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  #1  
Old 10-28-2017, 02:13 PM
charlesf6 charlesf6 is offline
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---------- Post added at 01:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 PM ----------

main growth:


2nd growth:
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2017, 02:34 PM
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Hi Charles - How long after these two plants arrived did this began? Were they shipped moist? What have your temperatures been? Has it rained on them? The care you need to do now has been covered in the other thread.
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Old 10-28-2017, 02:46 PM
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I am sorry you have another having the issue. How do you fertilize this? Are you adding extra Calcium? I always treated mine like the large Cattleyas that bloomed once a year. I fertilized lightly every week starting in February/March when I saw new growth and gave extra Calcium, flushed well once a month, tapered off the fertilizing after July and stopped completely after August. In wintertime, they like cooler temperatures, bright light, drier conditions and no fertilizer during the winter months.
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Old 10-28-2017, 03:04 PM
charlesf6 charlesf6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca View Post
Hi Charles - How long after these two plants arrived did this began? Were they shipped moist? What have your temperatures been? Has it rained on them? The care you need to do now has been covered in the other thread.
The 1st one happened within a week or two from it's arrival. Were not shipped moist. I might have had it outside in the light too suddenly.

the 2nd (my favorite one) Himeseikai I just noticed this a.m. I may have been watering incorrectly I was not soaking from the bottom up as I am now doing.
Temps have been above normal outside for the most part, brought inside recently where it has been 65-70.
water schedule has been 6-9 days roughly.

Do you really think I need disect and rewrap as I did to
Amanogawa? I would rather not have to do that thing.

Last edited by charlesf6; 10-28-2017 at 03:07 PM..
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2017, 03:33 PM
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estación seca estación seca is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesf6 View Post
The 1st one happened within a week or two from it's arrival. Were not shipped moist. I might have had it outside in the light too suddenly.

the 2nd (my favorite one) Himeseikai I just noticed this a.m. I may have been watering incorrectly I was not soaking from the bottom up as I am now doing.
Temps have been above normal outside for the most part, brought inside recently where it has been 65-70. water schedule has been 6-9 days roughly.

Do you really think I need disect and rewrap as I did to
Amanogawa? I would rather not have to do that thing.
What you show isn't related to light. Crown rot in Neos is usually caused by being wet and cold at the same time. Night temperatures are the issue this time of year. I suspect your night temperatures are already cold enough you should be on a winter watering regime, which means the root ball should be crisp dry by nightfall. Soaking from the bottom up is not safer than drenching the whole plant when nights are cool to cold.

I don't recall where you live, but I looked up the past month's weather in Buffalo. Nights there have been chilly enough for about a month that I would have been keeping my plant bone dry, not watering the moss, only spritzing the exposed roots on mornings of warm days.

But, when it's warm, like in summer.... If you water in the morning on a warm day, you can completely submerge any healthy plant in a bucket of water and not worry about rot. With proper growing conditions there should be no need to submerge only the moss and keep the plant dry. I have never once seen rain fall only on the roots of some plant people say needs to be watered from the bottom.

When I get a rot problem I default to the method most likely to save the plant. Yes, I would unwrap right now this instant, 2:30 pm on Saturday afternoon your time. I personally would not put your plants back into moss balls. This method may work well in Japan, but perusing Orchid Board demonstrates a lot of people in the US kill Neos trying to use this potting method. I would bare-root the plants, or put them into very coarse bark.

Once you figure out how to keep them alive, then go for the decorative display. Remember staying too dry will not kill the plant, but staying too wet kills it quickly.
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2017, 04:05 PM
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speaking of Amangawa:



Its just that this plants (the Himeseikai) 1st growths roots look so healthy still?
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Old 10-28-2017, 04:40 PM
jkofferdahl jkofferdahl is offline
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Heartbreaking, Charles! Crown rot in Neos, as ES stated, comes from being wet and cold more than most else. Still, I think your plant is recoverable.
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Old 10-28-2017, 05:28 PM
charlesf6 charlesf6 is offline
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Heartbreaking, Charles! Crown rot in Neos, as ES stated, comes from being wet and cold more than most else. Still, I think your plant is recoverable.
So dissect then...?

---------- Post added at 04:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:49 PM ----------

Himeseikai uncovered 10/28/2017

bad growth?:




new growth:


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  #9  
Old 10-28-2017, 05:44 PM
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The new growth is viable. Almost all the time rot limits itself to the one growth at first. I think you caught this one early enough the rot has not spread.

The original growth might survive and branch from below, or it might be a goner. Sometimes the central meristem is not dead and it will grow again from the center, but this doesn't happen often.

I would pot them up or set them in vases separately.
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Old 10-28-2017, 06:31 PM
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Don't know what happened. To keep it from spreading, dab with rubbing alcohol (or cinnamon concoction-recipe at Rays).
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