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  #1  
Old 06-16-2013, 07:28 PM
Cintirella Cintirella is offline
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this will help you get started. Orchid Fertilizer and Light Levels | River Valley Orchidworks
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2013, 06:03 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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The yellow edges are normal for its type. It shows a tiny bit of variegation.
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2013, 06:42 PM
bellatrix bellatrix is offline
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Yay; thank you!
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:47 PM
bellatrix bellatrix is offline
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That link was extremely helpful to me. Thanks for posting that, Cintirella.
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:15 PM
dreamynights dreamynights is offline
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Hey Guys,

My orchid has been doing well for the most part since I last posted. It started growing a new leaf and lost an old leaf. There has also been LOTS of root growth with at least 5 new ones from the crown and lots of older roots splitting into multiples.

About a month ago, I noticed that my orchid was leaking a bit of sap under the leaves. These areas turned into small, slightly black spots though which I thought was weird. Sorry for the blurry photo but the first one (2705.jpg) shows that there are at multiple small black areas along the edge of the plant leaf. It has since stopped and I am thinking it just turned black from being too wet there?

I still had small bug problems but have just been trying to kill all the ones I see. When I water the plant, I will also try to drown them out and kill them. I have been thinking of using dish soap to try to kill them but I am unsure how to use it. I heard of spraying it but it does not seem like that would get the bugs from under the roots. Could I use a drop of soap to water the orchid and then rinse the soap or would that harm the plant?

My major problem here today though is that there is WHITE FUZZ all over the crown! I had previously cut the dying leaf at the bottom but could not completely remove it as it wont peel from the plant. I watered the orchid three days ago and today I noticed the white fuzz all over the dead leaf! I had watered extra last time to try to drown out of the bugs but I have always dried the crown area afterwards and have no moss around the crown to keep it dry. These do not look like mealy bugs to me and looks more like mold. Screenshots are attached! How should I try to get rid of this? Alcohol or hydrogen peroxide? Help!
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2013, 02:14 PM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamynights View Post
Hey Guys,

My orchid has been doing well for the most part since I last posted. It started growing a new leaf and lost an old leaf. There has also been LOTS of root growth with at least 5 new ones from the crown and lots of older roots splitting into multiples.

About a month ago, I noticed that my orchid was leaking a bit of sap under the leaves. These areas turned into small, slightly black spots though which I thought was weird. Sorry for the blurry photo but the first one (2705.jpg) shows that there are at multiple small black areas along the edge of the plant leaf. It has since stopped and I am thinking it just turned black from being too wet there?

I still had small bug problems but have just been trying to kill all the ones I see. When I water the plant, I will also try to drown them out and kill them. I have been thinking of using dish soap to try to kill them but I am unsure how to use it. I heard of spraying it but it does not seem like that would get the bugs from under the roots. Could I use a drop of soap to water the orchid and then rinse the soap or would that harm the plant?

My major problem here today though is that there is WHITE FUZZ all over the crown! I had previously cut the dying leaf at the bottom but could not completely remove it as it wont peel from the plant. I watered the orchid three days ago and today I noticed the white fuzz all over the dead leaf! I had watered extra last time to try to drown out of the bugs but I have always dried the crown area afterwards and have no moss around the crown to keep it dry. These do not look like mealy bugs to me and looks more like mold. Screenshots are attached! How should I try to get rid of this? Alcohol or hydrogen peroxide? Help!
That white fuzz is fungus. Change the potting media out and clean the plant up. Do not put moss in the pot. Use a pair of small surgical or cuticle scissors to get rid of that dried petiole. Increase air circulation.
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Last edited by King_of_orchid_growing:); 07-08-2013 at 02:17 PM..
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2013, 01:47 PM
Tatika Tatika is offline
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Hello everyone! I received an orchid that was really sad and its roots were very dry and had some spots that were black (from utter lack of water i assume). I started feeding it schultz orchid food once every 10 days, and it is sprouting a ton of roots! some of them are growing downward into the "woodchip" medium, some upwards and some out of the planter. Also, it is growing loads of leaves as well.

