Neos the require strong light patterns to show

[K-Sci]

These are the Neos I'm growing outdoors allowing some direct winter sunlight. They will come indoors soon. Temperatures will dip to 36°F (~2°C) tonight, the large Neos with Amami genes may object.

Akogare - Yellow tiger stripes on new leaves that quickly fade to green (normally). The ruby red stem coloration will not develop without strong light.

Izumibotan/Kingyokubotan – Yellow leaf bases and red-brown coloration along the stem. The colors don’t develop well unless light levels are high.

Karanishiki - Creamy yellow tiger striped banding that may disappear completely or fail to develop with moderate or low light levels.

Kinkujaku – Yellow tiger variegation that develops when the leaf is a months to a year old. It will not develop a clear yellow without strong light.

Kogane Nishiki – Yellow tiger variegation becomes brighter with high light levels.

There is a pattern I didn't notice until I wrote this post. These are all yellow Neos with yellow tiger or tiger-like yellow banding. I'm sure there are more like these. Please post them. If you think I'm wrong on any of the above, please share that too.

[Shoreguy]

Here are my Neof. Karanishiki and Kinkujacu.

They get moderate to strong natural sunlight, no supplemental artificial lights except unavoidable as they are grown entirely indoors.

[K-Sci]

Originally Posted by Shoreguy

Here are my Neof. Karanishiki and Kinkujacu.

They get moderate to strong natural sunlight, no supplemental artificial lights except unavoidable as they are grown entirely indoors.
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Both your Karanishiki and Kinkujaku express their variegation beautifully.

I have no idea where the line between high and low light levels is. I suspect it varies by variety.

What do you consider moderate to strong natural light?

When I first started collecting consideration for light levels didn't occurred to me and was not mentioned by my supplier (there was only one). At the time I was growing in a greenhouse with diffused light, some surrounding trees, and with light decreased further by almost continuously overcast Seattle weather. The light levels were neither very high nor very low. I'm in central Mississippi now, where it is sunny a lot, but also sizzling hot in the summer.

I have not had my Karanishiki long enough to have had time to experiment with light levels. I have read that Karanishiki is temperamental about light levels and requires an optimal amount of light to grow well. Too much light results in leaves becoming a solid creamy yellow, causing the plant to lose them early. In dim light the banding doesn't develop, whatever that means.

My Kinkujaku looks much the same as yours, though it is considerably smaller. It too is a relatively recent acquisition. I only recently increased the amount of light it receives. It is now getting several hours of direct sun/day growing outdoors.

Do you think either of these plants should be removed from the list?

[Shoreguy]

Both plants receive light through a bug screen with south to west exposure.

In the winter moderate sun on sunny days for about two hours shaded about 25% by vertical blinds and spring through fall 3 hours on sunny days shaded by 60% by vertical blinds. Blinds are adjusted manually and adjusted by amount of clouds.

You are at a lower latitude so burning might become an issue.

[K-Sci]

Originally Posted by Shoreguy

You are at a lower latitude so burning might become an issue.

This is definitely the case in the summer. My Neofinetia would burn in minutes if I put them out in the summer sun with our all too common 95F daytime temperatures. here in central Mississippi. This time of year it is cool, 65-75F during the day, 45-55F at night. There is always at least a littler breeze and the sun is at a low angle, so I let them have sun for most of the day. Only Hisui and Byakko seemed to suffer. They dropped some lower leaves when I started giving them this much sun, so I started limiting their exposure.

It don't leave these neos out in the rain because the sphagnum would become sodden. When rain (or a hurricane) is predicted I move them to under the eves.

I should have my greenhouse up by mid-winter, but will have to bring all my orchids indoors well before that. I don't want to expose the Neos to frost and night temperatures below about 45F. Most would be fine a few degrees colder, but the amami-kei varieties might suffer.