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  #21  
Old 10-20-2012, 11:07 AM
Rivka Rivka is offline
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My guess is that a phal might avoid the surface if it in a high evap area since they tend not to like their roots cold. As much as o would love to practice with all the NoID phals I have, I don't think they are a good Pick unless you live in a warm moist place so evap would be slower.

I'm getting a few of these in the next batch shipping out and finally a RO system to use for watering. I have two lower growing fast spreading plants picked out, though may take a few months to get moss started on them first.
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  #22  
Old 10-21-2012, 12:57 AM
katsucats katsucats is offline
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This phal has been on this olla for 2 or 3 months. It has grown new roots and 2 new flower spikes. But the roots grow just above the surface of the pot. They don't seem to want to attach.
You might be right. I think I have the same problem. I was hoping to let it grow out a bit, but seeing your plant, I may have to think of something else.

I don't have much experience with mounting so I don't know what normally causes plants to attach. My Baker culture sheet for Bulbophyllum medusae says I need plenty of rain and humidity all year round, but I may be able to let it dry a little bit in January. The medusae also needs higher temps, so I may also see if a heating mat under the olla helps.

The last thing I could try would be to get more sphag moss in there and derive more moisture from the sphag, refilling the olla less.
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  #23  
Old 12-23-2012, 01:10 AM
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AnonYMouse AnonYMouse is offline
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I'm getting an small (1L) olla for x-mas. I have to figure out what plant is going to work. Anyone have a rousing success yet?

I would like to stay away from phals and my preference would be a miniature. I could sacrifice a Neo.

I do have a small Masdie ayabacana though I think if this method works, the plant will get too big for the olla.
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Last edited by AnonYMouse; 12-23-2012 at 01:23 AM..
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  #24  
Old 12-23-2012, 09:56 AM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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I mounted 3 phals and 1 Cattleya violacea on ollas so far. I'm still experimenting but here are a few thoughts.
- Roots that existed when I mounted the orchids, continued to grow but refused to attach to the olla.
- But brand new, large roots formed and, after a few months, those new roots attached.
- I mist the roots every day, just like any other mounted orchid, because the plant won't get enough moisture from the pot until it develops a larger root system.
- The ollas bleed moisture all day long so there will always be water on the ground under the pot. I grow outdoors but indoors a saucer of some kind would be required.
- One advantage is that the whole pot is wet so there's good humidity around the plant.
- I mist the plant with a light dose of fertilizer once or twice a week.
- I don't grow Neos or Masdies but I would choose plants that grow as epiphytes or lithophytes in moist areas like along river banks and in swamps and bogs. Phals and some bifoliate cattleyas meet this requirement.
- I have no idea if it will work in the long run but it's fun to experiment with. Here's a picture of the first phal I mounted on an olla four months ago. It has two good large new roots that have attached to the pot.


Last edited by tucker85; 12-23-2012 at 12:33 PM..
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  #25  
Old 12-23-2012, 05:52 PM
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That is gorgeous! It makes me rethink my no-phal stance.

Thanks for all the tips.

My x-mas present isn't a irrigation olla so I guess the first thing for me is to see how much and how fast the olla will sweat. I think I will get one for irrigation after the holidays.

Did you notice a change in the rate of perspiration with the seasons? Or with the volume of water?
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  #26  
Old 12-23-2012, 06:45 PM
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That is gorgeous! It makes me rethink my no-phal stance.

Thanks for all the tips.

My x-mas present isn't a irrigation olla so I guess the first thing for me is to see how much and how fast the olla will sweat. I think I will get one for irrigation after the holidays.

Did you notice a change in the rate of perspiration with the seasons? Or with the volume of water?
No, the seasons didn't seem to matter but I live in South Florida so there isn't much difference in seasons. One thing you might want to think about. On one olla I painted pollyurathane on the bottom and about 1" up on the sides. I figured there's no reason for water bleeding through the bottom because no roots will ever be there. That olla loses water a little slower than the others so I may continue to do that on future mounts. Good luck.
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  #27  
Old 12-23-2012, 07:47 PM
Pilot Pilot is offline
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Tucker where did you get your ollas?
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  #28  
Old 12-23-2012, 08:19 PM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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Tucker where did you get your ollas?
I got them from Arizona Pottery. The picture I posted is a one gallon round olla. But the other two I have are 1 1/2 quart tall ollas. The 1 gallon round uses too much space on my orchid bench. The tall model is 11" tall and only about 4.5" wide. I can only mount small orchids on them because of the limited size. The leaves on the phal in the picture are almost touching the bench already. Lowes has something called pot feet that work well to keep the ollas from being knocked over.

I really don't recommend this method of growing. The ollas are expensive and cost a lot to ship. The water all runs out in about three days so I fill them almost daily. I need to mist fertilizer twice a week because there's no media to hold the fertilizer. I'm just doing it for the fun of trying.

Ollas - Ollas Watering System - pottery, pots and terra cotta
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  #29  
Old 01-04-2013, 01:50 PM
DTEguy DTEguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucker85 View Post
I got them from Arizona Pottery. The picture I posted is a one gallon round olla. But the other two I have are 1 1/2 quart tall ollas. The 1 gallon round uses too much space on my orchid bench. The tall model is 11" tall and only about 4.5" wide. I can only mount small orchids on them because of the limited size. The leaves on the phal in the picture are almost touching the bench already. Lowes has something called pot feet that work well to keep the ollas from being knocked over.

I really don't recommend this method of growing. The ollas are expensive and cost a lot to ship. The water all runs out in about three days so I fill them almost daily. I need to mist fertilizer twice a week because there's no media to hold the fertilizer. I'm just doing it for the fun of trying.

Ollas - Ollas Watering System - pottery, pots and terra cotta

That's a beautiful mount!

Just a suggestion for you to play around with. Have you tried covering the top of the olla? A (removable) air sealed cover on the top might result in less bleeding over time and evaporation.

How about a a heating pad, or heating rod for aquarium (expensive though) to control the temperature?
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  #30  
Old 01-04-2013, 02:00 PM
Rivka Rivka is offline
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are you filling it with some sort of pure water? looks great.

and in terms of not recommending it because it is finicky and cost a lot, this is orchid growing after all, when has that ever stopped us!!
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