't have salt build-up)
Provide good air movement and if the weather permits get it outside & hang in a partially shaded spot or sun it outside so it can get full morning sun up until around 10:30am and then provide dappled sunlight after that and if possible full sun after 4:30pm as the setting sun is not very intense. I suggest watering early so your orchid can dry out throughout the day. As long as you water before 9am in the morning & if its really hot you can dampen it between 4-4:30pm.
Make sure it is situated in an area where it can experience a significant drop in temperature between the day & the night. Without this temp range sometimes a vanda will be reluctant to spike.
And most important; be patient. When you adjust your care and it is ready and happy it will spike.
Good Luck; i know you'll get it spiking again.

[WhiteRabbit]

If your window faces due south, that's great light in winter when sun is lower in the sky to yhe south, but not in summer when sun is overhead. A sunnier summer spot might be helpful - or more artificial light.

[Paphluvr]

I, too, grow Ascocenda Princess Mikasa indoors all year in a South facing window. The window, however, is tall and narrow (approx. 6' x 2'). My watering schedule sounds similar to yours and I doubt that my humidity is much higher. However, I think that your temps are to cool for Ascocenda. Mine are 62° F winter nights, 70° days. Summer temps are ambient (no air conditioning). This orchid is currently throwing a spike and blooms for me about 3 times/year.

These plants will flower any time there is enough energy in the plant to produce blooms and when light and temperature conditions are correct. If too warm, they will just grow leaves. Not enough light and there will be poor flower production. Generally, when the temperature at night is in the mid-60's or lower and the days are 70 and above, the conditions for flowering will be optimal for flower spike initiation.

From an E-mail I just received from OrchidWeb.com on growing Vandaceous orchids.

Hope this helps, it's a beautiful flower. Which cultivar do you have? Mine is 'Sapphire'.

[CR7cristiano]

This is correct, higher temperatures means faster growth; that along with higher humidity. Good air movement to prevent bacteria and fungus with the high humidity and cool nights.
60 degrees Fahrenheit at night and up to 95 degrees F in the days.
With such high temperatures fertilizing frequently is a must. Think of it like this; putting the orchid is such conditions plus high light is like giving your vanda a workout, you will need to replenish its exerted energy.

[rfalk]

Thanks to all of you for the advice. I have learned more about this flower from this thread than all the searching I did on the internet.

Paphluvr, I am envious of 3 spikes a year! I mentioned that our temperatures were between 55-70. Rarely do we go down to 55 and more typically night time temps (winter) are about 60 with daytime about 70....sounds like not too far off from yours. I am not sure of the cultivar I have....it is simply labeled "Pink".

Perhaps I will try some added fertilizer and see what happens...otherwise, just wait.

Cheers to you all and thank you!

Bob

[Paphluvr]

Originally Posted by rfalk

Thanks to all of you for the advice. I have learned more about this flower from this thread than all the searching I did on the internet.

Paphluvr, I am envious of 3 spikes a year! I mentioned that our temperatures were between 55-70. Rarely do we go down to 55 and more typically night time temps (winter) are about 60 with daytime about 70....sounds like not too far off from yours. I am not sure of the cultivar I have....it is simply labeled "Pink".

Perhaps I will try some added fertilizer and see what happens...otherwise, just wait.

Cheers to you all and thank you!

Bob

Bob,

Here is a picture of mine from the last blooming.

Ascda. Princess Mikasa 'Sapphire' stem | Flickr - Photo Sharing!