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04-14-2015, 08:42 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 141
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Semi-Hydro question for a phal that is about to be transplanted
Hello all,
I have a question; I have some phals that I need to move into semi-hydro after they finish blooming, they are now planted in bark.
I have moved phals before into semi-hydro from sphagnum while in bloom and they are doing very well.
If I move the phals from bark into semi-hydro, and place a clear bag over the entire plant and pot, and seal it to preserve high humidity; could this help with the transition?
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04-14-2015, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Location: Kansas City, MO
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Wait to transfer to s/h until you get new root growth from the base of the plant.
Growing in moss is not too far off from s/h as the roots stay moist.
Joann
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04-15-2015, 03:06 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoi2
Wait to transfer to s/h until you get new root growth from the base of the plant.
Growing in moss is not too far off from s/h as the roots stay moist.
Joann
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Thank you Joann,
I am well aware of the timing and the importance of the roots emerging from the rhizome.
My question was; would a bag that is placed over the pot and tied securely ofeer a more stable environment for the transition between the bark and semi-hydro mediums? since the roots aren't that well in bark, and they are box stores phals.
Thank you.
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04-15-2015, 03:39 AM
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I think you would restrict any air movement by securely tying the bag. Why not spray the top of the leca daily if it dries too quickly? Or water daily until the new roots get established.
Bill
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04-15-2015, 04:03 AM
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Semi-Hydro question for a phal that is about to be transplanted
Good luck!
Last edited by MattWoelfsen; 04-16-2015 at 08:03 PM..
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04-15-2015, 04:18 AM
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If you're worried, maybe start the phals off in LECA + a normal pot. After awhile, water them more frequently. Find a second pot, or container that the first pot will fit into. Start leaving the plant sitting in the water (keep the roots above the water level.)
If you think they'll be okay, you can start them off sitting in water. If something goes wrong, you can take them out of the second container though.
I'm doing this with my phals that were in moss, but I have (potting media + watering method) commitment issues. So far, they seem happier! I'm using slotted pots inside a container that is 1/2" bigger. I take the inner pot out to flush it with distilled water, and I dump out the old water.
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04-15-2015, 08:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
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Inverting a bag over the plant and pot is a great idea, as it maximizes the RH% around the plant, slowing water loss while it gets acclimated. Don't seal it up, though.
The "lack of air movement" is only an issue if the plant itself is wet.
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04-15-2015, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Inverting a bag over the plant and pot is a great idea, as it maximizes the RH% around the plant, slowing water loss while it gets acclimated. Don't seal it up, though.
The "lack of air movement" is only an issue if the plant itself is wet.
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Thank you Ray; I am going to take your expert advice.
I am waiting until the blooms fall off, and then transfer the phals into semi-hydro, since all my orchids are in semi-hydro and doing superbly great; but this is the first time I transfer phals from bark, usually I do from sphagnum moss, and they never skip a beat.
What about the light? do I give them normal light while being bagged?
Thank you again!!
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04-16-2015, 09:07 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
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I usually reduce the light, but keep them especially warm - especially in the root zone - by setting the pots on a heat mat.
The theory being that warmth accelerates the plant's metabolism, and focusing it on the root zone, while reducing the light input to the leaves, favors root growth over leaf growth. I know the warm-root-zone part is true; the low light part might be BS.
On the other hand, reducing the light prevents overheating the leaf tissue, but that certainly shouldn't be an issue for normal phalaenopsis light levels.
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05-31-2015, 02:37 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
I usually reduce the light, but keep them especially warm - especially in the root zone - by setting the pots on a heat mat.
The theory being that warmth accelerates the plant's metabolism, and focusing it on the root zone, while reducing the light input to the leaves, favors root growth over leaf growth. I know the warm-root-zone part is true; the low light part might be BS.
On the other hand, reducing the light prevents overheating the leaf tissue, but that certainly shouldn't be an issue for normal phalaenopsis light levels.
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Hello Ray,
Hope you are well.
A quick question if I may.
How long should I keep the bag over the plant?
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