Need a boost - Orchid Board

jmmehler · #1 01-09-2014, 11:40 AM

I converted all my Phalaenopsis (about 30) to semi hydro, between September and November. At the time, a good many of them had very bad root systems. All the plants are doing well. 11 have spiked, (7 with double spikes).

I noticed that most have developed some very fat air roots, but only a few are developing roots in the hydroton. Some do not appear to be developing any new roots at all.

I have fertilized, weakly, a few times. I do not fertilize often, because in my winter set up, I do not wish to flush the pots out. I'ce used Orchid Love (emulsion & kelp) a few times, and had sprinkled some rooting hormone in the hydroton.

My set up includes about 12 hours per day of t5 HO flouresent lighting, and I measure about 12,000 foot candles of light using the Iphone app GreenThumb.

So the question is, Why am I not developing a stronger root system in the medium?

yousillygirl · #2 01-10-2014, 12:51 AM

With my phals, it took me around 7 months to get any new roots at all in s/h (just getting them now). Like you, my transplants were made at a time when the plants weren't doing too well - my guess is that a plant which is in sub-optimal shape at the time of the switch is just going to take longer.

My other orchids in s/h (dendrobium, brassavola, oncidium) started producing roots within 2-3 weeks but they were in much better shape when I converted them.

Good luck!

seaj · #3 01-10-2014, 01:15 AM

Maybe some bottom heat will help things along. It definitely helped my phals with the the transition.

Ray · #4 01-11-2014, 10:35 AM

First let me state that semi-hydroponics is neither the "be all, end all" method of orchid culture, not the ideal way to rescue a damaged or weakened plant.

That said, the fact that roots are not growing in the pot suggests there is some aspect of the pot environment that is not favoring it.

I suspect it is temperature - moist LECA has a LOT of surface area, and that means a lot of evaporation, and THAT means evaporative cooling. Seaj's suggestion of bottom heat is a good one. Set the pots on a seedling heat mat, and it should make a huge difference.

You might want to treat them with a stimulant like KelpMax, to further encourage root growth.

Tabbyblack13 · #5 01-11-2014, 11:42 AM

I use a rooting hormone on all of my orchids to give them a boost. I am also looking to get a heating mat for my orchids. I have started the s/h and I've noticed a lot of condensation inside the pots but they are cool to the touch.

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jmmehler · #6 01-11-2014, 12:24 PM

Here’s my setup. Half of the basement (14 x 10) is enclosed, and has HVAC. Temperature ranges from 63 to 81 degrees (went as low as 58 during the latest cold snap) every day. Humidity ranges from 38 to 47 percent every day. I am working on trying to increase the humidity. There is a room humidifier and an oscillating fan running 24 hours per day. Last week I installed a large plastic 27 gallon storage container, filled with water, with an aquarium heater set at 89 degrees, and two large air stones. The expectation is that this will add to the humidity in the room.

There are 3 sets of 15 x 48 x 72 inch stainless steel shelf units, with a shelf on the bottom, middle and top. The top and bottom shelves are for stability only. Lighting consists of 4 ft 4 lamp High output 54 watt fluorescent fixtures on a pulley system hanging from the top shelf. Each fixture has 2 grow (6000k), and 2 bloom (3500k) lamps and is set on timers for about 12 hours per day. I measure about 12,000 foot candles at the level of the plants.

There is also a 15 x 60 inch table with the same type fixture hanging from a light stand, but all the phals are on two of the shelf units.

Here are the theories I am pondering.
1) Some of the phals have developed the fattest most beautiful air/surface roots I’ve ever seen. This may be due to the twice day misting. If I stop misting, this might force the roots into the hydroton. Same goes for the plants that haven’t produced any visible roots.
2) The way I’ve been getting my phals to start blooming, is leaving them out on the porch early in the fall to get some cooler weather (never below 40 – 45 degrees). After a couple of weeks, I bring them in, and within the next couple of weeks, the spikes start to develop. I was thinking of ‘chilling’ the none bloomers for a couple of weeks again to see if that will wake them up.