Different pots for different folks (and orchids)

[mtorchid]

I've noticed that people with S/H questions often mention just "pot" or "container" as though there were just one type. It seems the most referenced is the standard 2-hole, 1" up from the bottom plastic pot like Ray sells, but there is also another type, more expensive, that is a 3-piece setup with water gauge. (both attached)

When I started experimenting with S/H about 3 yrs ago, I stumbled upon the 3-piece units, and as a newbie, that was probably the best way to start. With directions, I knew how high to fill the outer reservoir (with no holes in the outer pot, I was in control of the depth/saturation) and I knew, depending upon the orchid, how low on the gauge to go before re-watering, which was a great help for a newbie at the time. Think of it as S/H training wheels! ;-)

Since the 3-piece cost for a 6" pot is $13-$16. (Kelly's Korner and Hydro-Orchids) vs. $1.75 for a single 6" S/H container (at Rays), I gradually moved to the single pot system. With experience, I've learned to judge moisture levels by weight in the opaque pots.

However, one nice thing about the 3-piece gauged pots is I can put them at the very back of the shelf (with the other container types nearer the front) and tell at a glance if they need water by looking at the gauge. I don't have to wrestle them out to take a peek.
Marc

[Button]

Thanks Marc! I've never seen those pots with the gauges before, really neat.

[mtorchid]

Yes, Button, they are unique. One of the suppliers, hydro-orchid, includes a water gauge level instruction book for various types of orchids. I think that's only included in the "starter kit" which also includes the 3-piece pot, rooting hormone and the clay pellets. The outer pot is more aesthetically attractive than the standard plastic S/H pots. Don't know why Firstrays doesn't carry them, perhaps the expense.

[Charlaux]

Would this type of work for phalaenopsis as I think they roots needs to see light right ?

[mtorchid]

Actually, the roots don't need to perform photosynthesis, but they can. The 2 phals I have in these type of s/h pots also put out an abundant amount of "aerial" roots. Since the water reservoir can be filled to any height, it's important to not fill it too much and to let the reservoir almost dry out to avoid root rot.

[Paul]

I've known a number of s/h'ers who -- for a cheap single pot set-up -- use tall deli containers or the like. Quite simple to drill or melt the desired holes at the appropriate height from the bottom.

[DelawareJim]

I use both systems mentioned at the beginning of this thread. I've learned that over time, the 3-part hydroponic system really causes problems with orchids over time. Since they have no drainage, fertilizer and mineral salts build up over time damaging roots and eventually burning the plant. Remember that since most orchids are epiphytes, in the wild the roots get flushed every time it rains and nutrient levels are very low, so there is no salt buildup. Semi-hydro mimics that since there are holes near the bottom of the pot and it is flushed when you water. You still need to flush periodically even with semi-hydro though because of the reservoir still holds a fertilizer solution.

Now I just use the 3-part system for house plants since they are generally more salt tolerant.

I also use deli containers for semi-hydro since I would recycle them anyway. Only problem with using deli containers is they get brittle if you move your plants outside since there are no UV stabilizers in the plastic.

Cheers.
Jim

[mtorchid]

Yes Jim, that's true re the 3-part system if the interior culture pot is never removed for flushing the mineral salts out with a water stream. The inner pot has multiple drain holes/slits, so it's fast and easy to flush.

The advantage of the 3-part system is that the water reservoir can be adjusted to whatever is best for the orchid- the likes to stay moist types are higher, likes to dry out types lower. The only way to accommodate that with pre-existing drain holes is to water more/less often. Both ways work, but the latter is more "hands on".

Also, with deciduous dens, it's easy to flush/water the roots/LECA and just put the plant/culture pot back into the reservoir pot with no water in it. Just enough humidity to keep the plant alive but also keeping it on the dry side for its "winter rest" period.

---------- Post added at 07:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 AM ----------

That would work too Paul, since you're in control of the level of reservoir water by placement of drain holes. It's easy to get spoiled by that water level gauge, though- no guesswork re watering! ;-)

[Aluka]

I use clear plastic cups for the small orchids and tall deli containers for the big orchids, works fine =D

[mtorchid]

Aluka- inexpensive and practical, a good combination!