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  #11  
Old 08-14-2014, 12:43 PM
s.kallima s.kallima is offline
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Matt, it is very difficult to save a plant that is strongly infected, but it is possible. If you have something like Cleary 3336 or Banrot. You should treat at least twice in the next 2 weeks. Then if the plant is still alive, give it some rooting hormones (or kelp) to help grow new roots.
Also keep it far away from other plants ! Good luck!
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  #12  
Old 08-14-2014, 01:57 PM
MattWoelfsen MattWoelfsen is offline
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I have Cleary 3336, so I will apply this chemical to this poor plant. Thanks for the additional advice to isolate it. It has been in a tray of seedling Neofinetia. The other plants do not have this disease, but just in case I am going to zap everyone else in the tray. This plant is in a little clear plastic cup with top. The device is acting like a terrarium. I thought the problem was it wasn't getting enough moisture or humidity, so I put it into this cup.

S.kallima to the rescue! I removed the dying fan, soaked the surviving plant in Thiomyl (generic for Cleary's). I replaced the sphagnum moss.

Crossing all of my phalanges that this one recovers! This is not a very expensive plant but if I can get this one to survive, it will be a highly valued plant. Before I put it in this grow space, I noticed that the survivor had a small root nib.


Last edited by MattWoelfsen; 08-14-2014 at 07:31 PM..
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  #13  
Old 08-14-2014, 11:59 PM
rangiku rangiku is offline
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Thanks for this info s. kallima. I've had a few Neos die from this and thanks to you, know now how to try to treat this.

Last edited by rangiku; 08-15-2014 at 12:02 AM..
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2014, 06:05 PM
s.kallima s.kallima is offline
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Yes Matt it looks exactly like the part you have on the front of the picture . The infected growth can stay green for months (but will look dehydrated) and turn brown only when it is dead. As I said I noticed it starts with the roots, turning dark grey/brown and hard dry. The roots only turn mushy later on when they are completely dead and when watering the medium.
I now spray preventively my culture area, plants and media with a weak bleach solution (one once per gallon) and treat with Banrot every two months or so.
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  #15  
Old 08-16-2014, 06:09 AM
MattWoelfsen MattWoelfsen is offline
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Opinion on this blemish. These black spots appear on leaves, they never go away. What could be the cause of these black spots? How do you prevent them from occurring? I'll try your (s.kallima) bleach spraying regime and also the fungicide program.

Note: I consider Neofinetia to be "easy" to grow. But I spend a lot of time and effort caring for these plants. Despite my efforts, these things like fusarium, or these black spots happen. I do not spend as much time with other plants, and they don't develop problems. I wonder if I am spending TOO much time on Neofinetia?
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Last edited by MattWoelfsen; 08-16-2014 at 06:18 AM..
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  #16  
Old 08-16-2014, 07:38 AM
Jayfar Jayfar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattWoelfsen View Post
Opinion on this blemish. These black spots appear on leaves, they never go away. What could be the cause of these black spots? How do you prevent them from occurring? I'll try your (s.kallima) bleach spraying regime and also the fungicide program.
May or may not be this fungus, which is particularly common on Vandas: Phyllosticta Leaf Spot | AOS.org

Quote:
Pyllosticta leaf-spot fungus (Phyllosticta capitalensis) spreads easily and causes unsightly blemishes on the leaves of orchids. It is most common in warmer climates, but can be found throughout the world on a number of different types of orchids. This blight is also known as Guignardia; the names apply to two different sexual stages of the same fungus. Dendrobiums and plants in the Vanda alliance are most prone to this fungus.

[snip]
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2014, 08:49 AM
MattWoelfsen MattWoelfsen is offline
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Thanks Jayfar. How can it be that I have the two most dreaded fungi known to Neofinetia? So, I'll spray all of my plants with Thiomyl. I think I'm going to re-pot my plants with fresh NZ Sphagnum moss. At least those with desiccated and decayed moss. I think this fungi presented itself due to rain and cool summer overnight temps.
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2014, 04:20 PM
NeofinetiaCanada2014 NeofinetiaCanada2014 is offline
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What I do for fungal is to unpot plants from moss, spray plant with 3% hydrogen peroxide first, then remove all affected roots and leaves, dip entire plant in hydrogen peroxide, wait 10 min and then dip in physan... and repot in new moss. Then I treat them as seedlings for a few weeks until I see it stabilize. I may redo the spraying with peroxide ... I water with seaweed and super thrive weakly weekly


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  #19  
Old 08-21-2014, 04:21 PM
NeofinetiaCanada2014 NeofinetiaCanada2014 is offline
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This saves about 80% of plants. Vigilance is the key. As soon as u see this, treat ASAP. I have lost plants when I thought I would treat another day


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  #20  
Old 08-21-2014, 04:23 PM
NeofinetiaCanada2014 NeofinetiaCanada2014 is offline
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And isolate them for at least 2 months until no symptoms show... To prevent this prophylacticly I make sure plants are dry by night fall with fans on 24-7


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