I suppose my question is, what do i do? Do i repot it? do i cut off the dry, sad roots? do i just leave it be? Please help, i dont want to do anything to kill this baby, It really seems to look better. All it needed was love
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2013, 04:27 PM
Talila6 Talila6 is offline
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Wink Sad roots on phalaeonopsis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatika View Post
Hello everyone! I received an orchid that was really sad and its roots were very dry and had some spots that were black (from utter lack of water i assume). I started feeding it schultz orchid food once every 10 days, and it is sprouting a ton of roots! some of them are growing downward into the "woodchip" medium, some upwards and some out of the planter. Also, it is growing loads of leaves as well.

I suppose my question is, what o i do? Do i repot it? do i cut off the dry, sad roots? do i just leave it be? Please help, i dont want to do anything to kill this baby, It really seems to look better. All it needed was love
It would leave the old roots, unless they are really rotten. The inner threat like cores of the old roots still provide some support to the plant.
Don't be in a rush to repot, unless the mix is really old and decayed.
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:59 PM
derv88 derv88 is offline
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Originally Posted by Talila6 View Post
It would leave the old roots, unless they are really rotten. The inner threat like cores of the old roots still provide some support to the plant.
Don't be in a rush to repot, unless the mix is really old and decayed.
Is this a fact? Why is the rule of thumb to completely cut off the rotten roots if this is the case?
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2013, 02:37 AM
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King_of_orchid_growing:) King_of_orchid_growing:) is offline
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Originally Posted by Talila6 View Post
It would leave the old roots, unless they are really rotten. The inner threat like cores of the old roots still provide some support to the plant.
Don't be in a rush to repot, unless the mix is really old and decayed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derv88 View Post
Is this a fact? Why is the rule of thumb to completely cut off the rotten roots if this is the case?
To answer derv88's question in context with Talila6's response...

Do also understand that by posting this I do not mean to make anyone feel unintelligent or offend anyone. I'm only providing evidence for what I know is based on truth. And derv88 requested the facts.

Forgive me if I'm misinterpreting what was said in the previous posts, and do feel free to correct my interpretation of the posts if it is incorrect, but here it goes...

I cannot currently find any evidence that supports the idea that a dead orchid root can still transport water to the rest of the plant. In fact, according to repeated firsthand horticultural experiences, I find the contrary to be true. From several of my observations, dead orchid roots do not provide water to the orchid. I currently have a couple orchids that have such damaged root systems that they are practically hanging by a thread. The leaves show clear signs of dehydration and loss of turgidity due to severe root damage.

You gotta remember what constitutes a living orchid root.

1. A spongy outer layer called velamin.

2. A thin layer of skin cells called the epidermis.

3. A thick layer of cells called the cortical layer (aka ground tissue). It is also simply known as the cortex.

4. The vascular bundle that consists of xylem and phloem, (basically speaking).

These tissues work in tandem to keep the plant "happy".

That stringy part of a dead root are the remnants of the plant's vascular bundle.

While xylem may not be living tissue, it may not be as simple as, "even when the roots were still alive, xylem still consisted of non-living cells, so xylem must still be able to transport water when the roots are dead, right?"

There might be a bit more to it than that, idk. And the reason I don't know is because I haven't taken high level botany courses before, so the depth of my understanding as to how xylem and phloem works is kind of limited.

I will however take this opportunity to post a video that somebody else made that will give some insight on a plant's vascular tissues.

This is a video that explains the basics of plant nutrient and water transport via xylem and phloem:



In a dead root, I doubt the xylem and phloem are functioning as they would normally function when the root was alive.

If someone was able to cite several specific reputable sources that can provide enough evidence to support the claim that even dead roots can still transport water to the shoots of an orchid, then and only then can I truly believe that this claim is true. Until then, I'm not inclined to put much weight in the idea that dead roots can still transport water to the orchid.

As far as I know, the only thing that dead roots would provide for the orchid, is a point to anchor the orchid into the pot.


Q: Why would anyone recommend or advise someone to remove dead orchid roots then?

A: Mostly in order to prevent pathogenic fungi or bacteria from having a place to grow and proliferate, thus leading to the prevention of further root damage/death.

The second answer is aesthetics, which leads to the hobbyist having varying degrees of piece of mind, (depending on the situation).

Thirdly, it gives the hobbyist a clearer understanding of just how many roots on the plant are alive and functional in order to provide the appropriate pot size for the plant.
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