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  #21  
Old 12-01-2013, 01:09 PM
nlm2951 nlm2951 is offline
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What I did was start drilling in a 45degrees, as you drill you start going you are going notice the glass color change, and then you start to drill in a 90 degree, once you see cutting go a little faster, use water while you cut. norma
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  #22  
Old 12-01-2013, 03:03 PM
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Ray Ray is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabbyblack13 View Post
I bought a circular diamond drill bit from Lowes yesterday on my Black Friday adventure. At Ross there was a basic drinking glass and a pilsner for the experiments. Today I worked on drilling on the glass containers. I broke the first of each type but managed to get the trick of drilling on the second one. There was some cool looking vases but they were too big, for now.
It appears that the holes are too big - they appear to be almost the same size as the LECA.

You really should limit them to two, 1/4" holes, as close together as possible.

I also think that phal is planted too deeply - it looks like the crown is level with the LECA.
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  #23  
Old 12-01-2013, 05:12 PM
Tabbyblack13 Tabbyblack13 is offline
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The holes are 3/8 inch because that was the smallest bit I could find at the time. As for the distance apart I was reading that when cutting glass do not have the holes be any closer then 3/8 of an inch to keep the glass from breaking. I checked and nothing but the smallest pieces are coming out of the holes. The material looks like it's between 1/4 to 3/4 of an inch and the majority is at least 1/2 inch.

I did remove some of the material from the top away from the crown of the plant.

And since I cleaned out my fridge I found an old bottle I want to try.

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  #24  
Old 12-01-2013, 07:57 PM
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I had trouble when drilling glass and trying to put the holes too close. What I've done since then, after numerous experiments, is only put one hole in when I drill glass. Then again, I just watch when watering to assure there's not a major block. Doesn't seem to matter much with glass medium instead of plastic. And have been known if anything gets plugged up, to take a shishkabob stick and poke down, push around, and all is good again. Having said that... I don't have hundreds of orchids and watch each one when I water.
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2013, 11:11 PM
Tabbyblack13 Tabbyblack13 is offline
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I think the pilsner glass will have to be done again. I will only do one hole and make the hole higher up. I think the reservoir needs to be bigger on that type of glass.


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  #26  
Old 12-04-2013, 08:15 AM
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Once daylight arrives, I'll take a pic of a similar glass (but plastic) that has a thriving orchid in it. It's a phal if I remember correctly. Anyway, the reservoir is smaller which is a pain, but only for me because I have to top it up a bit in between regular waterings of all.
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  #27  
Old 12-04-2013, 11:37 AM
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Default Picture of glass



Daylight now.... here 'tis.
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  #28  
Old 12-04-2013, 11:45 AM
Vanda lover Vanda lover is offline
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I sometimes use plastic crystal vases I find at dollar stores or clear plastic canisters. If you don't like the look of the container you can always set it inside another more decorative container. I use a soldering iron to melt holes.
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  #29  
Old 12-04-2013, 11:47 AM
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PS Here is pic of diamond chip hole bit I use. Were I smarter, I'd have put it in first picture. AA battery is there for size perspective.

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  #30  
Old 12-04-2013, 12:52 PM
jmmehler jmmehler is offline
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I use the plastic containers popular for take out soup by many asian restaurants. I just googled Asian restaurant supply, and found one. I buy one 50 container sleeve at a time for about 6 - 8 dollars. For saucers under the s/h containers, I use the flimsier 1 1/2 inch high containers from the deli section of local grocery stores. They always let me have them for free.
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