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  #1  
Old 04-17-2013, 06:31 AM
MarijaSp MarijaSp is offline
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Phalaenopsis in SH picture and questions
Default Phalaenopsis in SH picture and questions

Hi everyone!
I'm a begginer phal owner, with this one plant.

it is in our family for 4 years now, but only flowered first two years. For one reason or another (human factor ) it was overwatered and the bark was decomposing.

Around 6 months ago, I decided to move it to SH. I realized it was in bad shape when I took it out of bark, actually it had only one healthy root. But it was growing new aerial roots, so I dipped it into rooting hormone and transplanted into LECA. I trimmed all the bad roots and one dry leaf.

6 months later I have two new leaves and lots of new roots, and I can see the one that was alive to begin with growing in the medium - it has now reached the reservoir.
The leaves look much less droopy.
I took it out onto the balcony, and I think it likes it there - the leaves are going up like rabbits ears Its warm out and the place is sunny in the morning.

Can you take a look and let me know what you think?
The picture is in my gallery - because I am not allowed to post pictures or URLs yet.

I am concerned about fertilizer - more, less? - I have no idea, and believe this is very important in SH because its the only source of nutrients.
I water every 3 or 4 days, top up the container and let it drain.
Also, is it smart to keep it on the balcony? I am worried that it might spike flower petals (I read about chilling the orchids, but didn't try it), and exhaust itself (it's still a reconvalescent plant after all ).

There are some spots on one of the leaves - but I am 99% sure that the source of this is my cat who likes to sneak up and nibble on plants...

I would really appreciate any advice!!! THANK YOU!
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2013, 08:51 AM
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Ray Ray is offline
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There was no image attached, but your explanation was excellent.

1) I now recommend about 50 ppm N at every watering, so if you divide 5.28 by the %N of the fertilizer, the result is the ml to use per liter of solution.

2) if the plant is growing well, and it has the energy to bloom, it will. There is no need to stop it. If it had tried while it was early in the recovery stage, that's a different matter, but it sounds like you're well past that now.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:26 AM
MarijaSp MarijaSp is offline
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Hi, thank you for the quick answer!
Yes, the picture is in my gallery because I don't have permission to attach to the board (5 posts needed).

The calculation for the fertilizer is then, if I have a 7% N solution: 5,28/7=0,75
So I put 3/4 of ML into 1L water.

This is great, I didn't know that!
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:17 PM
escualida escualida is offline
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Ray I have a question, in your post you're suggesting 50 ppm but on your site with the calculator the recommended amount is 125 ppm, may I ask why?
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:52 AM
RosieC RosieC is offline
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I think Ray has changed his recommendation in the last year or so, the 125ppm was his previous recomendation.

As I understand it, Ray correct me if I'm wrong, at 125ppm you need the monthly flush, but at 50ppm you can fertilise at every watering without a flush. That matches with what the UK seller of Rain Mix (the European equivalent of MSU) is saying, the mixing rate they recommend is low so it does not need flushing.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:46 PM
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Certainly, the lower the concentration, the less flushing is needed.

The 125 ppm N recommendation was the one published in the AOS article several years ago releasing the MSU fertilizer regimen, and it is the one I followed for quite a few years.

Now that I have begun to look into epiphyte nutrition a bit, I feel that a lower concentration is more appropriate if know feed at every watering as I do. That's why I now use 50 ppm N. if you feed weekly or less frequently, it pays to increase the concentration.

At 50 ppm N, the MSU RO or K-Lite formulas give you around 300-400 ppm total dissolved solids; and epiphyte in the jungle never sees more than about 25 ppm TDS, usually less.

Incidentally, Bill Argo, the PhD who developed the MSU formula told me that there was no scientific basis for the 125 ppm level, adding "We tried it, and it seemed to work."


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Old 04-18-2013, 01:56 PM
DelawareJim DelawareJim is offline
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For those looking for the picture, it's in her profile here:
http://www.orchidboard.com/co<br /> ...al-thread.html

It looks healthy to me.

Cheers.
Jim
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:26 AM
MarijaSp MarijaSp is offline
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Yeap, thanks JIm for posting the link for me

Well, since I don't remember to flush regularly anyway... I'll go for the 50ppm.
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