Thank you so much for all the information! Have given me a few things to re-consider, and yes I shall not be rushing this project in any way.
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Originally Posted by Trollsvans
A few thoughts:
Are the tanks framed? If they are, I'd say it complicates things a bit (when getting a waterproof seal along the top rim of the tank).
Glassy plastics like polycarbonate and acrylic don't do well with moisture: they expand on the wet side and flex.
For aquaria this is rarely an issue due to the thickness, but I don't think you'll want it that thick for a canopy.
I have 3 mm pmma for my vertical plantation, and it bends visibly when I water it. It's a 60x60 cm footprint and in five minutes it transforms from a flat piece to a parabolic wok pan: it's cracked in three places due to the tension.
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The tanks have those plastic bases, and the smaller has a plastic top rim, but other than that they are unframed. Though it may be possible to carefully remove the top edge of the plastic…. Maybe!?
This is good information regarding the Polycarbonate and Acrylic, something I was not entirely aware of, and a little surprised at this as Polycarbonate is often used in greenhouses and even conservatories. Mind you was also reading that it has to be replaced every 5 years or so, which was making me question my choice of material. Now however, definitely considering not using Polycarbonate. Glass, like you mention, may indeed be the best option. If the cabinet is, as the tanks are now, in the corner of a room it would also mean that it would potentially only have to have glass on the 2 visible sides.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans
A structure fitting on the outside of the tank will draw moisture by capillary action; it'll get stuck between the structure and the tank and either degrade the wood sealant or worse: degrade the cabinet.
This is critical if you go with a misting system.
(see image "leak.jpg")
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Good advice and a concern.
If you visit DavBis’s thread, likely you have already.
Warm orchidarium 750l
This is more how my mind was starting to wander with the design, so the tanks would end up being open topped within the entire structure. Two sides visible, two sides not.
Was thinking of making it wider on two sides (L shaped), this in turn means the need for proper drainage system including taps is also in consideration. Creating a system that prevents too much excess (or stops any) water getting to where it may cause problems, and keeping the moisture in the places where I want it to remain. May need to create a lip, or small guttering system, around sides of the tanks to address this concern.
But as you mention, protecting any wood used from soaking up moisture, warping, rotting etc., is something I really need to get right in the first place.
I know that Acrylic paint once dry is pretty much water-proof. A paint stained pair of craft trousers has been through over 10 years worth of washes with the paint streaks remaining unabated has proven that to me! Though I can be pretty certain that it will be flexible but not crack like thicker sheets of Acrylic & Polycarbonate glazing, I do not know with certainty how well it would stand up to this type of environment on a continual basis. Considering experimenting with small pieces of plywood covered in acrylic paint (as well other protective substances) and placing them directly in water over time – this excessive exposure may be a good way for me to compare options and as this is not planned for this year will certainly provide plenty of time to test various products.
I have even been pricing and researching up on Aluminium sheet materials, which if nothing else may provide a flexible enough material to work with, which can be placed on the top of the base cabinet. It does however produce a new set of considerations regarding final construction,
Aluminium Corrosion Resistance - Aluminium Design
One of the aspects of the design I am also considering is the ability to dismantle and reassemble the sections (at least partially). Would mean all sections would have to fit exactly, protection of susceptible materials paramount, but would also allow for replacement of parts rather than a full reconstruction potentially a viable option. Rubber seals would then have to be considered though. So if one section of it starts to fail, I would not necessarily have to replace the whole structure. The base cabinet however would remain solid in design & build, as it would be the foundation for the rest of the structure. If I go with this option however, it brings up other designs aspects to consider and I will have to make sure that I do not lose the final plans.
It may sound weird but it's in my head (terrible place), please excuse the ramble.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans
In Sweden the two-component epoxy varnish Epolan V is most popular (it's a floor varnish, actually), I'm not sure whether that's the type or a local brand though.
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Thanks for the tip. Can’t seem to find this product in the UK, so may be a brand only found elsewhere. But there should be equivalent products available here. Will just have to do some digging, was even looking at Yacht Varnish for the base cabinet, so may just have to revisit that avenue of investigation also.
Yes, I will be heading to the local Aquarium & Reptile store for a good chat with the owners, as well as doing more checking up on the various aquarium societies and forums before I finalise any aspect of this project. “Seal all edges with epoxy varnish!” Got it, will do!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trollsvans
Adjustable feet might also be a good idea, in part to get the cabinet surface absolutely level, in part to make sure it doesn't skew diagonally.
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Good advice, the floor it will be on is solid concrete but not certain that it is entirely level. Don’t want to end up with something that resembles the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Thank you so much again for all your comments, advice, images and links.
A lot to consider and plan around, but it keeps me from terrorizing the neighbourhood at least!

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