Phalaenopsis gigantea - long term growing project

[camille1585]

Nice looking plants Keith, they've grown well for you!

I have not noticed that my gigantea spends more time inactive than other Phal species. I get 1 or 2 new leaves per year, though it seems to take longer for the leaf to fully develop (not surprising given the leaf size!). My impression on growth rate is that they grow at a similar speed as other Phals, but because they need to be much larger in order to bloom, they need to produce more leaves to get there which adds years to their juvenile phase...

What have other gigantea growers noticed in terms of growth rate relative to other Phal species?

[Mr.Fakename]

Originally Posted by desirue

I had posted in the beginner thread regarding a question about my Gigantea Alba about repotting due to some questionable media it was in. I did end up repotting it early last week. It seems to have taken to the repot and new medium really well thankfully. Its new leaf is still steadily growing and a new root and what I think (hope?!) is a flower spike started to poke through as well. It's hard for me to get a good picture of it with my phone; I may try again later tonight in better light. But I'm excited nonetheless, even if both are roots.

That thing on the right certainly looks like one to me! Some people will be jealous if that's the case

Originally Posted by K-Sci

The temperature was running 95F day/75F night at the time of my first post/pictures of these three plants. The temperature is now about 75-80F days with 60F nights. This will most likely end up being around 70F daytime and 55F night in mid-winter. I have some misgivings about letting phalaenopsis get this cool for a month or two so I'll be watching these plants very closely.

When I took the plants back inside for winter time, nights were around 55°F/13°C with occasional dips around 10°C.
I was a bit afraid at first but with decently warm days, they were happily growing and spiking.

Originally Posted by camille1585

I have not noticed that my gigantea spends more time inactive than other Phal species. I get 1 or 2 new leaves per year, though it seems to take longer for the leaf to fully develop (not surprising given the leaf size!). My impression on growth rate is that they grow at a similar speed as other Phals, but because they need to be much larger in order to bloom, they need to produce more leaves to get there which adds years to their juvenile phase...

What have other gigantea growers noticed in terms of growth rate relative to other Phal species?

My big gig took a rest after maturing its last leaf, but now it's cranking up a new one super fast.

The smaller took no rest whatsoever and keeps sending new leaves before the previous is even done.

At this point I don't know if a 'resting' phase is mandatory for adults, if it depends on genetics (gigantea have small regional variations, it may come from that? Or simply good/bad strains?), or if I don't provide what the big plant wants.

[tmoney]

well, i for one am jealous anytime someone gets flowers! so, thanks for that, desireu

i wish i had more data points (i.e. more plants) for comparison, but our only species gigantea seems to be a slower grower. it has continued to make its newest leaf bigger, but very slowly it seems compared to our other species phals. but again, this is only anecdotal and observational, i haven’t taken any measurements. the hybrid seedlings we have are for sure growing slower than other seedlings, as it’s easy on them to see when a new leaf comes on and their growth rate. of our 5 seedlings of gigantea hybrids, only 1 has started growing a new leaf, and it is absolutely creeeeeping

[Shadeflower]

I wish you luck guys. From what I have seen the gigantea is quite picky about the care it gets.
I always thought phals were easy but warm growing phals I haven't quite figured out yet. I'm presuming there won't be much difference in care between a bellina and a gigantea?

Keith my warm growing phals I wouldn't let go under 65F

My supermarket hybrid phals can handle 55F but ideally 57F minimum. Those couple of degrees make a difference.

[K-Sci]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

eith my warm growing phals I wouldn't let go under 65F

I may regret the lower temperatures, but I don't want to heat my greenhouse above 60F at night. If I see problems developing I'll bring them indoors, but they will be a bit crowded if that becomes necessary for many. All but one or two of my phals are in flower or spike. One even has 5 spikes, but if it starts dropping buds that will be a sure sign that it needs to be warmer.

-Keith

[Shadeflower]

If it helps you can get these vegetable cold frames that are made out of doublewall polycarbonate sheets.
I know it might seem like a ridiculous idea but a bit of insulation on the bottom with a cold frame will add a few degrees. In summer it would not be needed of course but the cold frame would heat up additionally during the day and keep things a few degrees warmer at night. It really will make a small difference for very little cost.

[K-Sci]

Originally Posted by Shadeflower

If it helps you can get these vegetable cold frames that are made out of doublewall polycarbonate sheets.
I know it might seem like a ridiculous idea but a bit of insulation on the bottom with a cold frame will add a few degrees. In summer it would not be needed of course but the cold frame would heat up additionally during the day and keep things a few degrees warmer at night. It really will make a small difference for very little cost.

I don't think this would work here in Mississippi where soil temperatures at night normally remain higher than the ambient air both in and outside an enclosure. As a result, the concrete floor and brick house walls of my (lean-to) greenhouse tend to provide warmth at night. The heat loss at night is primarily through the glass and air infiltration. At this point, the heat is off during the day because outside temperatures are high enough along with heat from the sun, but I'm sure this won't last. The coldest winter lows here are almost never below 15F.

-Keith

[desirue]

Originally Posted by Mr.Fakename

That thing on the right certainly looks like one to me! Some people will be jealous if that's the case





When I took the plants back inside for winter time, nights were around 55°F/13°C with occasional dips around 10°C.
I was a bit afraid at first but with decently warm days, they were happily growing and spiking.






My big gig took a rest after maturing its last leaf, but now it's cranking up a new one super fast.

The smaller took no rest whatsoever and keeps sending new leaves before the previous is even done.

At this point I don't know if a 'resting' phase is mandatory for adults, if it depends on genetics (gigantea have small regional variations, it may come from that? Or simply good/bad strains?), or if I don't provide what the big plant wants.

Alas, they are roots but I'm perfectly fine with that.

[K-Sci]

Originally Posted by Mr.Fakename

When I took the plants back inside for winter time, nights were around 55°F/13°C with occasional dips around 10°C.
I was a bit afraid at first but with decently warm days, they were happily growing and spiking.

I did exactly the same at the same temperatures the three years prior to this year. Both spikes and flower count were very good, though my favorite phal (Cleopatra) that gave me three spikes last year has five now.


Edit: Bringing them in when it starts to get to 55C is a bit different than growing them at that temperature for 3 months or so. I guess I've find out.



-Keith