Back to Bark? - Page 4 - Orchid Board

WaterWitchin · #31 11-12-2013, 09:36 PM

I have no greenhouse. ALL mine are in LECA, including and especially phals. Very new to this hobby, about four years or so. They all go outside from around April then come inside somewhere in late October, depending on the year/weather.

As I've grown to over 40 of 'em, I keep looking for better (read: easier) ways than schlepping to the sink. A work in progress... but it matters more for you to love the ones who love your conditions, or be willing to bend toward their will.

Yeppers, the "back to bark" is surely a thought-provoking thread.

AnonYMouse · #32 11-12-2013, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenpassion

Wow. Lots of response to the 'Back to Bark' question. In reading the latest, it occurs to me to ask, what are the growing conditions that most of you have? From the sounds of it, many of you have a greenhouse, or a set up that is close to that condition. As for myself, my orchids are in my living area, and in no way in greenhouse conditions. OMG! If I could have something like that, I'd have 40 orchids, not 20!

My growing conditions are windowsills, book shelves, heat mats and desk lamps.

Don't know how many plants I have. I refuse to count them.

greenpassion · #33 11-13-2013, 10:56 AM

Anon y Mouse, how long does it take you to flush and feed them all? I found with watering the ones I have in bark it is much faster. I have around 4 phals and 3 oncs in bark, and all the rest are in S/H. It takes me an hour min. if I do the two (the glass shelf under the track lighting and the ones on the plank in window sill culture) all at once. I've taken the suggestion from another poster here to split them up, and it does seem more manageable. I need to really take the time to re read some of the posts on this thread-I don't know if I've come across a post that describes the method of (or the practicality of ) how to change back from S/H to a dry mix.

Vanda lover · #34 11-13-2013, 11:44 AM

I wouldn't want all of mine in s/h, but some of them really love it. Like my phrag. It is worth it to keep some in s/h. I did at one time have most of them in s/h, but now I'm more selective about which ones I put in it.

AnonYMouse · #35 11-13-2013, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenpassion

Anon y Mouse, how long does it take you to flush and feed them all? I found with watering the ones I have in bark it is much faster. I have around 4 phals and 3 oncs in bark, and all the rest are in S/H. It takes me an hour min. if I do the two (the glass shelf under the track lighting and the ones on the plank in window sill culture) all at once. I've taken the suggestion from another poster here to split them up, and it does seem more manageable. I need to really take the time to re read some of the posts on this thread-I don't know if I've come across a post that describes the method of (or the practicality of ) how to change back from S/H to a dry mix.

Probably an hour or so.

My Phal cornu-cervi spike was failing so I moved it and most (4/5) of my Phals into dry LECA and they seem to be doing good. I see nice bright green root tips.

Depending on what plants you want to un-S/H, you can just drain it like Rosie said earlier. Even without a reservoir, there is quite a bit of moisture retention going on in the plastic pot.

jmmehler · #36 11-19-2013, 01:15 PM

I converted to semi-hydro last August. About 35 Phals, 12 Catts, and an assortment of Bulbophyllums, Oncidiums, Encycliads and a flask of Vandas and Cattleyas. I even put some Hydrotone in the 3 inch slat basket that holds my B. Nodossa.

My setup is 3 stainless steel shelf units and one 66 inch plant table, all with high-output 4 lamp T5 54w florescent fixtures. I have one additional 4 lamp T8 fixture for lower light. All lights are on timers. These are all in an air conditioned (and heated) basement.

There an oscillating fan running 24/7. There is also a humidifier, which constantly has to be refilled with RO water, and tends to linger around 47% except on rainy days.

All the pots sit in small containers, from the self service deli-counters of the local super markets. These small containers catch the overflow from watering, so that I do not have to move the plants.

After 4 months, the Bulbophyllums are not doing so well. I was concerned about the Phals, (as I am a chronic over-waterer) so I started misting all the plants twice a day. After 2 months, the new roots are sprouting like crazy. I am also entering the blooming phase, and at least 8 of the phals have developed spikes, and several more are at the point where I’m sure they have spikes, but there is a very small chance that they are roots.

I’ve been slowly killing all my Cattleyas. For the first time, several of them are starting to thrive. Nice plump, healthy pseudo bulbs. I have 4 very small cats in 3 inch clay pots that are in a bark mixture. I am now misting them, especially the clay pots, twice a day. Theory here is to see if they can get their moisture from the air, and not from contact.

I had acquired a very neglected flask of Vandas and another one of Cattleyas. Got a couple of Ray’s smallest pots for some, but when you are dealing with a 1 inch plant, I felt that the pot needed to be more to scale. Found the PERFECT solution. The clear measuring cup that comes with the 160 oz laundry detergents. One has to pester all one’s friends asking them to ‘donate’ their measuring cups. I also have a couple of 1 inch mini baskets filled with Hydrotone that I let stand in about ¼ inch of water.

The Vandas are thriving (have about 20 left). The Cattleyas which were in worse shape, are down to about 4 survirors, but a couple of them have re-sprouted brand new growth.

I use RO water. Not really set up for flushing, so I try not to feed too often. Recently gave them a feeding of Orchid Love (fish and kelp emulsion) with some epsom salts. My recent experience at the Botanical Gardens (see my posts) make me believe that mineral build up should not be a problem. I do intend to flush come spring.

allla · #37 07-07-2014, 04:47 AM

I liev in France and have read about a SH method on bark just spectacular results here from a French lady. She is known all over the net in the French world of orchids; her name is Rejane.

Anyway, she potted phals in bark in glass containers with no holes. She waters by filling up the pot with water when the roots have dried and are white taking care not to reach the first leaves; frequency depends on temperature. You can easily go on holliday

Nexogen · #38 07-07-2014, 07:08 AM

If the air flow to the root system is stifled long enough, the gas exchange is compromised, and the roots die due to a combination of suffocation from the lack of oxygen, and poisoning by its own waste gases.

Quote:

Originally Posted by allla

I liev in France and have read about a SH method on bark just spectacular results here from a French lady. She is known all over the net in the French world of orchids; her name is Rejane.

Anyway, she potted phals in bark in glass containers with no holes. She waters by filling up the pot with water when the roots have dried and are white taking care not to reach the first leaves; frequency depends on temperature. You can easily go on holliday

ALToronto · #39 07-07-2014, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by allla

I liev in France and have read about a SH method on bark just spectacular results here from a French lady. She is known all over the net in the French world of orchids; her name is Rejane.

Anyway, she potted phals in bark in glass containers with no holes. She waters by filling up the pot with water when the roots have dried and are white taking care not to reach the first leaves; frequency depends on temperature. You can easily go on holliday

I cannot imagine this working the way you describe. In fact, it's probably the fastest way to kill plants. The only way I can grow in bark is in a clay pot, and even then it tends to rot the roots.

What you are describing is the vase method, and it works only with no media at all or with clay pellets or lava rock.

allla · #40 07-08-2014, 06:43 PM

well, what can I say... there are 70 pages of people trying out this method and succeeding. I could post pictures to proove my point it's just difficult for me right now because I have works in the house my neighbor flooded me and I am waiting for the plumber and some difficult repairs as water seeps in the walls.