New to Neos - Potting question

[xFl]

Hi! I just ordered two Neofinetias to try for the first time - 'Higashide Miyako' and 'SHUTENNOU'. I'm wondering what the opinion is on potting them in the traditional moss ball, vs a bark/orchiata mix?

My experience primarily is in phals and oncidium alliance orchids, for frame of reference. My understanding is they need more light and more aeration than phals?

Thank you so much in advance!

[estación seca]

I recommend you learn to grow them in a medium to large bark mix. It's a lot easier to keep them that way. When you have an idea of how they grow you can consider the other method.

The biggest problem we see people reporting here is keeping them too moist and cold in the winter. They tolerate being dry for many months just fine. They tolerate being quite cool when very dry. But some people water them during cool weather, and that often kills them quickly.

[Roberta]

I agree with ES, large bark is great. REmember, these are little Vanas, so need to dry out. I use loosely-packed sphagnum in baskets (net pots) - so again, they dry quickly and get lots of air around their roots. The traditional moss mound is tricky, and needs to be re-done every year. Much higher maintenance (and a critical part of that is a hollow pocket in the middle, which you can't see, but without it they will die) So go for "easy" to start out - well-drained, fast-drying medium.

[Shoreguy]

Read my sticky, second from the top of page. Another big issue is watering frequency which is hard to answer as it depends on more variables than you can imagine, one trick which can be developed from experience is feeling the weight of the pot. Also somewhat less in the winter but not totally dry.

Temperature and light are other issues which you have lesser control over.

I cannot give any more answers than this. You will learn from experience and are guaranteed to make more errors at first.

[Dulcinea]

I have neos in spaghnum, we’ll potted with hole up through center. I’ve had them over a year and no blooms. They were all about 6-8’ from S and W facing windows. I’ve just moved them to a half bath with a skylight. They are not in the sun but very bright. No heat vent in that bath. The heat comes from the room it opens into. It will stay slightly cooler in winter now. Usually water when very dry, sometimes when not totally dry. The don’t bloom!

[Roberta]

With the brighter light you improve your odds of blooming. Mine do most of their blooming in July or August, so maybe next year. There are some varieties that are shy bloomers, so be patient!

[Dulcinea]

How bright can they take? Inside getting sun on them? Will the cooler room be good in winter? It will probably be 65°.

Thank you Roberta!

[Roberta]

If the direct sun makes the leaves hot than it's too much. But they can take quite bright. (Mine live outside under 60% shadecloth in summer, I move them to a shady area in winter not so much for the shade (which they don't need, they would actually be better off with more light but I want to keep them a little drier). They can be quite happy to near freezing in winter if dry. Your cooler room would be good... and if near a window so they get even more cooling even better. They didn't get central heat when the Samurai grew them in Japan.

[Shoreguy]

They can take some direct sun, a little anthocyanin shows the plant is protecting itself. 65 is fine in the winter.

You seem to be on the right track. The plant will bloom when it wants to, often difficult to determine what triggered it.

[estación seca]

My one flowering sized plant blooms in May or June near a window that gets several hours of summer morning sun, and more winter sun when its track is below the roof overhang. The rest of the day it's in very bright Arizona shade. Cattleyas near it flower for me.