Loading pics and then I'll add the narrative.
Basic ingredients: a mold, foil and a polymer clay (I use katoclay)
Wrap the mold in the foil-- you do this so that the mold can slide out of the pot when its ready. I made the mistake of not using something like foil and ruined the pot and nearly lost the mold.
Smooth the foil to limit the lumps. If you roll the mold wrapped in foil on the edge of your table or counter top, it'll turn out pretty smooth.
Take whatever polymer clay you use and work it until it is about the thickness of pie crust, or that is a few millimeters thick. Think enough to handle without it folding in on itself. This is the difficult part-- you must have a large enough piece that is uniform in thickness to be able to gently wrap and stretch the clay over the mold.
Pull and gently wrap the piece around the mold-- go slowly. It can get too thin and tear so be mindful and take it slow.
ok-- so the clay is wrapped around the mold-- now we have to trim it up. Allow it to overlap and take a sharp knife or razor blade and cut vertically. Remove the scraps-- don't wait too long, polymer clay likes to bond to itself without much work.
The seam should be clean and should line up perfectly since you cut the overlap. Lightly and gently nudge the two pieces together and it will pretty much seal-- however, in order to make it less visible, you'll need to rub with as much force as necessary to "smudge" the clay back and forth up and down the seam to obscure the seam. If you have a lot of lines like the one in this photo, take special care to try to make the lines seem more natural-- it doesn't always work but minimizing the discontinuity will always help.
Cut out the space for the drainage hole (honestly the only way to get a good clean cut here is to go slowly and make one continuous cut.
This may or may not be needed. In this case, I'm making a small pot for bean leaf miniatures and so I cut the top off to make it a better size. Again, one continuous cut is best.
FIRE THE POT AT THIS POINT: firing it at this point keeps it from getting damaged during the rest of the process.
Two main types of feet-- these plank-looking ones and others that look like actual legs squatting under the pot.
Tabs for the feet. To make the animal-like feet, I will choose a larger piece of worked clay and cut it into three pieces with one being slightly larger (I'm told the front leg that is presented is always a bit larger). I will roll it into an almost cone shape, affixing the larger end to the base of the pot and then form a sort of "S" shape with the remain bit. Rub the edges in to the pot to attach it and once all three animal feet are on, flip it over and gently nudge it downward, guiding the feet as the "S" you made collapses into legs that look like they are bearing a tremendous weight or are squatting.
The three pics above show a rope rim being made-- simply roll two pieces of equal thickness and length out-- or mix it up by having one small or thicker. I will cross the one end at a near 90 degree angle and hold that end up, I swing the loose rope around the rope I have in my other hand and allow it to wrap itself around that other rope-- it makes the rope fast, easy and uniform. Roll it on the counter or table in opposite directions (the two ends) to make the rope as tight or as loose as you want it. Now measure it to your pot and cut off the ends you dont need and fit the two ends together so they look seamless. Take the prepared rope rim and from bottom to top, slide the rim over the pot and into position. Here is where I recommend having another piece of foil on a pain as you will gently push the rope into the side of the already-fired pot. It won't be strong this way but once it is fired again, you will adhere a small "bonding" strip of clay as a finishing touch to hide the inside rim of the main pot and to make it look better.
FIRE THE ENTIRE POT WITH RIM AND FEET AT THIS POINT. I do mine for 15 min to 1 hour depending on the thickness of the clays being hardened. If you have the big hefty animal legs, fire it longer. 310F for Katoclay.
UPCOMING: I'll show you the finishing touches. From the benefits of light sanding to making lattice to leveling your pot if you SWORE it was level before firing and now its not and because the clay is hard, you can't fix it...OMG. Check back later for those updates and I'll do my best to have them ready soon than later!
********Q&A*******
•Rebecca in another post asked when I fire my pots. I make the body and then fire it. Attach the feet and rim and fire again and then will do touch ups or if the rim is a rope or not attached too well ill add another strip of clay and blend it in and I will fire it once more.
•Firing multiple times does NOT ruin the clay. In fact I imagine it strengthens it further though probably not by much. But t won't hurt it.
--Two questions...
What size is this pot? (H" x W")
And, how many oz. of clay did u use for this pot? (your best estimate). Islandgirl-- the sizes vary. The larger ones you've seen are roughly 4 inches wide, the smaller are 2 inches wide. The bigger ones around about three inches high and the smaller vary but around 2.5 to 3 inches high. The smaller one this this tutorial is barely 2 inches tall. For the larger pots, they weigh roughly 5-7 ounces when complete and the smaller guys are barely over 2 ounces-- so pretty small!
--Do you fire it on the mold?-- Quay, yes I do. The clay will become very soft in the fire process and it needs support from the mold so it doesn't malform or cave in. Once the body of the pot is fired, I can often remove the mold and leave the foil inside and that is often enough to keep it from caving in on subsequent firings. If the pot is big, I will stuff the inside of the pot (with its foil lining in place) with more foil or scrap foil for extra support.
Neo pot tutorial
to the 
When there's something strange, with your Neo-pot, who ya gonna call? ...The Pot Master! 
(Ghostbusters) 
So I was trying to make my pot like a normal pot. 
Linear Mode
