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Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 11 votes, 4.64 average. Display Modes
  #41  
Old 09-27-2007, 09:53 PM
Buds! Buds! is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookiemonster View Post
I got my orchids today, sooner than anticipated AND OH MY GOODNESS~
all of them are in perfect condition, except for the sansai blue- this thing is MAMMOTH ! I kid you not, I was shocked to see how big it is, it seems like it has been through a lot, the smaller plants seem a bit happier and they sent me one in bloom- it was my birthday yesterday and wasnt so great so this definitely compensates! I will probably head out to home depot later and get some supplies to make these babies feel at home, Im very happy and excited but ALSO terrified that I'll kill them, I'll do what I can

I'll take pictures later of the pretties !!!!

Can't wait to see the pics of your set up!
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  #42  
Old 10-04-2007, 11:23 PM
Ocelaris Ocelaris is offline
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This has encouraged me to try the vase method, no vases yet, but it reminds me that Vandaceous species like to have their roots out and about, not in any sort of potting medium. The best grown vandas always seem to have their roots just floating down in the air... so although it seems totally opposite of what I would think to do, I'm giving it a shot.

As for lighting, I have a good amount of experience. If you're handy at ebay, you can find some metal halides in the 100-150 watt range that put out like 9000-12000 lumens, which should be more than enough for a 3-5 foot radius with a good reflector. If anyone is interested, I would be happy to elaborate on another thread. I am a moderator of a forum that specializes in a form of lighting...

I got a 100w Metal halide light for my 2x2' growing area for 25$ shipped (which was a record low price), but none the less, you can find cheap lighting on ebay in the industrial section... The problem with much greater than 200 watt HID (Metal halide, High Pressure Sodium etc...) lights is that they're just too bright in one place... smaller bulbs are easier to handle for our smaller scale setups.

Here is a picture of an Ikea light I made into a HID lamp for our house, but I'm actually using that in my growing area now and the plants seem to love it. Should be able to test how many foot candles I have in a week or so.


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  #43  
Old 10-07-2007, 04:51 AM
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smartie2000 smartie2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocelaris View Post
As for lighting, I have a good amount of experience. If you're handy at ebay, you can find some metal halides in the 100-150 watt range that put out like 9000-12000 lumens, which should be more than enough for a 3-5 foot radius with a good reflector. If anyone is interested, I would be happy to elaborate on another thread. I am a moderator of a forum that specializes in a form of lighting...

How far away do you hang the halide lights for the 3-5 foot radius? I want to get some new lighting, the fluroescent shop lights are driving me nuts! I had to move my growing area and I don't like it anymore.
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  #44  
Old 10-08-2007, 04:49 PM
Ocelaris Ocelaris is offline
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damn, I had a much better response typed up and then it logged me out and I lost it

Anyways, checking out the lighting requirements:

Light Requirements by Genus -

I have a 150w MH bulb, which puts out roughly 12000 lumens starting, which is about /~10.764 (divide by about 10.764) is foot candles, which comes out to 1114 foot candles... This number to me seems very low... The light is damn near blindingly bright even during the daytime... So I think when talking about florescents vs. a point source, you can lower your requirements because they are such a more potent force than the dispersed florescent lights...

my 150w is about 2 feet from the plants at MOST, and I feel it's a ton of light, but when my battery camera comes I will be a better judge.

3-5 feet radius at 3-5 feet would probably be fine with a 250w MH... they pretty much jump from 150 to 250.

Example here is a a 250w Ballast for 10$ + 18$ shipping... bulb will cost you ~30$, and reflector and socket will be another 30$, cords, and a box may be 20$

71A5570-001 Core and Coil Ballast - (eBay item 110157850984 end time Nov-07-07 08:31:35 PST)

So for 110$ you can get a 250w or 18,000 lumen bulb...

Now the trick is to find the pre made fixtures with the socket and reflector built in...

Ok, so this one is a premade setup... everything included, 400w for 110$ shipped...

400 Watt Metal Halide Aquarium Light w/ Choice of Bulb - (eBay item 170156411118 end time Oct-15-07 18:47:36 PDT)

If you have a choice, pick a higher color rendering bulb, and toss the cheapo 60 CRI bulb (Color Rendering Index) as they aren't very good for plant growing... but pretty much any non-frosted 80+ CRI bulb will grow nicely...

Last edited by Ocelaris; 10-08-2007 at 04:52 PM..
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  #45  
Old 10-08-2007, 04:52 PM
Ocelaris Ocelaris is offline
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I will try and make a post later about the different lights you can make yourself out in the general forum because I think it's detracting from this good conversation about vandas in vases...

I kind of "hung" my ascocendas in their plastic containers, put a lid over them, and I'll see how they do, I'm keeping the temps in the 79-82* range and 70-80% humidity... cross fingers.
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  #46  
Old 10-08-2007, 06:06 PM
allaKAZAAM allaKAZAAM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telipogon View Post
I decided to attempt to grow Vandas in vases after obtaining a large Vanda from Burnham Nurseries about 3 years ago (V. Kasem's Delight x Pompimol). I was not expecting the plant to be as large as it is, so i started to realise that i needed to act so as to not allow the plant to dessicate. I bought a vase from my local garden center (the shape of the vase is important, i will come to this shortly), and simply allowed the black slatted basket that Vandas often come in to sit in the neck of the vase with the roots dangling inside. No moss, no pebbles, nothing. Within about three weeks, the root tips of the Vanda had re-activated and started to grow. During the spring just gone, a lot more root tips branched out from the roots the plant already had, and has now flowered twice for me. It is also growing much bigger leaves now and is looking remarkably healthy.
Well I am going to try your suggestion.
I have an Ascda. orglade "Gold Spot" x Ascda bangkhuntien "Fuchs Gold", that I would like to do better (and is small enough to try this out with).
THANK YOU "telipogon" for this info...and I look forward to seeing (hopefully! lol), some great results. Since I do not have the right humidity level for Vandacious Orchids.

Mark

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  #47  
Old 10-18-2007, 11:44 PM
Ocelaris Ocelaris is offline
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I have tried this, with though plastic pots, with a lid, with basically a 2" hole for the plant to come out of, I find that some of the older roots tend to develop mold on them? Has anyone else had this problem?
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  #48  
Old 10-19-2007, 06:48 PM
allaKAZAAM allaKAZAAM is offline
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Default Ah well...

Well,
my little experiment is over.
I think due to my location (East facing window), and not enough direct sunlight...my Ascda. started to get mold growing on the roots (similar to what Ocelaris has stated too!).
So need more hot temperature and sunshine I think...!?

Mark
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  #49  
Old 10-19-2007, 08:23 PM
savor savor is offline
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Just goes to reinforce one of the things that I love about orchids. I will always have someting new to learn about them or in this case their care! 'Got a new wrinkle in my brain today!
It just so happens I have collected some large vases that will do fine.
Excellent article,
Lee

lee@classicorchid.com
Page 1 New Orchid Tour

Last edited by savor; 10-24-2007 at 10:12 PM.. Reason: Flash Intro removed
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  #50  
Old 10-24-2007, 08:59 PM
fragrantphals fragrantphals is offline
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That is great! I actually stumbled upon the same thing - I set my rhyncostylis gigantea atop my terrarium and it is sending out this healthy, fuzzy root into the terrarium! I just wasn't sure about doing this to a vanda. I have a coerulea with bad, partially rotted roots. I trimmed those of and will try this method. Thanks so much!
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