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02-26-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Mc
Ray, thank you for that clarification! I always thought it was the differential, not the lower by itself!
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There's also been a study from Michigan state university in 2006, that found the same thing, and that in fact it's the day temps that have a significant impact on spiking.
And I have the growers manual from a commercial Phal nursery in the Netherlands, that also apply overall lower temperatures, not just lower nights.
I was actually in the process of writing up a thread on this topic, because it's amazing how the same erroneous information is given time and time again!
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Camille
Completely orchid obsessed and loving every minute of it....
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02-26-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camille1585
The use of heat mats is recommended when establishing plants in S/H, as it stimulates faster root growth. It's also a good idea to use them with Phals in S/H in the winter because the evaporative cooling cools their roots a bit too much, they don't like that.
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Camille, Merci beaucoup.
You understood what i wanted to express in my initial post, at this stage I am not worried about spiking.
I repotted 2 phals into S/H medium yesterday, they had spikes, I cut the flower spikes off and placed them in a vase, and I placed them in hydroton because they were in their shipping pots and the medium wasn't that good, the medium was bark.
My main concern is to enhance root development, so I can get the phals established. because there wasn't any sign of new root growth...
Hence my initial question about the bottom heat from my bedroom's floor due to the hot water pipe.
I don't have an actual method to measure the temperature on the floor, but if I place my hand on the floor, the floor feels really hot without burning my hand and I can keep my hand on the floor comfortably for a long time. Heating pads are not available in my country, and I live in a Mediterranean country, and the weather is still cold.
I don't know what to do, maybe I'm worrying too much...
Thank you all for your help.
Last edited by empiref; 02-26-2012 at 11:48 AM..
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02-26-2012, 11:51 AM
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You don't have a thermometer of any type? Putting one in a pot with hydroton and water is the best way for you to know if it's not too warm for the plants. You can get probably get a thermometer quite cheaply, mine cost next to nothing.
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Camille
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02-26-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camille1585
You don't have a thermometer of any type? Putting one in a pot with hydroton and water is the best way for you to know if it's not too warm for the plants. You can get probably get a thermometer quite cheaply, mine cost next to nothing.
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Ok, I will do that.
What is the range that I should be looking for from the bottom heat?
I was thinking if the heat is too much, I can place some towels beneath the pots to minimize the heat on them.
Will measure the temp and get back to you.
Merci.
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02-26-2012, 12:26 PM
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I have no idea what the temperature in the pot is usually like when a heat mat is used. Once you know what the temperature is, then someone is bound to tell you if they are ok or not.
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Camille
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02-26-2012, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camille1585
I have no idea what the temperature in the pot is usually like when a heat mat is used. Once you know what the temperature is, then someone is bound to tell you if they are ok or not.
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The heat mats I carry boost the root zone temperature 10°-15°F over the ambient temperature.
That said, even if you grew at 80°, 95° is not so bad, especially when kept moist. Think about the climate the specific plants come from. For a phal, those temps are "tepid".
---------- Post added at 05:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------
Concerning the day/night versus average for phals, I plotted the average temperature for every day in 2011, and added a 14-day running average.
We hit our peak in late July, but the average didn't drop to 15-degrees lower until early October. That would suggest I'd start seeing spikes 6-8 weeks later - mid- to late November - and that's exactly what happened.
Also, of those 365 days, 222 of them saw min/max variation of 15 degrees or more, occurring in every month of the year.
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02-26-2012, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Concerning the day/night versus average for phals, I plotted the average temperature for every day in 2011, and added a 14-day running average.
We hit our peak in late July, but the average didn't drop to 15-degrees lower until early October. That would suggest I'd start seeing spikes 6-8 weeks later - mid- to late November - and that's exactly what happened.
Also, of those 365 days, 222 of them saw min/max variation of 15 degrees or more, occurring in every month of the year.
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That's something I've always meant to do. You confirm what I've observed though. a few years ago we had a blistering hot July, followed by a very cool August. I was getting spikes early october.
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Camille
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02-26-2012, 06:51 PM
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setting the record straight
Quote:
Originally Posted by orchidsarefun
the MIN and MAX temperatures your phals require. I only use a heating mat for seedlings and warm-loving species.
If you use a heating pad, 1) it may be too hot and 2) not give your phals a 10-15f difference in temp between night and day......
Orchidwiz has a free 30 day trial.....use this programme to figure out the cultivation requirements for your phal hybrids/species...
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As can be seen from my original post, I didn't refer to spiking at all. I was talking about the optimal growing conditions as set out in OrchidWiz and which would be a good general application for a home grower. And I do just fine giving my phals this temp differential whenever possible
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02-26-2012, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orchidsarefun
As can be seen from my original post, I didn't refer to spiking at all. I was talking about the optimal growing conditions as set out in OrchidWiz and which would be a good general application for a home grower. And I do just fine giving my phals this temp differential whenever possible
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Yes, but anytime people talk about 10-15F difference between day and night, it's nearly always in relation to blooming. So naturally it was assumed you were talking about spiking. But since the day-night temperature difference is not what triggers blooming, you don't really need it anyway.
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Camille
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02-26-2012, 07:12 PM
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assumptions are not good whenever and wherever they are made.
I have seen a couple made on this board that resulted in very snippy remarks.
Good thing I am such a nice person !
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