Mine get nowhere near those kind of lights but still blooms reliably.

On the other hand, my tetrapsis hasn't done anything since it's first bloom shortly after arriving a few years ago, only maintains its status quo. Yours (speciosa perhaps?) is lovely.

I'm thinking about temps. Aside from heatwaves in the Summer, I probably keep my tetrapsis (and a couple of hybrids) too cool. My Cornu and hiero seem to enjoy the cooler conditions (low 60s-high 70s °f, mid 80's heatwaves).

Some are on my kitchen windowsill, the rest under lights. I have a large number of equestri as well.

In my experience, cornu-cervi goes almost dormant in the winter, and usually start budding in May or June. As a Spring bloomer I'm sure the plant is effected somewhat by cooler nights through the Winter but I don't ever give mine a dry spell - those I have mounted are watered 1-2 times each day while those in post are watered as soon as they dry. I do absolutely nothing to initiate blooming, and, frankly, think that the "cool spell" theory for Phals is nonsense. Phals bloom when they darn well feel like it. If you're hitting it every day with even a mild amount of fertilizer then I'd suggest using water at least 5 of the 7 days of the week, and don't be at all shy about how much you use. A mounted plant can't be overwatered.

And, by the way, depending upon the type of light you use, you can indeed give Phals too much light. I use T5s, and they could easily burn a cornu-cervi to ashes.

Thanks for your input! If anyone else has success with lower temps with cc I might give it a try if the recent light increase doesn't trigger anything.. I'm hoping that by the time this new leaf is fully grown maybe I'll get a spike!

As for your tetrapsis/speciosa... Mine grows like weeds! As of now it matures a new leaf every more or less 2 months and every time pushes a new spike while sending flowers on older ones. It gets summer temps H25-32C/L20-25, somewhat hight light (i grow under lights), enough to show veins and turn slightly paler green, humidity around 50-85%, is mounted on cork with a fair amount of spagnum moss, enough to keep it moist for a day or 2 max. Winter it gets H22-25/L20 with lower humidity, 40-60% and still keeps the same growth habits, maybe a dash slower. Hope that can help you.

---------- Post added at 06:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

Completely agree with you on the cold nights... I believe once they matured about 3 leaves... They re normally ready to set their spike.. I never gave cold nights to initiate bloom, and everything always blooms (except this cc).

I'll look forward to seeing a spike next spring! Thanks for your feedback.

I use LEDs, Ikea Vaxer e26 10W.. I strongly recommend them, so far getting amazing results specially considering the price point! I could perhaps burn them, but I'd need to be stupid to do so, I think anything under 6 inches should always be safe! Anyway you need to pay attention and listen to the plant, it will show signs if not happy!

I think the cooling nights period is for the amabilis, schilleriana, stuartiana type hybrids, not the warm-growing ones.

In my experience, my amabilis, stuartiana Nobilis, schilleriana all set their spikes this year in the hottest September month we've had in years... I'm talking days over 30C and nights rarely below 27C. But every plant reacts differently in different conditions and it's a known fact that some plants react to changes in light or temps by initiating blooming, going dormant, etc. There's definitely nothing crazy about that, but I feel people put too much attention on these things when in reality it might not be needed. Last time I tried to initiate blooming on a stoburn equestris by giving it a few weeks of cold nights (windowsill in freezing outdoor weather, temp was probably 15C), I badly damaged a few leaves and it did not bloom, all it did is slowed down its growth... It did bloom however a few months later when it was ready!

Sometimes stressing a plant will make it bloom as a survival mechanism... But to what cost?

---------- Post added at 07:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------

I also remember reading on ranwild.org that bellinas need nights cooler then 20C for a few weeks to bloom. And that temps above 25 will discourage it. I never tried to provide this, yet every year it spikes about the same time.

We need to keep in mind that often this data is provided based on plants in their natural habitat, which is not the case for most of us.. they adapt in most cases to our conditions and trying to provide what they'd get in nature might not help them if they come from a flask! Just my 2 cents and personal observations.

---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 PM ----------

Sorry getting side tracked here lol.. thanks everyone for your input, I think I know what my cc needs... Which is nothing but my patience lol.. when this happens I just get more plants to keep me busy and stop thinking about this nonbloomer

Happy growing :)

Well well, this guy is not a dub afterall... After a massive root explosion causing false hope of a spike every other day in the past weeks, I finally have a spike emerging! Not sure if I can attribute it to the slight increase in light, but it's definitely tolerating it and I now can look forward to seeing this guy in bloom in maybe 2 months, if the spike doesn't stall halfway...

3 long months later... 2 spikes, one open flower and more to come! It's got a nice added bonus, I can detect fragrance already, the flower just opened overnight.

https://s14.postimg.org/ie3jf1i0h/20180223_093718.jpg

https://s14.postimg.org/vi93rzpkh/20180223_093336.jpg

https://s14.postimg.org/xmtgt6edd/20180223_093753.jpg