Inconsistent info on dendrobiums in S/H

[greenpassion]

I am confused by the varying info I find regarding how to care for dendrobium kinganium. I purchased my first-ever den. this past spring. It was just s few canes, but quickly took off in the leca. I grow it with my phals under natural color led grow lights . The problem is that it's put out only keikis, with one tiny flower, and that one flower will not open up. The seller told me I have to put it where the temps are around 40 degrees, for several mths. I live in Vermont, and keep my house temps at 60 thru the winter-so I placed it in a closed off room (no heat) and the temps stay around 45-50 degrees. He said it's producing multiple keikis and no flowers because it's too warm at 60 degrees. Well, it's been several weeks and still no change. I've allowed the water in the reservoir to dry (no water was also suggested) but I'm now reading that I shouldn't have it in such cold conditions. I have stopped fertilizing, and when I do rewet the medium, I use only the ro water I make myself. ?????

[PaphMadMan]

I think it is way too soon to expect a change. You have to give a plant appropriate conditions through a complete growth cycle to know how it will really react. If you got keikis instead of flowers in the current round of growth that isn't going to change until the next new growths mature. Normal time for peak blooming is March, but if your plant has been confused by wrong temperatures or sudden changes it may take a year for it to get back on schedule. Den kingianum needs very different conditions in winter vs. summer so don't be confused if temperature recommendations vary. 45F at night is fine in winter, but days should be warmer even then. But no matter what the calendar says if the plant is in active growth it needs conditions to support that - and if it is dormant then cooler and dryer conditions.

[Optimist]

I've seen the temp at "under 50" not necessarily "40"


Do you have a basement? A root cellar?

[Leafmite]

I had read somewhere that they could take temperatures just above freezing...no they can't! I left mine out and temperatures got down to 38'F...I hurried out to get it but...too late. Live and learn.

[WhiteRabbit]

Mine grows outdoors year-round, taking down to freezing for short period (sheltered, and kept drier). Mine also begins spikes (nodes swelling) by late summer / early autumn.

I don't know how cool they need to get to spike, but since mine has nodes swelling at the end of summer, or early autumn, I would guess night temps in the 50s. I also get a few more spikes in spring/summer tho far fewer than in autumn/winter.

If yours is growing with Phals, it may not be getting enough light during its growth period (spring, summer); These like a fair amount of light while growing.

If you are able to, perhaps you could try growing it outdoors from mid-spring into autumn, for as long as temps allow.

Also, are you sure you have keikis, rather than spikes? Are there visible roots? Distinct leaves forming? If not and they are growing from nodes beneath and inbetween leaves, they might be spikes.

[POLKA]

For kingianums, even more light while going cooler and drier.

I grow mine with the Cattleyas, and it blooms like clockwork in Dec/January. Mine are elongating spikes. It bloomed in May/June for the first time this past spring (it was very mature, needing repotting).

Making keikeis in kingianums are usually caused by 1) too much nitrogen late in the season; 2) genetically some are predisposed to making keikeis. Any kingianum can and will make them, but the fertiliztion schedule you use can make it more or less a problem.

Be patient -- lotsa light, water, and fert WHEN GROWING -- little or no fertilizer after terminal leaf shows, but as much or more light.

Again, be patient -- the fragrance is intoxicating!

Any dendrobium in S/H is no different than regular culture -- you should base your watering, fertilizing on time of year, which means light and temps for that season. When the terminal leaf arrives, cut back on the fertilizer, and water according to need of the culture you use. Plenty of air movement always. You should be able to bloom any dendrobium with these ideas in mind.

Hope this helps
Take care
May all your orchids bloom like crazy!
Rex

[greenpassion]

Thank you all so much for your replies: )

[Aluka]

I was told that instead of letting it dry in the winter months, just don't fertilize during the winter. I have been filling the reservoir with just water the last month.

[mtorchid]

Originally Posted by Aluka

I was told that instead of letting it dry in the winter months, just don't fertilize during the winter. I have been filling the reservoir with just water the last month.

I've heard that works too, just stopping the fertilizer. I do cut back on water a little bit though. I was just in the Caribbean during their "dry season" and there's plenty of humidity and the occasional brief shower. Even though the monsoons have stopped, there's still some moisture available for the roots.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Aluka

I was told that instead of letting it dry in the winter months, just don't fertilize during the winter. I have been filling the reservoir with just water the last month.

You should never "fill the reservoir", but every watering should be a full-out flush of the entire pot.