Vanda - Brown roots and tips, hard water, sick, under watering or healthy ?

[Pabsorchid14]

Hi everyone, I’ve seen some brown spots on the roots of my Vanda. I have not checked if it has expanded but to seems the same as it was a few days ago. I have been using tap water that comes from a well, so no chemicals in that water, it has more calcium tho. I’m not sure if that’s the problem, as the root feels hard and plump it’s just the discoloration. I was also thinking it could be shriveling due to improper watering (Daily with atomizer probably 3 minutes until all roots are green and dripping). I would also like to point out I mentioned the water because I read somewhere that toxicity could turn the tips of the roots brown.

One more thing regarding the flowers, other than this Vanda the only orchids I e seen with flowers are phalaenopsis, so my question is do these flowers look affected by botrytis, bugs or something else or just mechanical damaged, maybe from rubbing against the metal wire or dehydration?

Settings - outside hanging from ceiling, plenty of air circulation and light, temp 22-32 C humidity around 50 , at night 15-19C. It gets plenty of light around 25-30k lux and also some direct sun for about an hour or so from 4:30-5:30 ish is this all right ?

[DeaC]

Hello. I'm no xpert and have only grown mine about 2 yrs but your plant looks very healthy. Think we have similar growing conditions which they love. Me,not so much. Beautiful blooms and plant.

[estación seca]

I think it looks good. How long have you had it?

[Pabsorchid14]

For about 4 months now, but recently changed to current location due to lack of light.

[SouthPark]

Originally Posted by Pabsorchid14

For about 4 months now, but recently changed to current location due to lack of light.

Were the flower spikes/buds developing before the change of location? Or after the change in location?

And how recently was it roughly? eg. days?

A change of location can mean significant change in 1 or more conditions. So if the bare root orchid was doing well in a particular spot (also taking into account watering, or even no watering), then the orchid may need time to get its internal systems operations adapted to the new conditions.

Also - there are lots of roots on the plant. So just observe whether the discoloration just remains on 1 root, or whether all roots are affected.

For flowers - try to keep them dry as possible.

And does the orchid get fertiliser and/or mag-cal treatments?

Also - is the well water from an artesian water source?

[Roberta]

The roots look fine. They get those spots on the roots sometimes, seems to do no harm. In photo 6 there's a tiny black thing that could be a thrip but hard to tell. (I get them all the time... spray when I see them, because they fly, never get rid of them more than temporarily) I have not found them to be much of a problem with Vanda flowers because of the heavy substance. (They are rough on Cattleya and Cymbidium flowers, don't seem to harm the plant) But it looks to me like you have a very nice, healthy plant with beautiful flowers.

[estación seca]

Yes, if it looks that good, you are taking excellent care of it.

[Pabsorchid14]

I made the transition ,slowly, about a month and a half ago (6-7 weeks)as the buds were growing. The well I believe it’s not artesian. I don’t currently use any fertilize as I haven’t been able to find one with clear labeling and instructions, but what kind of fertilizer or ratio would you recommend ?

[Roberta]

Vandas aren't particularly fussy about water quality. As for what kind of fertilzer, a delighful and very good grower who alas is no long with us, when asked, said "Whatever is on sale". For orchids, just use about 1/2 of whatever it says on the label. (Vandas are also fairly heavy feeders, so you don't have to go more dilute for them) If you get a balanced fertilizer (all 3 numbers the same) it should be fine... for very pure water (like rain water or reverse osmosis) there are specialized formulas. for tap water/well water the exact formula is less important.

[estación seca]

A grower in Florida, Martin Motes, wrote in his book that at the base of the newest developing leaf there should be a light green zone of about 1cm width when fertilization is proper. If the zone is less than 1cm, fertilize more. If the zone is more than 1cm, fertilize less. It is difficult to capture in a photo but very obvious to the eye.

More fertilizer can mean giving fertilizer more often, or a higher concentration in the water.